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20lb propane tank build


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Fired the rigidizer to dry it. Had a little bit of trouble getting the burner to stay lit. I think it was angle problems.

Ran it at low for a bit then turned it up to get it red. Noticed the food coloring is gone? Also the blanket feels firmer but not rigid.

 

32 minutes ago, Frosty said:

If you're using Kastolite do NOT try to "DRY" it! It's a WATER SETTING refractory and will be MUCH  stronger.

Ahh, should I have left the blanket wet with rigidizer before the kastolite? I assumed 

Dry rigidizer & blanket then kastolite & letting it dry slowly 

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My above was for curing the Kastolite. You did right for the rigidizer. It just stiffens the blanket up it doesn't make it hard.

Don't worry you're doing it right. I may have misread something I didn't need to post the warning. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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1 hour ago, WRLD said:

Fired the rigidizer to dry it. Had a little bit of trouble getting the burner to stay lit. I think it was angle problems.

More likely it was all that super-heated steam, blowing the flame out. Just another curious non-problem :)

Don't forget to drill a tiny hole in the bottom of the shell, for steam and water to run out through, because your next layer will not be able to get rid of steam fast enough otherwise.

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That makes sense.

Kastolite 30 is probably going to take me a couple days.

I'm worried that my floor will give way if I flip it to coat the roof.  Would It be better if let it dry enough to flip it then proceed with the high humidity cure?

Or cure the floor then in a couple days do the roof?

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Let the Kastolite set before turning it over or it might sag. Once it's set it's pretty strong, no need to cure it before rolling it over, set up will be fine.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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I only got a photo in the beginning, kind of lack luster but progress! I was able to get above the rear exit as well. 

I'm considering building a fire in the shop tonight because the shop will probably be in the low 40s again and I'm a little nervous that it could get colder.

Looking now it appears I might have forgot to take my tape off before firing it earlier lol

PSX_20210409_162057.jpg

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Just roll it a little less than 90* and apply the Kastolite, once set roll it the same direction another 90* and apply it again, once set do the final side. That way the hard refractory will never be hanging from the kaowool without support from a hard refractory section. Make sense?

Frosty The Lucky.

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One more roll should about do it! I might do a couple patches on the floor where it's a little rough, *I didn't notice that yesterday.

I'm pretty excited to run this thing but I'm trying to not rush and do it right.   

PSX_20210410_123658.jpg

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Good, the only thing rushing is sure to do is make your mistakes permanent faster.

I think the only way to get a really smooth finish with Kastolite is by using a mold. Waxed linoleum works well. The best I managed was by patting it with a trowel, literally hammering the aggregate into the binder but it was only smoother, not smooth.

Looking good so far. I'm looking forward to seeing it all glowy yellow.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Just half of the burner port left to do! I went a little thicker on the floor/wall transition that the burner points at.

It's definitely quite a bit heftier than when I started.

Do you guys think I would be wasting my time setting up a thermocouple in this forge for heat treating?

I was thinking about using square tubing to place knives in when I heat treat. Maybe I could just have the thermocoupler in the square tubing instead of in the forge itself? Just typing my thoughts :lol:

 

 

 

PSX_20210410_161748.jpg

PSX_20210410_161830.jpg

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Hmmm, where did I put that 8 yro? Where to put the temp sensor (thermocouple) in the muffle with the blade or outside of it, in the forge. Remember to word your answer in the form of a question! 

ding ding ding ding - ding ding ding- ding ding ding ding - ding - ding ding- ding ding- ding - ding - ding. B)

Frosty The Lucky.

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36 minutes ago, Frosty said:

Hmmm, where did I put that 8 yro? Where to put the temp sensor (thermocouple) in the muffle with the blade or outside of it, in the forge. Remember to word your answer in the form of a question! 

ding ding ding ding - ding ding ding- ding ding ding ding - ding - ding ding- ding ding- ding - ding - ding. B)

Frosty The Lucky.

Will do! my bad.

I'll admit I wrote that in a haste and should have proof read it. 

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Oh NO, please do write in haste. I LOVE a good straight line and that was a good one. :)

I can laugh, I do it all the time, we all do.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Last bit of kastolite is setting. 

My shop has been around 86°F today. I've kept a damp towel over the forge, Everything seems to be curing pretty nicely! :D

 

PSX_20210411_144441.jpg

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That's a great temp, wet it and throw the towel IN the forge, and bag the forge in plastic. Once Kastolite sets you can't wash it off in a flowing creek, I didn't try a pressure washer but couldn't get it off with less than hammer and chisel. Seriously, I couldn't get it to clean out of a cut down plastic milk jug I used to mix it.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Sort of depends what type(s) of heat treating you want to do.---I wouldn't suggest heating D2 for hardening in that or using it to draw temper on most low alloy steels and definitely NOT for Cryo quenching!  For hardening simple steels that have been done for centuries with just the eyes of the smith to judge temp; it should be ok.

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My wood carving instructor had the students make what he called hook knives as part of the curriculum. They had short double edged blades with points that were rolled up nearly 180 degrees for hand carving Indian bowls, and were made with D2 steel. He then sent them to another department for heat treatment in a commercial kiln (electric) several of them were ruined in the attempt. I would not heat treat in a gas oven...

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I fired the forge on low for a couple minutes and then let it cool this morning.

 Now later in the evening I fired and ran it for a bit. 

PSX_20210412_161131.thumb.jpg.d96ef5fdf24a2c6fd6605d0a1fd5c50f.jpg

PSX_20210412_160243.thumb.jpg.0f545c692d50b98516173e5fc16ab33b.jpg

 

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If it's lined with Kastolite the multiple heat cure doesn't improve anything. Kastolite works best with the 100% humidity cure. As far as the hard refractory is concerned it's ready to go to work. IF it's Kastolite.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Noted. Thanks Frosty.

 

9 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Sort of depends what type(s) of heat treating you want to do

I plan to use 1084 steel

 

 

 

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Light orange in a forge with both ends wide open should heat to yellow-white heat when the openings have baffles and the refractory is painted with a heat reflective coating. Congratulations :)

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So you plan to use 1084 steel in it and make it as soft as possible?  Spheroidal annealing is a heat treat!  Or will you be filling the forge with liquid nitrogen and working on removing retained austenite---cryo quenching is a heat treat!   Or will it never go above 500 degF because you are drawing temper on simple steels---tempering is a heat treat.   

Perhaps you could answer the question of what types of heat treating you want to do in it?

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54 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

Perhaps you could answer the question of what types of heat treating you want to do in it?

My apologies.. I completely misread your last post.

I plan to harden 1084 in the forge and then temper it in an oven.

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