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I Forge Iron

What did you do in the shop today?


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Yeah I figured massive rooftop units.  Lots of hoods and refrigeration and ac units everywhere I work have signed the repair bill for some them motors or replacements and never dawned on me lol. 

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Small places may be more concerned with saving every penny. Large places---any hassle might cost more than they would save.  Just be sure there is no conflict of interest---why I like to buy stuff at the scrapyard!  (I've even had people unloading stuff at the scrapyard offer it to me free and I'd go and buy it from the scrapyard anyway. Once it's in the gates...)

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O yes I well aware that. Corperate america counts every penny. Just have seen many just go to scrappers worked at spot like you said trash was cheaper cut loss start new. Where others inventory everything all depends on their size like you said. But now I aware just never connected the dots and now can.

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I have an upcoming project that is going to have a lot of bends and some scrolling coming up. Well i need a decent turning wrench instead of using a pair of pliers or something and decided to make one. Well off to the internet i go. Seemed that Mark Asprey had a way of doing it that was quite easy to draw out the little nub. However i missed the part where he had a piece supporting the back of the piece. So here i am now with a coule hours before i have to go to work to day and decided to go out and make me a support. 

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Justa piece of angle with another welded on to hopefully prevent this.

IMG_20210715_133806.thumb.jpg.9f8fc0ea8928d62dc2d423d5a976642d.jpg

Edited by BillyBones
Hit save instead of add a pic.
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If you put a single piece of angle iron in the vise lengthwise and sloping up you can clamp both the angle iron and your work together and work the critter head at a comfortable angle.

The way to make it into a proper bridge tool is to cut the horizontal flange away where it fits into the vise, leaving the flange NOT in the vise intact. Then you cut some of the vertical flange away and bend the horizontal at a downward angle. Once you've established the angle of bend and general placement in the vise weld a piece of stock to the clamped flange so it rests on the vise, that way you don't have to position it, it'll just drop in the vise.

The vise jaw holds your stock in the bridge anvil, the head rests over the angle giving you a firm backing to chase in features. 

I can't find a pic of  mine, hopefully someone else will post a pic to unmuddy my description.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Frosty, either i cannot visualize what you are saying or maybe you misinterpret what i am getting at. I need to draw out the nub but keep the back from offsetting on the vice jaw. So i will be hammering straight (more or less) down on to the nub. The little notch at the back is what i do not want. 

After going back to read your post again i have to ask, are you thinking i am doing an animal head? I am making a turning wrench, but i do know the tool you are talking about i believe and that may work also. So i do not have one, off of work tomorrow, cant think of a reason not to make one and give it a try. I am going to need more than one wrench anyway why not try different methods and find what works best for me. 

It also now does not look as a failed wrench and could be salvaged into an animal head, so i need the bridge anyway now. 

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A top fuller might give you a little more control over where and in which direction on the nub you're striking until you have a little more room to get the hammer in there.

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Those tables will be gorgeous and wow resin is exspensive.  Excellent work sir hope you get a pretty penny.

 

Tongs dont seem that easy to make but I see alot of people making them time for research.

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I forged out some final pieces for a new fire pot yesterday. Everything else was cut and ground with an angle grinder, but these parts I wanted to forge.

First is the slit for the air on the bottom of the pot, I used the Bob Patrick design and slightly changed it to accommodate for the stock size that I had available.

IMG_20210715_150221__01.thumb.jpg.300fb1d25794a4b9eba3549237a4900b.jpg

I drilled two 13 mm holes, and hot cut the middle part, it did ruin my chisel.

I also forged the handle for the ash dump, and riveted the ash dump door to the handle using nails as rivets (2.5 mm thick).

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The handle is quite heavy on itself, I have made a hole for an ash dump weight, but I don't know if it's needed.

Saturday I'm welding everything up with my brother. And Sunday will probably be spend installing it in the forge. I'm also eyeing a new electric forge blower to go with it. 

~Jobtiel

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10 hours ago, Gandalfgreen said:

Top one looks like a tanto.

 I'm going for a wakazashi, it's around 18 inch blade but I need to throw a tape on it.   The coffee hasn't kicked in so I can't remember.  Forged it from a rail anchor that showed up in my shop mysteriously.  

Edited by Chad J.
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A special shaped chisel with make short work of clipping corners on a production run.

Even faster when you set up a stop for how far from the edge for the chisel to hit.  Think of a fence with the metal sliding under the fence and hitting the stop.  Put the chisel against the fence and whack.  This is also where a guillotine fuller can be used.

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