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I Forge Iron

First set of spring fullers


M.G.

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Today I got into the shop for a few hours, to work out some tooling in preparation for a run of machetes. Im going to need to make some box jaw tongs to fit my leaf spring material.  To make the job of isolating the box bit nice and easy, I forges this spring fullering tool for my hardie hole. Started with a 3ft section of 1/4inch mild round bar. 20201102_142953.jpg.175e2a99c2e7034268ec993ff802b8b8.jpg20201102_142632.jpg.b406320d0e43407c3ebab61aa4914f5f.jpg20201102_142720.jpg.8ac06d8969e498a974927e2cbfa7c7ec.jpg20201102_142710.jpg.8b42516ae0f01dd8f3e07b11a006a3bf.jpg

Tips and suggestions are always appreciated. 

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I made a set of these a little while back from some straightened-out 7/16" round coil spring. There was either an existing crack in the steel or it work-hardened with use, because after a couple of weeks, about six inches flew off the end and past my ear.

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Thanks! True and expected. But it only costs me a couple hours and a few bucks to make another. Perhaps in the future I will make a set from coil spring. But really these will be for light duty fullering. I will be making a  handled top fuller and bottom fuller with hardie shank for heavier works.

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ive made a set of spring fullers from coil spring. They range from 1/4" to 2". They are graduated by 1/4" from 1/4" to 1". They are all hand held, not hardy mount. I use them on both my power hammer and anvil. For my anvil I use an adjustable "roller" stands a heavy weight and an "s" hook to hold the weight on my stock. I level the stand with the anvil face. This does hold my work secure and allows me a free hand to hold the spring fuller. I use them a lot and even tho made from coil spring, I need to reset them. The reason for the gradations is because I've found that opening them up a 1/4" to 3/8" proud is quicker, more precise, and easier on the tools when,doing a deep groove or working large diameter iron. These are the spring fullers I used as above to create  the detail.

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2017-08-14 08.58.58_184.JPG

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