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What is the next size up weight wise for Kanca? Personally I would suggest going a little bigger than 110# for a general use anvil. Shape plays a part as well as weight. I have a 125# JHM Journeyman I picked up used that has worked out nice, but 150# is a great all around size. Not saying you need it, as I do not know what type of work you want to do. My main anvil is a 260# Fisher because that is what my dad and I found when starting around 1977, and it was $250 at the time.  Other than some hammers we made, I could have gotten by with a smaller anvil over the years.

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Getting people off the net and talking to strangers in person is difficult and covid didn't help.  Holiday get togethers can be a place to spread the word to family and friends---got one coming up here in the USA!   I had the thermostat replaced in my office and was able to talk with a maintenance worker about smithing and had a new person at our church who is interested in smithing; so I'm still spreading the word even if I'm not really needing more stuff.

It seems the people least likely that often have the greatest return;  A Dr at our church knows I do smithing and so when she needed a place to store theatrical materials, (She directs to local community theater after work) and was talking to a friend of hers who said "We have a dry storage building you could use; but it's full of old blacksmithing junk we'd have to get cleared out..."  Guess whose name popped up?  Took a week to work the deal; but selling off what I didn't need paid for what I wanted to keep!

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Not show are the 3 powerhammers that were in their back yard, two blocks away from where I work!

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MY go to anvil is 125lbs and I have a 200lb Trenton within a few feet in the shop. My old RR rail anvil I used to pack along on field jobs weighed around 70lbs. and I used to do a lot of campfire smithing on it. That kit was the rail anvil, a pair of tongs (TPAAAP find before I'd heard of it) and a 2lb. drill hammer. I used a cold chisel or hack saw to cut. I typically forged a saddle devil early on and punches if necessary material allowing. 

Everything but my anvil, tongs and hammer were found steel or whatever. We used to melt aluminum cans in the fire for the heck of it and I sometimes made open face castings, usually a plaque to nail to a tree or bridge timber. 

My 125lb. Soderfors is what I call a "gracile" anvil, it has a thin waist and tail, the horn is long and generally narrow as well. The sweet spot is WAY wider than any hammer I could swing and she moves steel like butter. (cold butter, granted:ph34r:)

Frosty The Lucky.

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Yea, next size up is 165.

I need something moderately portable for the time being as the S. FL weather is not the best for leaving anything metal outside in, so I plan to take things in and out of the temperature controlled garage to the back yard (though the non controlled shed is WAY closer)

I also have an astronomy hobby and that means a few dobsonian telescopes sitting around. My 12 inch is far better to leverage than my smaller scopes and binocs, but it's 92lbs and awkward to move around. Thus it is not the one that gets taken out the most. The best sized scope is the one you use most so we tend to state.

I am taking that theory to getting my feet wet in home smithing as well, it has to be something I will comfortably move around and set up. In the future I may consider rebuilding the shed (though we have a 10x10 footprint max here) or will just keep my eye open for more space on a future home purchase.

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