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So, I’m hand sanding a blade for the first time. So far so good, but the area around the plunge grind is giving me fits as far as making all the lines even. Any advice on how to finish out sanding around this area?

Thanks in advance. 

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I've never tried to mirror polish a blade before but I've sanded a lot of other things and to get into weird corners etc I use blocks with sandpaper attached. If I can't get into the corner with a block I use pin files. 

Pnut

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One trick I just picked up for sanding into tight corners is to use abrasive nail files, available for cheap from your local beauty supply store. These go up to about 600 grit, if memory serves.

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There isn't an "Easy" way that I know of.  Wrap the abrasive paper around something with a sharp corner, drag it down the face of the plunge, and then straight out towards the tip of the blade is one smooth movement.  Resist the urge to rub "up and down" the plunge line from spine to belly because it makes even more scratches to get out.  Plastic door shims make for a nice thing to wrap the paper around.

Sometimes I loose patience, and jamb the paper into the corner with a push stroke from further out on the blade.  This works pretty well too, but makes J swirls that you have to sand out later.

Because you are using such a small area of the paper, you have to keep moving to a fresh section every few strokes.

I find it helps to sand that area first.  Once you get it to where you like it for a particular grit, sand the rest of the blade to the same grit level.

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On 4/15/2021 at 10:01 AM, JHCC said:

One trick I just picked up for sanding into tight corners is to use abrasive nail files

Do you mean disposable emery boards or nail files like these? I've been using both for small stuff for years but never thought they'd be rigid enough for removing much metal. I use emery  boards frequently to clean oxidation from the electric ignition for the dryers at work. They work great for that. I never really considered using them to remove metal because of how flimsy they are. 

IMG_20210416_050517.jpg.f5434468268e8ff7cc27760882fdadd2.jpg

 

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The disposable emery boards. They are flexible and I wouldn't recommend them for large areas, but still good for smaller bits that are hard to reach in other ways. 

Fine sandpaper glued to tongue depressors also works.

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15 hours ago, pnut said:

. I use emery  boards frequently to clean oxidation from the electric ignition for the dryers at work

 

10 hours ago, Glenn said:

Ignition files work great, made of metal. 

Didn't know there was such a thing. I'll have to look into it. 

Pnut

 

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You may have heard the term adjusting or replacing the *points, plugs, and condenser* during a tune up.  

Ignition files were used to file the ignition breaker points, when cars  used breaker points in the ignition system.  

The Lost Art of Setting Ignition Points - 1164309

Understanding Breaker Point Ignition Systems - Gas Engine Magazine |  Preserving the History of Internal Combustion Engines

 

Look around and see who has a smile on their face. Ask them what BTDC and dwell means.

Sigh, the stuff your exposed to on a blacksmithing site. 

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I haven't had a vehicle with points since the early nineties. I think the last one I owned was a 84 El Camino. It's good to jog the memory now and again. My memory has been giving me some trouble the last few days. I've been forgetting or confusing one thing for another pretty often lately. Hmm.  

Pnut

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Just had to dress the points on an old tiller last week.  The last car I had to do that with was a '72 Spitfire, but I was still driving that car until 6 years ago.

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