Jimmies Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 I actually made the forge and burner a while back (two years).... Bought the anvil at the same time... Then kids and work got in the way. I'm hoping to find the time to get this hobby moving but I'd like to start with the burner and making sure it is setup fairly well. I bought an Amal burner after not getting on well with a homemade version. Pics attached and any thoughts greatly appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 Your best move now would be to look into heat resistant coatings, both to raise forge temperature, and to protect its bricks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmies Posted December 27, 2020 Author Share Posted December 27, 2020 Hello Mikey At present the forge gets to 1010 deg C at an indicated 5psi....then the plastic at the near end of the probe gets soft. The gauge will go well over 20psi fully open so I would imagine that it will get hot enough.... I'm nowhere near thinking about forge welding anyway. What heat resistant coatings are you referring to and what would it do for me. If I remember right there are two wraps of 1 inch kaol wool with refractory cement... It is very hard and stable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 There are several different kinds to choose from, but Plistex leads to pack for price and practicality. The first thing it will do for you is to protect the other refractory surfaces. including the cement that you should not have used. The second thin it will do is allow you to use less fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmies Posted December 27, 2020 Author Share Posted December 27, 2020 What should I have used instead of refractory cement... From what I remember that was the suggested covering for kaolwool I'm happy to resolve issues and appreciate any help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 No; none of us ever recommend refractory cement as anything more than brick mortar, which is what it was designed for. It makes a very jpoor flame surmace. But, Plistex may help it to last a lot longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmies Posted December 27, 2020 Author Share Posted December 27, 2020 OK, cheers Mikey... What should be used on top of kaolwool? I will be looking to build a smaller forge as this one is quite big for 1 burner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmies Posted December 27, 2020 Author Share Posted December 27, 2020 Apologies... I've checked the tub and it is castable refractory.... Is that a better/correct covering for kaolwool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 Yes it is what is recommended and a coating of an IR-re radiator like Plistix will help protect it and make a big difference in the forge heat and fuel consumption. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmies Posted December 28, 2020 Author Share Posted December 28, 2020 I can't find plistex or itc at all here in the UK online Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 I feel certain that you can find simple kiln wash, if nothing better. There was a knife maker forum, which I think was out of London; if they are still around, they would be my first choice to ask questions about where to locate refractory supplies. There are several different coatings that can do the job for you. You can do a search on this group to find out what is out there, and then search locally for them. You should find all of these 'exotic' substances wherever pottery supplies are sold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 If you can't find a kiln wash you can use bentonite mixed with fresh water to the consistency of latex paint. Be patient bentonite is weird stuff and it may take a couple days to mix lump free. It also takes quite a while to dry, a light bulb in the chamber will speed it up. Apply any kiln wash in thin coats or it's more likely to shrink check (crack) as it dries and flake off with thermal cycling. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmies Posted December 29, 2020 Author Share Posted December 29, 2020 Thanks Both....I'll get hunting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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