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I Forge Iron

Finish for bare steel


Blacksmith39

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For a while now I’ve been finishing certain pieces I make by wire wheeling them so they look silver colored instead of black. I’m always a little concerned about rust though. I coat a lot of the pieces with clear gloss Rustoleum if I know it’s going to be outside or around a lot of moisture (like a towel ring or towel holder etc.). Is that a good coating or will it still rust? I’ve never gotten any complaints but I don’t want to wait for that to happen. Also items that are pretty small like Christmas ornaments, pendants, and hair pins that I wire wheel I leave without a finish because I know they are probably not going to be exposed to much if any moisture. Should I be coating these with something? I don’t like to paint steel so I only do it when I have to. 
I’m wondering if I should just stay away from doing the polished finish in the future but I kinda hate to because a lot of people love the silver colored finish that wire wheeling gives it. Maybe I should just wax and oil everything when it comes outta the fire like I do with almost everything else I make. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? 
Thanks! 

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There's nothing wrong with paint, most high quality blacksmith equipment came painted and you wouldn't deliver unpainted railings, gates, etc. since paint was invented. It just wasn't done.

Besides your customers LIKE the brushed steel look so heck yes you should put a good durable clear coat on it. For Christmas ornaments and other indoor decorations give them a choice, say clear coated like now or primed if they'd like to paint themselves. I'd offer a limited palate of custom colors though. A metal flake Candy Apple red Christmas ornament of almost any shape would look good.

Of course that's just my opinion, I could be wrong listening to the wrong voices.

Frosty The Lucky.

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The projected environment should play a large part in how you finish an item.  Anything in a humid or salty environment such as Florida, Hawaii, or against someone's skin will rust, sometimes as you watch.  Anything on a person's body is in a surprisingly harsh environment. Sweat, skin oils, hair products, and getting caught in the rain can all quickly oxidize metal.  Something that will be in a dry environment needs less protection.  There is nothing wrong with putting boiled linseed oil on a bare metal finish.  Other clear coats can be used.  Unless you are working in stainless steel make sure that you instruct your customers that steel WILL rust and how they should maintain it.

"By hammer an hand all arts do stand."  

PS  Post your location, please.  That may effect our replies.  You could be anywhere in the world.  You finish problems will be different in you are in the outback of Australia than if you are on the beach in Malaysia.

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I prefer a blo, turps, beeswax hot oil finish for household use including bathroom stuff.

After I apply the finish hot I then hand rub it down with alcohol to clean the gradoo off. This does two things. It prevents black smudges and the harder you rub it,  it will bring out bright highlights that make a great visual with the matte black. The harder and longer you rub, the more highlights. I then rub on and in a light coat of a carnuba based furniture polish. Then a final light alcohol wipe. 

I prefer this over clearcoat because clearcoat, over time will check and flake off with use. Its far easier to maintain the oil finish than to remove and redo the polymer.

The hot oil finish is pretty durable and rarely needs any maintaining. I've never had any complaints about rust or black smudges.

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