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I Forge Iron

What did you do in the shop today?


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Well in my shop (a.k.a. driveway) today I tried out my controlled dc air source on my charcoal JABOD and forged a second coal rake. This time I used mild steel and I had better control of the air. I learned quite a bit during my second 3 hours of forging ever:

  • I'm starting to learn how to read the flames off the coals. I've been shooting for meandering, curvy flames rather than aggressive, sharp ones.
  • Still need to reduce the depth of the fire pot. Right now I feel I am a bit too high.
  • Controlled the size of my charcoal better this go around and was able to feed the fire with much fewer firefleas.
  • I handled the coal rake much more that I did my hammer.

First coal rake from rebar was too wide and too short. It was also unpleasant to hold. I hope that I've corrected those problems.

20200812_140039.thumb.jpg.d8fb429cf1aaae12324af5ab0ff02b0b.jpg

20200812_140058.jpg

 

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18 hours ago, Frazer said:

I decapitated it and forged the head into a 1.125 x 1.125 x 5.125" block to make a small hammer and maybe a top fuller.

The rest of that "headless" rail is already well defined for a hot cut hardy tool. All you have to do is weld some square tubing or stock on and grind/file bevels into the web. The one I made that way has worked well for me so far.

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Buzzkill, there are actually several things I can think of using the rest of it for. I'm glad I decided to try forging the head. What would the square tubing be for? The shank of the hardy? There is plenty of material to forge that. Apologies if I am misunderstanding.

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Fraser, the hot cut is not a bad idea, but forging the remains into a stake anvil/hardy bic (not due if I’m using the right terminology) would be another use. Heck, most of the shape is already there. If there’s not enough mass to set a stable shoulder, you could weld a mild steel shoulder onto it.

David

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Wire rabbit; just look at the differences in your rakes.  They will probably be glowing and making humming noises by the time you make a dozen of them!

Hope to be selling off 4 treadle grinders tonight; not looking forward to loading them.  It will be a bonus if I sell of 2 99# cast iron spherical dock weights as well.   Hoard loan pay off proceeding!

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19 hours ago, Frazer said:

What would the square tubing be for? The shank of the hardy? There is plenty of material to forge that. Apologies if I am misunderstanding.

Yes, the shank. For me at least it's much easier to have Mr. Lincoln help quickly attach a piece of square tubing or square stock that fits in the hardy hole.  You've already got a nice flat wide base to sit on the anvil.  It just needs something to keep it in place.  A few more minutes to grind the bevels and you're done.

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I used to enjoy throwing axes, especially double bit. I had one that I mounted upside down as it would then "stick" straight on as well as either face. I remember an SCA competition I entered where I was told it was only for single edge axes, so I told them to put a piece of duct tape on one edge and I'd never cut it. And so I did,  won it too.

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On 8/12/2020 at 9:54 PM, Benona blacksmith said:

The double bit I forged for my wife and it weighs just under 3 lbs as of now

I've not done a double bit axe yet.  Your's looks great, now that I'm getting into throwing hawks and other blades.  I'll have to add something onto to the queue (and of course I'll need a new drift and side grip hoop tongs as well).  Did you just punch and drift yours, or wrap and weld?  If the latter, can you share what stock you used and some idea of the preform?

Today's forging was finishing up the pipe tomahawk (integral forged bowl from 1" square mild steel stock with forge welded bit) and a first stab at a rail spike knife with welded HC blade.  Botched the handle size on latter, but the next one will be much better.  I'll have to grab some photos tomorrow.

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They are punched and drifted from 1"x2½"x4½" piece of forklift tine. I do plan on making a wrought iron double bit welded with a steel bit. I am going to make a YouTube video of that when I get around to it. I will share it on the site  if people are interested?

These were the work from Wednesday and Thursday. I am handling the 2 double bits today and I might work on the billet at the bottom of the picture if I have time. All the weights are written down on the stickey note in order top to bottom. 20200813_213105.jpg.7923817537cd807d8aeab86e4edca5e5.jpg.7c796b1ca4f34efe89c32396939eecb1.jpg

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Well unfortunately for me, during one of the many camping trips I've been on this year, the dagger I made myself a few months back broke due to a crack in the blade that  probably formed during quenching. So, I made myself a new one, not a dagger this time, but a Bowie knife, it's one of my best knives so far in my opinion. It is forged from a leaf spring and the handle is black locust. 

20200814_175355.jpg

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Thanks JHCC. I used it a lot today and it seems to work fine for all of my bushcrafting and what-not. And I hopefully will be capable of repurposing the handle and pomel of the dagger for my first sword project I am planing. 

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Virusds, looks good! Hopefully this one works better for you. Out of curiosity, was the one that broke also made from a leaf spring? I'm just wondering if this might be an example of the often mentioned high cycle fatigue/micro-cracks that can be present in springs when you acquire them used.

A sword? That sounds like quite the endeavor. What style do you have in mind? 

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