Power hammer build and effect of a larger anvil mass

[Frosty]

There's a pretty inexpensive way to get your beam. Glue laminate it from ply wood. Cut 6" strips, use a good wood glue apply a THIN coat and screw on the next layer. You want the screw pattern pretty close, start in the center of each ply and work to the ends. I haven't made a beam or whatever more than 1 1/2" thick but it was very strong and stiffer than the ply wood I started with. 

I wouldn't use epoxy or polyester (firberglass) resin I don't know how it'd stand up to repeated shock. Commercial Elmer's wood glue is plenty strong and has some flex.  Don't forget to (LIGHTLY) butter the layers so it penetrates the wood for a good bond. 

Frosty The Lucky.

[Justin Topp]

Would ply wood be best? I can easily get hickory, ash, Osage orange wood boards. Or any other wood really. 

[Justin Topp]

Got the anvil mostly done. Just a bit more welding to do on it. I also sunk the base into the ground. Removed the pavers and sand. Than packed sand in to keep the base steady. And solid. It may rot out eventually but it should last a fairly long time. They are oak railroad bridge planks. 

[ThomasPowers]

Are they creosoted?  Where I'm at the old fashioned creosoted timbers are good for over 60 years in ground contact according to the Electrical CoOp guy I was talking to when I got my "10 years in the ground" Utility poles to build my shop extension.

[Justin Topp]

Yes they are Creosoted oak railroad bridge timber’s. Should hold up really nicely. They are in good condition not too heavily used. Still solid. So there’s plenty of life left in them. 

[Justin Topp]

Still lots of work but I was able to test with just gravity. Hooked up a string to pull it up a bit and let it fall. 53 lb ram. If I can figure out how to upload to YouTube on mobile I’ll post a video. It rather impressed me. Can’t wait to get the motor on 

[Justin Topp]

Talked to a machinist friend about getting the “cam” machined. Basically an oversized roller bearing. It’s being laser cut at one place. Than he’s gonna machine it to within a few thousandths. Should work pretty good 

[Justin Topp]

Got the motor for the hammer. A older 2 horse power surge motor 

[Justin Topp]

Posted a video of it hammering some stuff. Just dropping the hammer as a test if anyone is interested 

 

[ThomasPowers]

For nuts you need a spacer/check block on the bottom die.

I hope you plan to speed it up in the future.

[Justin Topp]

I’ll add one. But die system is prone to change soon.

 

 
there is no motor. I have a rope tied to it that goes through a pulley on the roof. I pull down to lift than I drop the hammer. Letting gravity do the work. It will hit much much faster when there is a motor on. This was strictly a test.  

[Jealdi]

Justin,

This has been very interesting to watch. I'm excited to see you finish it.

[Justin Topp]

Shouldn’t be too long now! Ordered all the remaining parts. Only waiting for them to arrive and for the “cam” to get finished being machined. 

[Justin Topp]

2 weeks till it’s done 

[Justin Topp]

2hp 1750 rpm motor. Got it wired and Bolting it down today 

[Justin Topp]

Needs the “cam” Thingy. And the treadle bolted on. Than it’s good to go. 

[Fowllife]

On 1/10/2021 at 11:36 PM, Justin Topp said:

Would ply wood be best? I can easily get hickory, ash, Osage orange wood boards. Or any other wood really. 

I know I’m a little late on this, but better late then never. Plywood would not be my first, or second choice in this application. Any hardwood would be good as long as it’s not one of the more brittle woods. Ash, oak, or hickory would all be good choices as long as they have straight grain.

Osage would be the best as it’s one of the strongest domestic hardwoods, but it doesn’t glue very well. Epoxy would be needed instead of glue. You also will probably end up breaking screws so thru bolts would be better. 

With most other domestic hardwoods Titebond II would be a good option for glue. If you can get good clamping pressure fasteners aren’t really required, but I would put some 3/8”-1/2” thru bolts staggered off dented with at least a 1 1/4” edge distance. With hardwoods screws become more difficult and less effective. 

Btw, I love your build. I can’t wait until you get it running and can see what it can do. Nice work. 

[Justin Topp]

Thanks for the info and your not too late for when I replace this beam eventually!  I was thinking plywood wouldn’t be great. I think gluing than putting bolts through the beam would be the best option if I laminate one Like you said. However I live in an abundance of ash trees. So I could probably mill one to size using a chainsaw. 

[Justin Topp]

Got impatient with it and added a temporary cam. Hits pretty good. Here’s one heat on 1.625” round 4140

[Justin Topp]

On 1/26/2021 at 11:51 AM, ThomasPowers said:

I hope you plan to speed it up in the future.

It’s finished for the most part. Sped up very nicely with the motor added. 
 

 

[Rojo Pedro]

Very nicely done Justin.
 

Looks like it has good control and big hit. Nice and quiet too

 

[JHCC]

That's very impressive, Justin. Now you've got me thinking about converting the nodding donkey to power (or at very least adding a bolt-on die to its underside). I think if I do, though, I'd probably include arftist's innovation of a flywheel between the motor and the cam mechanism, since that apparently does a good job of reducing the strain on the motor as it starts to transmit power to the hammer.

[Justin Topp]

Thanks! 

a flywheel wouldn’t hurt. I may add one eventually 

[Justin Topp]

Collected the parts and did the finish machining myself. Very close to finishing the real cam and the hammer. Milled a keyway into the shaft. And turned everything else to size on the lathe. Tolerances are +/- 0.003”. Should work out pretty good I think. 

[Greebe]

Very Nice. Is there any reason to go to the homemade bearing cam thing vs the way you have it now?