Can this sway be repaired?

[Sploing]

I’ve been using my anvil for around 2 years now. It’s one I bought second hand without really knowing too much about it at the time.

It has no maker’s mark, a protrusion on the side I have been told was used for making carriage clips and comes in (as best I can tell) around the 360lb mark.

It has square handling holes at the waist and I think I can see a feint clone around the face making me suspect it’s wrought with a welded face.

unfortunateky it has about 2.5mm of sway at the worst point which is causing me a few issues getting things flat and when welding multiple bars together (I mostly make knives)

Can anybody tell me if it’s possible (or even worth) repairing this either by removing material or adding to the face with weld? (I know it’s not as simple as that)

 

many thanks 

[Glenn]

Your dip seems to be from 7 inches to 13 inches.  Easiest fix is to forge between 13 inches and 20 inches.

[Jonnytait]

That anvil face is in good condition, dont modify the face by grinding or welding it would probably just make things worse. Sway in an anvil is not a problem at all. The sway isnt stopping you from straightening bars, it does the opposite, it actually helps in getting bars straight

[ThomasPowers]

I'd say that if you need a dead flat surface for some tasks; a chunk of steel with a flat side will stand in for your anvil. 

I have an anvil with a similar sway and have welding a good portion of my body weight in billets on it with no problems; how is it causing you issues?---Of course I weld the billets going across the face and not down the length of the anvil face.

There is an accepted method for repair; the Gunther/Schuler method; but it has to be followed EXACTLY to get good results.  

That is a coach builder's anvil and would have been built in the traditional way with a relatively thin steel face forge welded to the WI body.  Any method that results in  thinning the steel face is BOGUS!  Treat anyone who suggests such a method as you would a person suggesting you remove your own appendix with a dull aluminum spoon dipped in kerosene!

[Glenn]

Another choice for a dead flat surface is to get a piece of thick steel, weld on a hardie post and a couple of side supports (to keep it straight with the length of the face) and be happy.  You can radius the flat surface edges in case you might need some size radius without removing metal from the anvil.

[George N. M.]

I agree with everyone else.  DO NOT attempt to "repair" this anvil.  You will almost certainly do more damage than improvement.  The anvil is actually in quite good shape and would be snapped up very quickly in most parts of the US if not priced through the ceiling.  Most smiths would be proud to have it in their shops and to work on it.  Any attempt at trying to correct that small a sway would be like trying to "gild the lily."

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

[anvil]

To answer your question. Repair it if you want. If you have never used an anvil with a level face, then you don't know what you'r missing 

Like was said above, sway does not preclude you from being able to level your work, but sway is NEVER a benefit. Being able to level on an anvil with sway is a work around for the sway, not an improvement.

Repairing your anvil is a personal choice. If I were to use this as a farrier, I'd repair it. If I were a hobby smith, prolly not, as a part time smith, maybe, but depends on my work. As a full time smith, I'd bring it up to new. Most don't realize that the process most often used when forging is to bring it back to level after every heat. If you don't do this, cumulative twist and edge bend will clean your clock. Basically after every heat and before my iron goes back in the fire, it's levelled on the face of the anvil and checked by eye.

Another matter is if you can weld and can follow instructions. If yes, then this is a fix that would take very little time and money. If not, then can your welder follow instructions? Lol, believe it or not, this can be a problem. Many welders believe they "know best" and won't follow the process nor use the proper rod.

Here's the tried and true method for refacing an anvil: 

https://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm

When repairing, always check level by checking the diagonals.

[Sploing]

Thanks everybody.

 

I think I’ll hold off on on “repairing” and get some 10mm plate with a hardy post for flattening.

 

Was I right about the construction by the way?

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Yes, you have the construction correct.