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I Forge Iron

674 lb german double horn with dovetail tool slot


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I bought this anvil from a well known seller from Austria along with 5 others. The dovetail is virtually unusable due to some heavy use and maybe some abuse. I have NO intentions of doing any welding on it. My plan is to make a jig/slide for an angle grinder and use a cut off wheel to cut a new dovetail making small passes until I get it back to where it should be. Does anyone have any better ideas.  also the edge that has the torch marks I plan on grinding back and making a nice radius. And the spots on the side of the body are not weld beads! I believe it is remains of "filler rod" that was forge welded in to blend the seams. I'm sure Joey Vandersteeg would have a better idea if that's the case.20210610_212145.thumb.jpg.fc049bbba4f8246a0ab1050cc6826bcf.jpg

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Well this thing is a monster and I don't know of any shops around here that has a big enough mill. A shaper would be a good idea. I will do some research and see what shops have around my area. At one time we had quite the selection of machine shops but it seems like once a week I see an auction at a machine shop that recently closed its doors. I'm sure there is somewhere in Detroit that could pull it off but that's a 3 hr drive from me and I really don't wanna pay $1000 between shipping there and back and to have the work done. That would be more than I have into the anvil itself. 

Thank you for the suggestions!!!

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I'd hand file the dovetail.a triangular file with a safe edge would do it. You could even shape your triangular file to match the dovetail angle.

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I second Anvil's advice. It might be a little more labor intensive but you're less likely to make a mistake. If you're not patient enough for that a die grinder to get close and then hand filing would be my second choice. 

Pnut

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Instead of an angle grinder I would use a circular saw or a radial arm saw with a cutoff disc in it. More HP and no jig needed.  With the radial arm saw I would pull the saw forward, then push the cutoff disc into the anvil, not pull it through. This way there is less chance of it grabbing and pulling itself in. 

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Can you remove the table of your radial arm saw and see if there is a gap underneath it where the base of the anvil could be mounted?  My RAS has a fairly good sized "hole" that would gain around 4+ inches just putting the saw on a workbench and over 3' if I built a stand to make use of the gap.

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Different tools would be wedged into place depending on the smith's needs, especially if they were going to be doing a large number of repeated tasks. You can see blade forger Albert Craven using a series of blocks in sequence in this classic video from 1979:

 

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Fixtures would be specific to the smith and to the industry.  Sort of like asking what sort of dies would a drop forge have?  (A wrench maker would have different ones than an axe  maker for example.)  At that size it's definitely an "industrial" anvil!

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