WRLD Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 I started this tank build a couple days ago and wanted somewhere to keep the progress, And maybe get some tips. I ordered 20lbs of kast-o-lite 30, 24x48 2400 degree kaowool, Quart fumed silica. I have an atlas 100k burner that I'm hoping to use on this. I started with an old 20lb tank that I knew was empty, then removed the valve and then filled with water + soap for the night Day 2 I cut the rough holes and then in the fire it went to burn the paint off Day 3 The remaining paint came off pretty easily I moved onto cutting the face off, I'll either hinge or weld it back up after the blanket is inside I also added some maybe? temporary legs to get it standing up by itself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Looks like you are well on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Before you weld the end back on, consider that the liner is a wear item, it WILL need replacement in time. Leaving easy access is a good thing. Looking good so far, keep us in the loop please. Next time you want to flush a propane tank use about 1/4c chlorox bleach per gallon of water to remove the mercaptan oils and eliminate chance of igniting anything on the inside. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRLD Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 (edited) I was already pretty set on hinging it so hearing that pretty much made up my mind. I'll be figuring that out tomorrow while I wait on the kaowool to get here. Thank you, I've been lurking for awhile and I'm happy to finally have a post started here. Shoooot.. I briefly looked for the "proper" way to make a tank safe and got a bunch of different information so I'm glad to finally know the correct way Edited April 5, 2021 by Mod30 Remove excessive quote. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 While hinging the end has advantages like access to the full width of the chamber there are other ways to make it easily accessible for maintenance. I like the idea of welding 3-4 tabs on the cap or body and using self tapping screws to secure them. A witness mark or pin keeps alignment when you put it back together. Getting hinges aligned isn't too hard but sometimes they or the tank will warp and it gets wracked. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Two tabs made from flat bar and pinned together with 1/4" thread is pretty much immune from the warping problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRLD Posted April 6, 2021 Author Share Posted April 6, 2021 I ended up liking the tab idea better than hinging or welding it back up. I'm not sure if I'll pin or screw it. I kind of like the idea of just tacking the tabs to the body but we'll see. Found a random piece of steel in the ground for the rear table. Still trying to source something for the front My wife said it looks like a beaver.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 Screw and nuts work just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRLD Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 Working on the burner hole today. In my research I've gathered the burner hole should be 2" from TDC, But I'm not sure as far as centering with a single burner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 2" from TDC, and aimed at the near side of the floor is my favorite position. Over time, I have come to appreciate ten or two o'clock and aimed at the far side of the floor; either way gives acceptable results, and are mainly a personal choice; in other words, which position prefer to deal with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 I think they wanted to know where to put it along the long axis of the forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRLD Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 31 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said: I think they wanted to know where to put it along the long axis of the forge. Yes this is what I was looking for. But I'm still happy to have that info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRLD Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 Little bit if progress on the front platform. From what I think I understand my burner should be 2" from TDC and aimed at the nearest edge of the floor which would be like the first photo. Correct? The next thing I'm not 100% sure on is where my burner hole should be on the length of the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 If you're like me you might want to round the corners of the front table. Anytime I have a sharp square corner, I'm sure to come away bleeding and need band aids. On our single burner that's where I located front to back and it works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRLD Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 (edited) At least I'll be able to say my blood sweat and tears go into every thing I forge.. haha thats a good idea I could imagine jabbing myself in the moment. Ahh I figured that looked about right, thank you. Nice looking forge by the way. Does the captured brick setup work well? I thought about incorporating something similar on mine just so the bricks can't fall over as easy. Edited April 8, 2021 by Mod30 Remove excessive quote. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 8, 2021 Share Posted April 8, 2021 The sliding doors work a treat, and can be adjusted while the forge is running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted April 8, 2021 Share Posted April 8, 2021 Well, maybe ten o'clock looks even better than nine o'clock Yes, you have it right in aiming for the far side of the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRLD Posted April 9, 2021 Author Share Posted April 9, 2021 Made some progress today. Little worried that I forgot to fire the forge before putting the 2nd layer of kaowool after rigidizing. Should I be? I remember reading that somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 No big deal; I prefer firing the first layer before installing the second, but it isn't a major miss step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRLD Posted April 9, 2021 Author Share Posted April 9, 2021 ahh, that's a relief. Hopefully it will dry by morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 If you put a lighted 100 wt incandescent light inside, it will be dry in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRLD Posted April 9, 2021 Author Share Posted April 9, 2021 yeah? i might just walk back over to the shop to do that. the low for tonight is 40 and my shop doesn't have a fire going so i probably should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 I just use the burner to fire it, even when still wet. You need to keep in mind that these layers are in no danger of building up steam; it flows out between the fibers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRLD Posted April 9, 2021 Author Share Posted April 9, 2021 Well that works in my favor, I should be able to get the refactory started today then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 If you're using Kastolite do NOT try to "DRY" it! It's a WATER SETTING refractory and will be MUCH stronger and heat resistant if you keep it in 100% humidity for at least 24 hours after setting. If it's Kastolite put a wet towel in the chamber, close the whole forge in a plastic garbage bag and walk away from it for a couple days at low temps like 40f. Do NOT let it freeze until after it's cured though. Don't worry if you force dried and heat cured it though Kastolite is formulated to tolerate that method, it's just not the best way to cure it. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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