Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Recommended Posts

Finally got my new anvil mounted. Didn’t go exactly as planned but it’s feeling pretty solid. It’s a TFS 100. I almost went with the 100lb Holland which is probably a better anvil overall since mine is ductile iron but for my hobby needs I’m hoping this is going to more than adequate. I was really nervous about taking a grinder to it though. It’s probably hard to tell but I just barely removed the edges. They were very sharp to begin with. Not sure if should grind some more though. I hit the hardy hole with just a file and didn’t do anything to the pritchel hole yet. Not sure if I should on that either. Hopefully you guys can see the difference between the finished and unfinished sides. Seems a little odd that the pritchel is off to one side instead of centered also. 
 

13329431-1799-4415-BFC9-87D2DB806E9F.jpeg

439AB747-7720-49C1-B8EB-8BC30E7AD15F.jpeg

AA2F38CC-FE7C-4B6A-A77A-E72DC1E7504C.jpeg

19705447-215F-4AE4-BA01-69E1756F387F.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Try it and see if it's what you want. Remember it's easier to grind a little more off than it is to put some back. And yes, I can see which edge is rounded, that's a good start use it a while before taking more off. You probably will but do NOT rush it! Take your time and sneak up on what you like.

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been SLOWLY increasing the radius on the edges of my anvil for about a year now. I'll take a little off and use it for a few months then remove a little more. I'm getting close to where I want it I think. Remember you can always take more off. Putting material back is not as easy. 

Pnut

Link to post
Share on other sites

Anvil: I need a little clarification here. Did you mean 3/8" radius? 3/4" round stock is 3/8" radius and that would be darned wide for an edge. Perhaps you meant 3/16" radius making the edges the same curve as 3/8" sound stock?

It's easy to use the wrong term, I do it's why I edit my posts so often. I often type what I see, not what I mean. It's a simple typo but can make a BIG difference if taken as written. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is one reason to use a piece of metal over the anvil face (a radius plate) to practice a radius before you remove any metal from the anvil face, that can not be replaced.  The radius may change with different project.  

Blacksmiths working years or decades ago made different projects and modified their tools to make their life easier.  Industrial, ornamental, general, and farm blacksmiths each had their own way of doing things.  The size of the working stock is very different with each group, as is the size of the anvil used.

Who is providing the advice, from what time period, and for what project?  What size stock are they using, 1/2 inch or 2 inch or larger?  

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Frosty said:

I need a little clarification here

Thanks for picking that up. Lol, I'm going to have to draw it on my table to figure it out.

Link to post
Share on other sites

You bet. I didn't think you'd round an edge that much, the blunted horn on my Trenton isn't 3/4" dia. and the Soderfors is just less than 3/8".

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...