MRB Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 Hi, I have been experimenting a lot lately, and am trying to find a clean and efficient finish for my fire place sets. Wire wheeling takes a while and is dangerous, sandblaster takes a while and doesn’t look nice, tumbler worked great but now doesn’t function. I’m just interested to know what most other professional smiths do to clean up their work before applying linseed oil or other finishes. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 Electrolysis, acid bath, vibratory media, etc. Each has a different look to the work. Linseed oil ? Why not try paint where applicable. There are some hammered look paints that are nice. Clear coats keep the look of the metal as well as provide protection. Colored waxes have been used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 MRB, Iif you are contemplating using paint. Look into a product called "Hammertone". It may work well for you. SLAG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 Header (welded tubing, automotive exhaust manifold) paint comes in different colors and is proof against temps over 500f. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 I've used Hammertone on railings and hand rails, looks good and wears well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRB Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 Great call with the paint fellas! When I research Hammertone, two options come up. Either Hammerlite or Rustoleum Hammered Paint. Are both similar? And how would they wear to the heat of a fire at the tip? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 All I do for surface prep is a hand wire brush from a red thru a black heat and a farriers rasp with the front edge radius'd and beveled and used as a scraper on hot iron from a red thru a black heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 12 hours ago, Frosty said: proof against temps over 500f. The VHT "flameproof" paint claims 1300°F-2000°F. Curing is required for best performance. But it will dry and be strong without curing. Exhaust paints are higher temp. It's the engine paints that are good up to around 500°f. You're right tho, they are a good option And even come in satin clear if you wanted to keep the metal look. It will darken the look a bit but I don't mind on what I use it for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 11 hours ago, MRB said: Rustoleum Hammered Paint. My old teacher Fred Crist (former Master Blacksmith at the old Yellin shop on Arch Street in Philadelphia) uses the Rustoleum Hammered for exterior work. If it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 Thanks Das, I thought I was remembering on the low side but the number kept coming up in my dented brain. When we're talking fire tools they usually don't spend a lot of time actually in the fire so they don't usually get so hot. This thread got me curious so I took a look at the fire rake I use as a poker in the wood stove. It was left unfinished and after probably 20 years has a thin black scale finish in general with hand rubbed highlights, The fire contact end is always ashy steel without scale. It isn't a sale item or show piece and is in the house. My point about our indoor fire rake is how little the fire has effected it. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRB Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 I’m glad I asked, everyone has some real good ideas! I experimented with the hammered paint today, and I like it. It won’t replace a nice clean wax finish, but for my large production items like pokers, the paint will work great. Plus I can put that stuff right over the scale. I painted a poker, and did a nice abuse test bringing the poker tip to a yellow heat in my forge. The paint burned up on the working end of course, further down wasn’t terribly effected and wore in nicely with the shaft of the poker. Plus I can offer different colors if desired too, and this should last better to rust if stored outdoors for pits then my normal linseed oil finish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 Just go over your work with a wire brush or wire wheel (with appropriate PPE) to knock off any loose scale before you paint it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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