Anvil hold-down treadle

[Owen Hinsman]

I recently came across this illustration in Practical Blacksmithing. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t think that this treadle linkage would work. 

[Chelonian]

I think that in the middle of the side where treadle is there is a pivot for the treadle, so that you step on the farther away portion. Like if you were standing with the horn of the anvil to the right and used your left foot. That way it seems like it would work.

[JHCC]

No, that will work. There's a pivot in the middle of the pedal at D(? It's hard to read), so when you push down on the front of the pedal at C, the back of the pedal rises. That pushes up the linkage E, which in turn pushes up the back of the hold-down F, thus pushing the top end of F downward.

I believe that this is intended to be on the back of the anvil stand, so that the user would be standing on the far side (with the horn on their right) and pushing down on the pedal with their left foot.

One detail of note is that the lower arm of F is outside the line of the stand, so that the hold-down can be flipped out of the way when not in use.

[George N. M.]

I agree with John.  IMO the key is to realize that there is a pivot at D and that the downward force is exerted at C rather than on the piece of wood on the side of the anvil stand.  At first examination I made the same assumption as Owen but after closer examination and reading John's analysis I see my initial misunderstanding.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand." 

[Owen Hinsman]

Thank you guys. I see how there’s a pivot at D now. I might just build one of these!

[JHCC]

Let us know how it works out!

One improvement I might suggest would be to consider where the hold-down itself contacts the workpiece.  It seems to me that as shown it will only do so across its entire length if the latter is one specific thickness. Anything else, and it will only contact at either the front or the back edge. Something to accommodate a variety of thicknesses is probably a good idea.

(Now I'm starting to think about a spring-loaded variant that I could use under the nodding donkey, since one foot on the hold-down and one on the treadle wouldn't work too well!)

[anvil]

Too many moving parts.  And my gut feeling is that there would not be enough force to hold your work secure. And i believe the force would not be equal across the face of the anvil.

Lol, all is see is boogers and traps all around my primary workspsce.

[ThomasPowers]

Well it probably worked for what that user wanted to do and may be terrible for what another smith does.  Right now my  drive  chain with a 1/2" sq stock bar on the end is working fine for what I do.  I can adjust the length in play to keep my stomping foot close to the shop floor when my root is on the bar.  Improvised from what I had on hand.

[Michael]

Another 'junk on hand' hold down. Motorcycle chain nailed to the stump on the front, the cast iron weight hangs just above the ground on the other side. Chain usually at the step or back of the horn when not in use.  Square tube is my "bridge" fixture for fork tines and the like. The foot of chain across the face WAS painted red in the last incarnation of this hold down, haven't had to on this one, the recollection of grabbing too close to the hot part is still fresh in memory.

[anvil]

Lol, there is a lot of good info in  Richardsons book, but, being the forunner of internet blacksmithing information, you have to take a lot with a grain of salt, as you have said many times and in a far less flattering manner, Thomas. I have no doubt that much  info there comes from what we today call those who gain their knowledge via youtube. With all the friction losses and sloppy joinery from far too many mechanical direction changes in this holddown i put it in that catagory. Not to menrion all the buggers and traps that are cluttering up the primary workspace when not in use. Lol, i do remember this particular article and came to this conclusion years ago.

Rube Goldburg would be proud!