Anvil ID.

[MikeLuciano]

Hi everyone,

I was gifted this anvil from my father the other day, when I received it, it was very rusty and I thought it had no markings. I weighed it, (kinda broke my scale) but I think it’s between 220 pounds and 240 pounds. When I cleaned it I now see letters on the right side (punch hole side) faintly you can see a “W_ _GHT” and on the foot I see an 8. I make knives and swords but admittedly I’m not an anvil expert. Can anyone please tell me an estimated year on this anvil and maker?

 

Thank you in advance, Mike

[Frazer]

I'm no expert, but the step around base/feet suggests Peter Wright. Which would also fit with letters that are still visible. Looks like a nice usable anvil! Peter Wrights have a tool steel face welded on the top so any grinding done to "clean it" will take years off it's life. A wire wheel is fine, but a few doses of hot steel will clean her up nicely. That's a great gift from your dad and one you'll enjoy for a long time I'm sure. Have you checked the rebound?

By the way, welcome aboard! Take a minute to read the attached thread to help you get the most out of the site.

 

PS you can attach pictures by dragging them into the text area and/or by clicking "choose files" hyperlink at the bottom of the dialog box. There is a file size limit, I forget how many MBs... but if you're having trouble, try resizing the image and uploading it again.

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

I would say a Peter Wright from the partial name and the flats on the top of the feet. I hope you have read about not doing any grinding, milling or welding on the hardened face. It's a fine looking anvil and hot steel hammered will shine up the face just fine. Knowing where in the world you are located would help in the Id. More pictures will also help. A shot of the underside of the base may have a clue and the weight is usually stamped on the side away from the one pictured.

[Frosty]

Welcome aboard Mike, glad to have you. Looks like you scored big time with that beauty, make your Father something nice on it as a thank you. Eh? 

A right angle grinder and a cup wire brush (appropriate protective equipment is a must!) will clean up the rust in no time. Do it outside if possible it's a dusty job, a dusting of rust is usually good for the garden or lawn but sucks moldy biscuits in the garage. Yes?

No grinders, a wire brush won't remove enough to notice but a grinder shortens the anvil's useful life with every touch. After brushing, if you wish to prevent further rusting and it'll start as soon as you quit brushing, a coating of Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) works nicely, burn the rag afterwards BLO can spontaneously combust on: rags, paper towels, etc. and that's WAY moldier biscuits in the shop. Yes? 

BLO will polymerize and harden over time. There are commercial BLO products that contain driers and harden much faster but are NOT safe for food contact items. Say you want to make a: BBQ spit, carving fork, spatula, etc. These need a food grade finish to be safe. Yes?

A coat of paste wax on a warm anvil works very well too, My favorite is carnuba paste wax, the brand I've had in my tool bag for maybe 25 years is "Trewax" but "Bowling Alley Wax" is another excellent brand. Carnuba wax applied to a say fresh cup of coffee warm surface melts. Melted carnuba wax is very low viscosity and soaks into every nook and cranny. One the surface looks wetted wipe off excess and let it cool. When cool, a thin coat of carnuba is hard as a rock and tough as nails. Carnuba is what they wax bowling alleys with, you know the stuff they have to sand to get off the wood? 

Johnson's paste wax with carnuba is good but isn't as tough an occasional touch up is no big deal though and can be done to a cool anvil, no problem.  

Treat that beautiful old lady well and your great grandchildren will be telling stories about great granddad the blacksmith while they teach their grandkids the craft. Seriously, there are generations of good work in that fine old lady.

Frosty The Lucky.

[ThomasPowers]

Note if it is a Peter Wright then the weight stamp will be in the CWT system so:  Z   Y   X(W)  where the weight in pounds would be: Z x 112  + Y x 28 (and Y can only be 0,1,2,3 ) and X(W) is residual pounds and can be 0-27.    Also, stamped weight may  be a few pounds off weighed weight with a modern scale.