kilemnik Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 IMG_0864_Trim.mp4 IMG_0864_Trim.mp4 IMG_0861_Trim.mp4 Hi everyone, I just build 2 propane burners. They seems to work well outside the forge housing at horizontal position but- When I insert them inside the forge there is no premixed flame as should be. I thought maybe its because the change to vertical position? or maybe related to the inner dimensions of my forge? Someone have any idea? Im attaching here some videos showing the problem. Thank you for helping! Jonathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
localsmith Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 That's a pretty narrow forge and your burner is dealing with a lot of back pressure. Try dialing down the psi on your burner and it should run better in your forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 Your video's won't play for me. Still pictures are better to analyze the flame. If you put your location in your profile, you may be surprised how many members are near enough to check it out in person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilemnik Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 Hey thank you for answering! I’ve tried to lower the psi but then the flame feels to thin and it’s still jumping on and off.. here some photos.. thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 No; those burner are not working well outside the forge. You have weak heavily reducing flames in both. First, try closing the choke plates; this kind of burner has a sweet spot that is likely to be a lot narrower opening than you'd expect. How come such a thing? Moving the choke plate closer will actually increase swirl in the incoming air. The hole point of those reducers is to add swirl; not to act as some kind of "air scoop" For maximum benifit, you will probably also need to make some changes in your gas orifices. So, how about laying some more information on us, so we can help with that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 Is that hard firebrick too? If so it's a real heat hog. I strongly suggest a kaowool lined forge. I also do not like vertically oriented burners due to their proclivity to re-run exhaust and so spike CO levels---as well as chimney effect issues once you shut them down. Can you stop by my smithy and I can show you what I am using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 The video that you added show one definite problem, and a second likely problem. You definitely have some kind of blockage in your gas system; most likely in the MIG tip, but we've seen these blockages come from as far away as the fuel hose (that is rare). The likely problem is that you also need to increase gas pressure. While you have the gas tubes and MIG tips out for cleaning, how about a photo, and description of part sizes? Once you resolve your immediate problems, you will be left with a design problem, unless we can address it at the same time. Look; you have built a nice pair of burners. Why stop halfway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilemnik Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 Thank you! I replaced the burner ending with a 3/4 to 1 1/4 reducer, earlier it was a 1.9'' steel pipe. Is it looks better ? Still, when the burner inside the forge I have this jumping on and off problem especially when the back of the forge is closed or half closed. I added another video about that. Gas pressure is 0.5 bar (~7 psi) Part sizes are in the drawing blew. Thanks !!! IMG_0882_Trim.mp4 IMG_0884_Trim.mp4 IMG_0888_Trim.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 Yes, the flames up much improved. As to the pulsing problem, back-pressure has two aspects; one of them is the flames strength (push power). So, turning down the burner to avoid too much back-pressure will become counterproductive if the flame becomes too feeble. Turn UP your gas pressure; lets hear those flames roar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 I've noticed that my T burners are pretty loud; but as loudness is a sign of getting a good burner mix; it's to be considered a feature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 The proper ratio of mixing tube length to ID is 8:1 and 8 x 3/4" is NOT 8". YOur mixing tube should be 6", not counting flare, etc. Yes, it should be uncomfortably LOUD. You can hear one of my T burners inside the closed shop from the front door of the house and that's about 130' away. When it's running near neutral it almost screams, I wear ear plugs. NARB 2 burner is a whisper compared to one straight 3/4" T burner. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 Why I tell students to learn to tune "by ear and by eye": loudest is the most balanced mix and the brightest wall glow at the impingement is most balanced. So I generally tuned my old burners to max and then rich them up a bit to do knives with less scaling. I have a blown ribbon burner already and hope to have electricity to the shop by Christmas! (If not sooner!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.