Rounding sharp edges on new anvil

[Pat Masterson]

Finally got my new anvil mounted. Didn’t go exactly as planned but it’s feeling pretty solid. It’s a TFS 100. I almost went with the 100lb Holland which is probably a better anvil overall since mine is ductile iron but for my hobby needs I’m hoping this is going to more than adequate. I was really nervous about taking a grinder to it though. It’s probably hard to tell but I just barely removed the edges. They were very sharp to begin with. Not sure if should grind some more though. I hit the hardy hole with just a file and didn’t do anything to the pritchel hole yet. Not sure if I should on that either. Hopefully you guys can see the difference between the finished and unfinished sides. Seems a little odd that the pritchel is off to one side instead of centered also. 
 

[ThomasPowers]

How rounded you need the edges is based on YOU, What YOU do and how YOU do it.  Use it and decide if you want more rounding.

[Pat Masterson]

Can’t wait to try it out tomorrow

[Frosty]

Try it and see if it's what you want. Remember it's easier to grind a little more off than it is to put some back. And yes, I can see which edge is rounded, that's a good start use it a while before taking more off. You probably will but do NOT rush it! Take your time and sneak up on what you like.

Frosty The Lucky.

[pnut]

I've been SLOWLY increasing the radius on the edges of my anvil for about a year now. I'll take a little off and use it for a few months then remove a little more. I'm getting close to where I want it I think. Remember you can always take more off. Putting material back is not as easy. 

Pnut

[anvil]

I radius my edges from 3/8" to zero from the step to a rough couple inches in front of your hardy hole. 

 

[Frosty]

Anvil: I need a little clarification here. Did you mean 3/8" radius? 3/4" round stock is 3/8" radius and that would be darned wide for an edge. Perhaps you meant 3/16" radius making the edges the same curve as 3/8" sound stock?

It's easy to use the wrong term, I do it's why I edit my posts so often. I often type what I see, not what I mean. It's a simple typo but can make a BIG difference if taken as written. 

Frosty The Lucky.

[Glenn]

This is one reason to use a piece of metal over the anvil face (a radius plate) to practice a radius before you remove any metal from the anvil face, that can not be replaced.  The radius may change with different project.  

Blacksmiths working years or decades ago made different projects and modified their tools to make their life easier.  Industrial, ornamental, general, and farm blacksmiths each had their own way of doing things.  The size of the working stock is very different with each group, as is the size of the anvil used.

Who is providing the advice, from what time period, and for what project?  What size stock are they using, 1/2 inch or 2 inch or larger?  

 

[anvil]

5 hours ago, Frosty said:

I need a little clarification here

Thanks for picking that up. Lol, I'm going to have to draw it on my table to figure it out.

[Frosty]

You bet. I didn't think you'd round an edge that much, the blunted horn on my Trenton isn't 3/4" dia. and the Soderfors is just less than 3/8".

Frosty The Lucky.

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

You can also do different sizes on one edge, it doesn't have to be only one.

[anvil]

I radius mine from 3/8" to zero. 3/8" at the step and tapered to zero just ahead of the hardy hole.