Experimental Jig for Sharpening Tungsten Electrodes

[Steamboat]

“Changes have been made to the design described in this post. Please refer to a later post below for an update.”

I haven't posted here on IFI for quite some time, as I've been absolutely swamped with other projects and tasks like major home restoration work, property issues, a big archaeology excavation project, and other things that I won't bore everyone with. I'm finally getting back to the process of setting up a new workshop at home on a limited budget, and I'm making decent progress, although trying to fit all of my equipment into a relatively small space and still have enough room to work is pretty challenging. I decided to start posting a few of the things that I've been doing or making in the shop. I might also post this particular item on weldingweb.com.

Yesterday I fabricated a bench grinder attachment/jig for sharpening tungsten electrodes for my TIG welder. Previously, I had been sharpening electrodes manually on a 12-inch disc sander, which worked OK, but this little jig helps me quickly produce nice consistent results. I had an old Craftsman bench grinder that was gathering dust, so I decided to dedicate one side of the grinder exclusively to sharpening electrodes, thus avoiding contaminating the tungsten with other materials. I installed a 6-inch diamond wheel (about 34 US dollars) on the grinder, using a bronze bushing to adapt the wheel's 1-inch bore to the 1/2-inch shaft. I cut the mounting plate out of 1/4-inch mild steel plate, and for the electrode guide, I drilled holes in a piece of 3/4" x 3/4" square bar stock for 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8-inch electrodes, which are about the only sizes that I use with my TIG welder, and drilled and tapped a hole for the tightening knob.

With this jig I can set the electrode at any angle relative to the wheel to produce any angle of tapered point that I want. Also, the grinding marks produced by this setup are aligned WITH the electrode (and NOT spiraled or perpendicular to the electrode), which helps produce a steadier, more consistent arc. I doubt that I will ever wear out this diamond wheel by grinding electrodes, but if by some chance any tracks should become worn into the wheel's diamond surface, it's a simple matter to either add or subtract a washer to move the electrode guide a bit to the right or left over an unused portion of the surface.

In hindsight, I think I would have gone with a somewhat finer grit (this wheel is 120 grit), but as long as I use a light touch when grinding, it quickly produces "relatively" smooth results, and since the grinding striations are oriented correctly (aligned with the electrode), I'm not overly concerned about getting it super smooth. When using this jig, I rotate the electrode ONLY with my fingers, rather than chucking the electrode in a drill, as I believe there is a danger of bending or breaking the electrode if any kind of powered drill is used to spin the electrode in the electrode guide.

Note: I do NOT grind thoriated tungsten electrodes because I do not want to deal with the hazard of radioactive dust. I'm happy to stay with other types of tungsten (ceriated, lanthanated, E3, etc.) and avoid thoriated electrodes altogether.

As usual, here's my disclaimer: The device described here is an experimental, prototype device. I do not warrant the safety, efficacy, or applicability of the device I have described here. Use this design or device entirely at your own risk. Use all appropriate personal protective gear when using this or other tools.

Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.

Cheers,

Al (Steamboat)

 

“Changes have been made to the design described in this post. Please refer to a later post below for an update.”

 

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Looks like it will work very well and a lot better than free handing it.

[Steamboat]

Thanks. So far, it's working great, and I haven't messed up any electrodes (yet). I had about 40 electrodes that needed sharpening, which was a good excuse to make the jig. The diamond wheel cuts quite quickly, so a light touch is needed, but it's easy to get the hang of it.

Al (Steamboat)

Edited December 26, 2020 by Mod30
Remove excessive quote.

[Steamboat]

“Updated material to Experimental Jig for Sharpening Tungsten Electrodes”

 

Revision 1. I have made some changes to the original version of this device. As mentioned, this is an experimental prototype device. It is a work in progress and not in its final form, so at this point, I do not recommend building a copy of it. As I experiment with it and discover new problems or shortcomings, I will try to improve the device with safety, efficiency, and ease-of-use in mind. Please note that I am not a professional in any of the fields related to developing this device, and I am open to suggestions to improve my design.

In this revision, I made the following changes:

I replaced the knob used for tightening/locking the position of the electrode guide with a hex-head bolt that can be securely tightened with a wrench.

Rationale: This will allow the electrode guide to be locked more tightly and securely in position and make it less likely to move while in use.

I connected an arm to the electrode guide and added stops to limit the angular range of the electrode guide to PREVENT electrodes from being pointed downward in the direction of wheel rotation. This device is designed for grinding electrodes in the general orientation that I depicted in the photo in the original post and also below (i.e., against the rotation of the wheel).

Rationale: Because this device employs an ELECTRODE GUIDE, if one were to grind an electrode with the tip pointing downward in the same direction of the wheel’s rotation, the wheel could “grab” the electrode and pull it down through the electrode guide, which could jam the electrode against the wheel, destroy the electrode, and possibly even send pieces of the electrode flying through the air, which could be dangerous. This modification is intended to prevent that situation.

The electrode angle relative to the wheel is limited to the range shown in the photos below. This setup prevents the electrode from being pointed downward beyond the point where it is perpendicular to the surface of the wheel. In other words, it prevents the electrode from being pointed in the direction of wheel rotation.

FYI, here is an informational (not sales) link to a Miller Welding document available at the time of this post, which includes some basic information on electrode preparation and grinding (see the bottom of page 8):

https://www.millerwelds.com/-/media/miller-electric/files/pdf/resources/gtawbook.pdf

Warning: It is very important to try to avoid kickback when grinding electrodes. Before grinding an electrode, I make sure the diamond wheel is running true and that the surface is smooth and free of any irregularities that might increase the chance of kickback. I feed the electrode through the electrode guide into the wheel carefully, rotating it against the wheel with light pressure, while keeping myself clear of the opposite end of the electrode. While I have not "yet" experienced any kickback when using this prototype device, to be on the safe side, one should always assume that it is a possibility, and of course one should always wear eye protection and view the grinding process through the safety shield on the bench grinder.

I have only tried this device with a diamond wheel. I do not have any plans at this time to try it with other types of abrasive wheels, such as aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, etc., as there are too many variables to deal with, and I don't believe that other abrasive wheels would last as long as diamond wheels for grinding tungsten electrodes.

Possible upcoming changes in future revisions:

• I might modify the shape of the electrode guide and install it even closer to the grinding wheel. I think that this might add more stability to the electrode during grinding, since less of the electrode would be protruding from the guide. I don't know if it would have any effect on reducing the chance of kickback.

• A scale could be etched on the mounting plate, and the arm could be used as a pointer to indicate favorite grinding angles, which could save adjustment time.

Again, this prototype device is a work in progress and not in its final form. There may still be bugs to work out. I expect to be making a number of further changes and fixing issues as they come up. I am sharing the development process on the IFI forum because I am not a professional in any of the applicable technical areas, and I would like to get comments from forum members that could help me improve this device.

Disclaimer: The device described here is an experimental, prototype device. I do not warrant the safety, efficacy, or applicability of the device described here. Any use of this design or device is entirely at your own risk. Use all appropriate personal protective gear when using this or other tools.

This post is not intended to instruct the reader in how to grind tungsten electrodes. It is only the description of an experimental prototype device in its early development stages.

Thanks for reading, and please check back for further updates. You are welcome to PM me if you have any questions or comments you'd like to discuss offline.

Al (Steamboat)

[Steamboat]

Updated material to "Experimental Jig for Sharpening Tungsten Electrodes”

Revision 2. In this revision I moved the electrode guide pivot closer to the wheel and also drilled the guide holes closer to the wheel. These changes place the electrode closer to the wheel surface and reduce the distance that the electrode extends past the electrode guide (as shown below). One person contacted me with a similar suggestion. I think these changes could make grinding results more consistent. I do not know what effect these changes might have on the possibility of kickback or breakage. I haven't experienced any problems yet, but I haven't ground very many electrodes with the different versions of this device, and there is always a chance of electrode breakage or kickback. I would have to do a lot more testing before I would feel confident about the device's safety and effectiveness.

I also installed a clear polycarbonate shield over the electrode grinding area (as shown below). I thought this might offer some additional protection in the event of damage occurring to the electrode. I attached the shield with thumbscrews for easy removal for cleaning or replacement. Even when using the bench grinder's original polycarbonate shield along with the new shield that I installed, I still wear eye protection when grinding electrodes (or anything else for that matter), as well as keeping myself clear of the end of the electrode when feeding it into the grinder.

As stated before, this is an experimental prototype and a work in progress, so I do NOT recommend copying this design. More changes will probably be upcoming, if or when time permits me to do further experimenting and testing. Feel free to PM me or leave a comment.

Disclaimer: The device described here is an experimental, prototype device. I do not warrant the safety, efficacy, or applicability of the device described here. Any use of this design or device is entirely at your own risk. Use all appropriate personal protective gear when using this or other tools.

This post is not intended to be instructions for grinding tungsten electrodes. It is only a description of an experimental prototype device in its early development stages.

Disclaimer: The device described here is an experimental, prototype device. I do not warrant the safety, efficacy, or applicability of the device described here. Any use of this design or device is entirely at your own risk. Use all appropriate personal protective gear when using this or other tools.

Thanks for reading, and please check back for further updates. Please PM me if you have any questions or comments you'd like to discuss offline.

Al (Steamboat)

[Deimos]

I was thought that it was safer to place the electrode on the top of the grinder, and not the bottom. Since it could get launched into your finger/leg this way (and one of my classmates found that out the hard/panful way.)

[Steamboat]

Deimos, thanks for your feedback. I assume that you are talking about how an electrode is oriented relative to the rotation direction of the grinding wheel during the grinding process.

Most welders that I've observed grind tungsten electrodes pointing against the rotation of a bench grinder wheel, and most of the instructional material (that I've seen) also shows it done that way (see example links below). I think that visibility might be one factor in the choice of direction, and there could be some other factors involved.

• Bottom of page 8 in this document from Miller Welders: https://www.millerwelds.com/-/media/miller-electric/files/pdf/resources/gtawbook.pdf
• At about 2:36 into this video from Miller Welders: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLU6oZnDxBM
• Page 2 of this document: https://www.arc-zone.com/blog/weldlikeapro/pdf/GrindingTungsten.pdf
• On the third page of this article: https://diamondground.com/WinningPreparation.pdf

However, I personally do not like to grind electrodes manually (i.e., hand-held, without an electrode guide of any kind). For one thing, when grinding against the direction of wheel rotation, I've observed that the danger of electrode breakage and kickback increases as you increase the electrode point angle, since it changes the geometry between the wheel and the electrode. When manually grinding against the wheel rotation, I have only felt reasonably safe when grinding long, sharp low-angle points, like maybe 20 degrees, with the electrode almost tangential to the wheel. I wanted to see if I could come up with a single electrode guide device that would allow me to produce consistent results at any given point angle, while only having to make one adjustment, and with good visibility for good control. Hence my experimenting with this prototype. I haven't fully met that goal yet, but I think that I at least have a good starting point. There are a number of existing electrode grinding devices on the market at a wide range of prices, but I wanted to see if I could build a decent one on a shoestring budget...and I like to build stuff, so the time invested in not an issue.

My current experimental idea is that by employing an electrode guide and reducing the distance between the electrode guide and the grinding wheel surface (i.e., allowing very little of the electrode to protrude from the electrode guide), the electrode might be better supported, and with the shorter electrode extension, it seemed to me that the wheel would have less leverage to try deflect the electrode, thus reducing the chance of breakage and/or kickback, even though it would not completely eliminate the possibility of breakage or kickback. Does that sound correct? In the photos below, you can see that only about 5/8” (16mm) of the electrode extends from the guide when grinding a 20-degree point, and only about 3/16” (about 4.8mm) of the electrode extends from the guide when grinding a 45-degree point. Also, my prototype idea uses a diamond wheel, which should maintain a relatively smooth surface with normal use, and it cuts fast, so only very light pressure is required to grind the electrode tips, which I "think" should equate to less heat and stress to the electrodes. Again, that’s just my idea, and I’m only an amateur who likes to build things and get feedback from people who know more than I do. I'm not a professional in any related area, and I will not guarantee the safety of this device in any way.

To try to further reduce the chance of breakage or kickback, I do the following:

• I check the surface of the wheel for damage, making sure it's still smooth.
• I give the wheel a spin and make sure it’s running true.
• I adjust the electrode guide to the desired angle and tighten it securely before turning the grinder on.
• I feed the electrode in slowly and gently, applying only very light pressure while rotating the electrode.

Important: I wear personal eye and face protection in addition to viewing the grinding through the polycarbonate shield on the grinder and the shield on my prototype attachment. I also wear gloves, my leather blacksmithing apron, and a dust mask, and avoid having any part of my hands or body directly behind the end of the electrode in case of kickback. I think I previously mentioned that I don't grind thoriated electrodes.

Kickback is always a possibility, whether you are grinding an electrode on a wheel or shaping a knife blade on a belt grinder. However, so far, I’ve ground points to varying angles on several dozen electrodes using the latest revision of the prototype device, without yet experiencing any kickback or breakage, but that’s still a very small test sample size, so I will not guarantee that kickback or breakage can't happen.

Deimos, you also might want to re-read my mention in an earlier post in this thread regarding why I added stops to the electrode guide to prevent electrodes from being ground pointing downward through the guide in the direction of wheel rotation.

I'll probably be making many more changes to this prototype in the future, as time and opportunities for experimentation/testing allows. As I already mentioned, this experimental prototype is a work in progress, and I do NOT recommend that anyone copies and uses this device at this time.

Disclaimer: The device described here is an experimental, prototype device. I do not warrant the safety, efficacy, or applicability of the device described here. Any use of this design or device is entirely at your own risk. Use all appropriate personal protective gear when using this or other tools. This post is not intended to serve as instructions for grinding tungsten electrodes. It is only a description of an experimental prototype device in its early development stages.

Thanks for your feedback.

Al (Steamboat)

[Deimos]

I was indeed talking about the orientation of the electrode, but then again, we used to sharpen then by hand on a belt grinder (with a very coarse grit). So all you had was the normal tool rest, because of the way you have to rotate the electrode it was very easy for it to get caught by the belt and launched in the direction the belt was moving, aka your leg or finger. This is why they told us to stand next to and behind the belt grinder and put the electrode on the top of the grinder (where the spark shield is) and sharpen it that way, if by any chance it got caught then it would just hit the ground. Also a think to keep in mind about that, we used to sharpen them on both sides, so they would go very deep into the squishy bits. (saw people where it got all the way to the femur).

Now back to your design, I actually really like it, and I think it is 10 times safer then just doing it by hand. And now you got me thinking about upgrading it so you could turn the electrode by using a handle or something.

[Scott NC]

Hi Steamboat.  I think Deimos has suggested an idea that addresses your kickback and flying electrode concerns very well.  A knob on the end of the electrode secured by a setscrew would be a great idea.  Or an integrated turning handle of some sort.  Perhaps if you have many to do, you could figure out some sort of tiny camlock apparatus to secure the electrode instead of a set screw.  Just throwing somethings at the wall to see if they stick.  Have you ever thought of drill bit sharpening attachments?  Give Drill Doctor a run for it's money.

[Steamboat]

Deimos and Nodebt, I agree with both of you that some kind of handle/knob/holder for the electrode is worth investigating. The holder could act sort of like a larger-diameter "end" to the electrode, which could be safer than a bare electrode in the event of a possible kickback. Of course there's still the chance that an electrode might break into pieces if kicked back. Perhaps a holder could be used that contains (encapsulates) the entire electrode except the portion extending through the electrode guide. I've seen a couple of holders that are reminiscent of an extra-long pin vise, with separate collets for different electrode sizes, and yet small enough in diameter that one could twirl it easily and quickly with gloved fingers while grinding the point. I may order one of those and try it out.

By the way, regarding your suggestion, I have a Drill Doctor, which has worked well for drill bits, and I think I also have a drill bit sharpening attachment for a bench grinder in a drawer somewhere. I've never looked into modifying those for other purposes, but who knows?

The nice thing about using a diamond wheel on a bench grinder is that the grinding marks run parallel to the electrode, which might sound like a minor thing, but (as you might already know) straight grinding marks help prevent the arc from wandering, which can happen with spiral or perpendicular grinding patterns.

Thanks for your suggestions!

Al (Steamboat)

[Deimos]

12 hours ago, Steamboat said:

The nice thing about using a diamond wheel on a bench grinder is that the grinding marks run parallel to the electrode, which might sound like a minor thing, but (as you might already know) straight grinding marks help prevent the arc from wandering, which can happen with spiral or perpendicular grinding patterns.

True, straight grind marks makes the arc (and the gas) do weird things.

The pin vice could be a good idea, I was thinking about how my engraving pen holds the tip, but that works with a spring so it would need more tinkering to hold the electrode in place.

 

[Steamboat]

As I mentioned, straight grinding marks on a tungsten electrode point should produce a more consistent, stable arc than radial grinding marks. It's interesting that such a small detail can make a significant difference.

By the way, I just ordered an electrode “wand” for holding tungsten electrodes while grinding them. The wand I ordered should be more than long enough to contain/cover the entire electrode right up to the electrode guide in my prototype device, and I think that the diameter of the wand should probably be a reasonable size for rotating the electrode with gloved fingers while grinding. I should receive it sometime in the next week or so, and IF I like it, I'll post a photo and the brand/model information.

Disclaimer: The device I have described in my posts in this thread is an experimental, prototype device, I do not warrant the safety, efficacy, or applicability of this device, and any use of this design or device is entirely at your own risk. Use all appropriate personal protective gear when using this or other tools. My posts in this thread are not intended to serve as instructions for grinding tungsten electrodes; they only provide a description of an experimental prototype device in its early development stages.

Al (Steamboat)

[Deimos]

Yes, that is what I meant, it is so easy to mess up when you are translating from Dutch to English. What us was told is by having radial grooves (or anything that is not straight) your gas starts to rotate, and because of this you can either pull in air (and burning the electrode) or get a wandering arc/flame.

[Steamboat]

Things can get switched around easily when translating between languages. 

Cheers,

Al (Steamboat)

[Steamboat]

Another update: I recently bought an electrode holder to try using with my experimental prototype electrode sharpener. In the photo below, the holder encloses the electrode almost up to where it enters the guide hole of my sharpener. The holder came with collets for 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8-inch electrodes. The collets can be stored in the holder when the holder is not in use. 

I can rotate the holder easily with gloved fingers, which I really like, as I feel that it gives me more control over the grinding process. The pocket clip can be removed if desired. Note that I always tighten the collet firmly and screw the end cap onto the holder before grinding an electrode to prevent the electrode from coming loose or getting pushed out through the end of the holder.

It seems to me that using this electrode holder with my experimental prototype electrode sharpener could improve safety in case of kickback. Grinding electrodes is never totally safe, however, and I will continue to take my usual precautions while doing further testing.

In the photo below, I've set up the holder for grinding a 3/32" electrode, with the end cap in place and the collet tightened. The other collets and pocket clip that came with the holder are also shown.

Disclaimer: This post is not intended to be an endorsement of any product depicted or described here. I do not guarantee the safety, efficacy, or applicability of my experimental prototype electrode sharpener device that is depicted or described in my posts in this thread, or the use of any product with that device. Any use of my design or methods is entirely at your own risk. Use appropriate personal protective gear at all times. My posts are not intended as instructions for grinding tungsten electrodes, but only to show the stages in the development process of my experimental prototype electrode sharpener.

Suggestions are always welcome, of course.

Al (Steamboat)

[HCO41]

NICE WORK, both the prototype and updates.  My one thought thru the whole process:  Is there a way to reverse the rotation of the grinder?  If not, I thought that I would buy a cheap 6" bench grinder, see if the rotation can be reversed and, if not, see if the guards could be reversed and the grinder turned backwards to accomplish having the wheel turn AWAY from the electrode end thus eliminating the chance for kick back.  This may require mods. to the debris outlets as well but that shouldn't be a game changer.

 

 

 

 

 

[Charles R. Stevens]

Wouldn’t rotating the top to bottom of the wheel accomplish that? A mirror would resolve any issue with being able to see what you are doing?

[Steamboat]

I suppose there could be ways to reverse the direction of a grinder wheel relative to what you're working on.

HOWEVER, if you feed an electrode through a restrictive GUIDE (such as the one shown in my experimental device in this thread) into a wheel that is rotating AWAY from the point of the electrode instead of TOWARD the point of the electrode, there is a good chance that the electrode could be grabbed by the wheel and drawn/pulled through the guide, which could bend and break the electrode and throw sharp pieces of metal around, etc., which could be dangerous. It's been quite a while, but I seem to recall that happening when I tried something like that.

Disclaimer:  I am not an expert. This post is not intended to be an endorsement of any product or idea depicted or described here. I do not guarantee the safety, efficacy, or applicability of my experimental prototype electrode sharpener device that is depicted or described in my posts in this thread, or the use of any product with that device. Any use of my design or methods is entirely at your own risk. Use appropriate personal protective gear at all times. My posts are not intended as instructions for grinding tungsten electrodes, but only to show the stages in the development process of my experimental prototype electrode sharpener.

[Frosty]

It's been a long time since I ground a tungsten but I recall them being so hard I could hardly feel pressure from the wheel. I have trouble imagining them grabbing, especially when in a drag position. Still it's easy to allow for.

Reverse the rest so the tungsten is dragging on the wheel and have a slotted piece attached to the rest that allows room to move the tungsten but won't allow your holder to pass. Reversing direction is as easy as buying a grinder with two wheels and switching the rests. That way you'll be working on top of the wheel turning away.  If you don't use the dust catcher normally on a grinder and replace it with a small wooden box connected to a shop vac the dust will be caught and if a tungsten breaks or snags the wheel it will be thrown into the wood and stop.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Steamboat]

Thanks for the comments, Frosty.

Tungsten is hard, but the coefficent of friction between a tungsten electrode and a grinding wheel can still be significant, at least in my experience. I just looked through the leftover parts from my earliest experiments...and at the contents of my used-electrode bin...and the sight of several bent and broken tungsten electrodes refreshed my memory of experimenting with a fixed/restrictive guide combined with a 'dragging' rotation direction. I can recall the wheel pulling an electrode(s) through the guide and breaking it. The fixed guide allowed forces to build up in a fraction of a second.

I think a drag-sharpening situation could be different if MANUALLY sharpening an electrode by hand, WITHOUT using a fixed, restrictive guide like mine, since the pressure against the wheel and the resultant pulling and bending forces could be limited by the user when holding the electrode.

--------------

Disclaimer:  I am not an expert. This post is not intended to be an endorsement of any product or idea depicted or described here. I do not guarantee the safety, efficacy, or applicability of my experimental prototype electrode sharpener device that is depicted or described in my posts in this thread, or the use of any product with that device. Any use of my design or methods is entirely at your own risk. Use appropriate personal protective gear at all times. My posts are not intended as instructions for grinding tungsten electrodes, but only to show the stages in the development process of my experimental prototype electrode sharpener.

[bubba682]

Nice jig for a shop but in the field we just put the tungsten in a hand held drill turn it on and hold it upwards against the grind stone with the grinder running of course, works great for sharpening tungsten. In all the years i tigged pipe i only used a custom tungsten sharpener once and that was at BW boiler shop in Cambridge Ontario Can.What i didnt like about the sharpening jig is that you could only get one length of angle from the point .With a drill you can get what you like since you never get a perfect fit up on pipe so its nice to have that ability to go long or short with the point along with stick out and a diffuser cup.Hope this makes sence if you did alot of tig welding on high pressure pipe it should.

[Steamboat]

bubba682, as you alluded to, I've seen some sharpeners that didn't have much, if any, adjustability, although I can adjust my experimental jig to produce a fairly wide range of point angles/lengths.

You mentioned using a diffuser and extra stick-out for pipe welding. I'm not a professional welder, but I've done a fair amount of welding on my own projects over the years, and I've recently started using gas lenses/diffusers. I think that my welds are coming out more consistently clean, and since the smoother gas flow allows some extra stick-out, I have a little better visibility of the weld pool. Maybe it's the improved visibility (or maybe it's just from having more practice), but I seem to be accidentally dipping my tungsten less often.  

By the way, Cape Breton Island looks like a gorgeous area. We've spent a good deal of time in New Brunswick, as we used to go to places like Campobello Island, Grand Manan Island, etc., on a regular basis, but we haven't yet made it to Nova Scotia. It's on our bucket list of places to go.

[bubba682]

Gas diffuser is all we use now when you dip or stick your tungsten in an xray you'll leave a ghost or white mark and sometimes the tip learn to free hand ,walkin the cup is pretty but in tight spots you can get jammed so free hand will get you out of alot of jams.I usually use a 1/4'' stick out for pipe roots a little less on caps and i run 20 on the valve meter argon is usually your friend.

If you can get long and short range of points you'll have a seller everyone has diff lengths they like and make sure its strong guys are hard on stuff.

ONCE fall colors hit its real nice up here right now were waiten on rain in the rivers to fly fish salmon.Ive been thru Maine its nice country there as well and i heard theres good salmon fishing on some of the rivers someday i gotta get down and try it .Ya got anymore ques if i can help ya out if i will...

[Frosty]

I've never seen a tig tungsten bend but when I learned it was called heliarc, that argon stuff was too new fangled for my first trade school instructor, it was covered by my second though. Tungstens snapped if you pushed too hard or dropped the stinger on it. Something I see in the pic is how coarse the wheel you're using is though that may be a trick of the photography. 

The wheels we used were the finest grit blue wheels available and pretty much polished the tips. We always ground transversely and got "instruction" if we pushed against the wheel.

If you stop grinding manually it'd be pretty simple to make or buy a guide that applies specific pressure. Heat isn't an issue so taking longer to avoid ruining tigs shouldn't be an issue. 

Frosty The Lucky.

[Steamboat]

I don't remember what grit the diamond wheel is, but it is a lot finer than it looks in the photos, probably because of the way the surface makes random reflections, making the granules look farther apart.

The points should be ground longitudinally (lengthwise, with grind marks in line with the electrode), according to all of the instructions I've read.

Tungstens can snap very easily, but they can also be bent. To demonstrate, I just went out to the shop and bent this 2% lanthanated tungsten in a couple of places, cold, (while wearing appropriate protective gear, of course, in case it snapped).