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I Forge Iron

674 lb german double horn with dovetail tool slot


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I bought this anvil from a well known seller from Austria along with 5 others. The dovetail is virtually unusable due to some heavy use and maybe some abuse. I have NO intentions of doing any welding on it. My plan is to make a jig/slide for an angle grinder and use a cut off wheel to cut a new dovetail making small passes until I get it back to where it should be. Does anyone have any better ideas.  also the edge that has the torch marks I plan on grinding back and making a nice radius. And the spots on the side of the body are not weld beads! I believe it is remains of "filler rod" that was forge welded in to blend the seams. I'm sure Joey Vandersteeg would have a better idea if that's the case.20210610_212145.thumb.jpg.fc049bbba4f8246a0ab1050cc6826bcf.jpg

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Well this thing is a monster and I don't know of any shops around here that has a big enough mill. A shaper would be a good idea. I will do some research and see what shops have around my area. At one time we had quite the selection of machine shops but it seems like once a week I see an auction at a machine shop that recently closed its doors. I'm sure there is somewhere in Detroit that could pull it off but that's a 3 hr drive from me and I really don't wanna pay $1000 between shipping there and back and to have the work done. That would be more than I have into the anvil itself. 

Thank you for the suggestions!!!

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I second Anvil's advice. It might be a little more labor intensive but you're less likely to make a mistake. If you're not patient enough for that a die grinder to get close and then hand filing would be my second choice. 

Pnut

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Instead of an angle grinder I would use a circular saw or a radial arm saw with a cutoff disc in it. More HP and no jig needed.  With the radial arm saw I would pull the saw forward, then push the cutoff disc into the anvil, not pull it through. This way there is less chance of it grabbing and pulling itself in. 

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Keep at it with your hand files, not just a few licks. I had to do far more cleanup on the hardy hole of my last "Gunther" reface than you show. 30 minutes work maybe?

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Can you remove the table of your radial arm saw and see if there is a gap underneath it where the base of the anvil could be mounted?  My RAS has a fairly good sized "hole" that would gain around 4+ inches just putting the saw on a workbench and over 3' if I built a stand to make use of the gap.

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Different tools would be wedged into place depending on the smith's needs, especially if they were going to be doing a large number of repeated tasks. You can see blade forger Albert Craven using a series of blocks in sequence in this classic video from 1979:

 

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Fixtures would be specific to the smith and to the industry.  Sort of like asking what sort of dies would a drop forge have?  (A wrench maker would have different ones than an axe  maker for example.)  At that size it's definitely an "industrial" anvil!

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Cut off wheels, what's with everybody now days and cut off wheels?! This is NOT a situation for a cut off wheel there will be too much side contact and the way you're thinking of setting it up leaves no guard. 

If you want to do this safely you need to be using a GRINDING disk from the far side of the dovetail. A 9" Milwaukee disk grinder has TWO locations for a side handle mounting it solidly to a carrier / guide with two solid bolt points is really straight forward.

Short story, NO your idea is a bad one. It is unsafe and is not secure enough to do the job. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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I share Frosty's concern about side contact on a cut-off wheel, so my question would be: Are you dressing the sides of the slot, or are you cutting into the face to create a new and wider slot?

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A die grinder mounted vertically in a bracket (like a router base) could then slide in a jig to make the dovetail, like the metalworking equivalent of this:

Tom's Dresser: Sliding Dovetails, part 1 | Tom Buhl

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