JHCC Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Lot of coyotes in my part of north-central Ohio. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 How did you think I found so many anvils in Ohio? Just remember to wash off the coyote parts and reoil carefully when you find a set! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Beep Beep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 So instead of TPAAT i should be using FTRRA? (Follow the road runner around) Coyotes have infested Ohio. We got quite a few here in the Miami Valley also. Anywho, yesterday i worked some pipe for my first time. Making the better half some candle holders i figure. I am stuck. Any suggestions on how to finish the bottoms so i can mount them to a nice piece of wood or something would be much appreciated. Either 3/4 or 5/8 pipe. When i was in Iraq i learned and my buddy learned the hard way about gasses traveling through a pipe while on poo detail. We filled the barrel of waste with diesel fuel and lit it on fire. My buddy was stirring it with a camo net pole when a flame and some not so tasty bits shot out end of the pole. He did not get burned but he did get a shower of diesel and lets say waste material. We switched to an old metal fence post after that. The green slender kind in a "T" shape not a hollow pole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 BillyBones, how much of that pipe is to keep, and how much is available for the base? One of the simplest things to do would be to split the pipe lengthwise up from the bottom, to about one pipe diameter's distance below the bottom fuller. This could be either three pieces or four. Then forge the resulting strips out into legs, tapering, scrolling, bending etc as your fancy suits. Another option would be forge a base out of some thing plate and attach the stick in whatever manner you like. That could be welded, riveted, or whatever. A good option would be to make a divot in the bottom of the base that the pipe could fit over (helping to keep it centered), drill a hole in the middle, and run a machine screw up from the bottom of the base. You could even weld a nut into the inside of the bottom of the cup, so that the stick can be disassembled for shipping or cleaning. Just a couple of ideas, but I'm sure you can think of plenty more. Be creative! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Another way to mount candle cups is to insert a nail in from the cup and swage the necked section closed leaving a drive point or pin. A SMALL nail or large brad. A piece of welding rod would work but it'd be hard to trim inside the cup unless you wanted it to stick the candle down. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 You can forge a solid rod to wrap around the holder and then forge the other end to sit nicely on the base. (To get fancy you can make them tentacles.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul TIKI Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 I'm looking at my old tube flaring tool. If you had a cone mandrel (I think that's what it is), could you heat what you want as the base and then smack it down on the cone to flare out the bottom? That's what I might try. Or if you could do the same sort of thing on the horn of an anvil maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Yes, but you need the base wide enough to be stable and safe to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul TIKI Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 That's why I was thinking about using the horn, you have enough control to get a broader base maybe. I dunno, this is well beyond my skill set at this time, but in my head it makes sense. Heat the pipe as far up as you want the flare to go, then hammer around the horn rotating the pipe as necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewnmoutain Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Attempted the infamous basket twist. Didnt have enough round stock on hand to make an attempt, so i used 1/4 square. Forge welded the ends. So, i twisted and then reversed, and it came out with that gap between the two legs on the back side. Im inclined to think that that was caused by lack of even heat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Heat of all bars should be hot and even. When you untwist, push a little and it will move nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Could be; rotating the twisted tight basket in the forge can help even out the heat. It's fairly common to have to tweak the bars to get an even basket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 There's no rule saying you can't reheat, re twist then re untwist to try again if you aren't satisfied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 Try to make sure you keep the ends aligned as well as a good even heat. in your picture the ends look offset, this will cause uneven spacings of the parts. It is possible to adjust the spaces using one or two round nose tongs or a lever (like a screwdriver blade shape) to give a controlled adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 Thanks for the suggestions. I am thinking i will use JHCC's suggestion of welding a nut in the bottom of the pipe, then run it through a piece of wood with a machine screw counter sunk in the underside. Drill holes the diameter of the pipe about halfway through for them to sit in will also look better. The next set i am thinking Thomas's idea of wrap around. Never tried tentacles so it gives me a reason to. Maybe a set, one with tentacles with one on each side with viney looking sea weed. Thinking about it now, Frosty's idea, but instead of a cup cut a piece into slices, make the slices into petals, fold them up for a flower that would have the nail in the bottom to mount, then weld the holders into the flower so they look like they are coming up out of the flower. Paul, i can visualize what you are saying. That is more or less how i flared the top. I used a 1" ball punch in a vise, heated the end and drove onto the punch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deimos Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 keep in mind that most nuts have a coating that makes is very hard to weld them, and the stuff that comes from them when you weld them is very bad for you. Why not just drill a hole in a piece of metal and thread it yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 Deimos’s suggestion is a good one, especially if you do the threading after the welding. If you do use a manufactured nut, an old unplated one would be safest. In rust we trust! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deimos Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 Just use the right type of tap, and drill the hole a size where there is not as much chance of breaking the tap. With metric taps you take the size of the thread you want (like M8 or M10) and multiply that by 0.8 to get the hole size. My next project will be changing the breaker that powers my shed, my old welder pulls a pretty hefty spike and the B16A does not like that, hopefully a C16A will change that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 Most SAE taps have the drill size stamped on the shank, but almost always in number gauge. Since I don't have many such drill bits, I recently picked up a drill gauge that allows me to find which of my bits is closest to what I need. Even if I don't get a perfect match, I can usually get pretty close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deimos Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 As long as you don't go bigger then the size of the tap. I am pretty lucky with my tools for drilling and tapping, my old boss threw so much away (Cuz buying stuff is better then making stuff, away with all the tools) I have a good stash of drills from 1mm up to 10mm (in steps of 0.1mm) and hands full of different sized machine grade taps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 This is the downside of working in academia. People generally don't throw away tools. (Although I did get my drill press from the theater department when they renovated the scenery workshop and decided they wanted a bench model rather than a floor model.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 Oh John; what you said! I'm doing IT for Academia and it cycles between wanting me to load cutting edge software on systems that are running DOS 3.5, to wanting to know why programs written for 8 bit systems don't run on 64 bit ones! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deimos Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 I did the electrical systems for a food truck once, they wanted about 10kW from a single 230Vac 16A connection. I just gave up after 2 hours of explaining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 6 minutes ago, Deimos said: wanted about 10kW from a single 230Vac 16A connection. I blame the NEW MATH people cant understand simple math on 3x the limits. ( iirc, 3.6 Kw for 16 amp is the limit ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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