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What did you do in the shop today?


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CGL, Yup another video.. This time was a run and gun forging session.. It was tough for me not to create a preform.. I had to keep fighting the urge.  To me they just are so easy so unless I'm all ready doing something off kilter the preform is where I go. 

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CtG,

Cristabolite is a close cousin to quartz. They have the same formula,  namely,  silicon dioxide.  (SiO2). But They have different crystal structures.

SLAG.

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OK, cristobalite is a form of silica rather than asbestos and can cause silicosis if inhaled.  Not nearly as bad as asbestos but still not good for you our your family.  I's say the same PPE that you would use for sand blasting would be adequate.  But, as you say, in this situation with a propane forge, the best solution is to avoid any exposure to it by lining the forge with something solid to prevent disturbance of the "wool."

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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Been having some trouble lately, so today it was back to basics. Some scrap drawn to tapers, bends, etc. Did manage a coupe S hooks and a trammel hook. The trammel looks little wonky but that is from the bulges where i punched the holes. 

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Billy:  The bulges are what makes it look "authentic" or "period" because you made it with the technique that was current when trammel hooks were in use for cooking on a fireplace.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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My daughter and I went to visit briefly with LBS to show him my "attempt" at an eye punch, and he fixed it for me/ showed me a better way. It looks much less wonky now haha

Played with firepot layout on my JABOD and with coal/charcoal mix. 

Hoping to have some better time tomorrow for practice!

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I have yet to make an eye punch ctg, they seem valuable though.

I forged a couple 2.5 square circles today. I learned not to water quench 4140 hammers (one cracked). I also learned that I don't like 4140 for hammers. But I am glad I was able to get the practice because I might be making hammers for Pieh tool soon.

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8 hours ago, Jasent said:

You will need refectory coating.

Well i guess i will do that. I was real excited to get forging again after the coldest part of our winter but guess im going to jave to wait a week or two. Just real angering that i was sold something that can give me scoliosis with no warning and even a q&a answer that said that it was totally safe to use. But i dont want to die so i guess I'll do that. Should i he worried if i used it for anout 50 minutes today without knowing all this? What is the fastest and cheapest way to get some refractory cement? Would buying fire bricks be worth it when it comes to the longevity of the liner vs the price?

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It may have been rigidized. You can order refractory here just PM Glenn. If it was rigidized it's safe to use but it won't last. Ceramic blanket is fragile when it's at forging temperatures. Here's some info about the kast-o-lite 30. PM Glenn if you decide to order some. IFI sells small quantities.

 

Pnut

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Ok, seriously THANK U! It is a lot more rigit that ao6me replacement complimentary 'wool' that came with. it and it is pretty hard and i think it was rigidized. So how do i know when its wearing out? 

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Take a good picture of the lining if you could for us.

It may not be a bad idea to make a thread over in the gas forge section pertaining to your little flamethrower, and/or do some perusing through there. Good info to be had all-around, including about wool lining, rigidizers, refractory, etc. 

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Conrad, this can happen with 4140.. Kinda a normal thing every so often.. Wow, that is exciting a paying gig on a regular basis.. Fingers crossed.. 

I personally like 4140 tooling for durability better than 1045. I'd rather spend the time to do a laminate of a harder face (5160, 1060, 1080) still for my own personal hammers.. 

Though once the school opens up 1045 will be the material of choice. 

Billy, nice work..   The buggles are normal in this type of item..  Looks like 1/8" flat strap. 

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Jlp I do agree that 4140 (when heat treated correctly) is a little better than 1045 but 1045 is really easy to treat. Just d uh no in a water bucket! I'm also excited about Pieh tool. It will just be hard to make enough hammers while I'm in school. I really need to get my Kerrihard running.

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Spent the day learning things.  I learned that it's darn difficult to see temps in bright sunlight. I learned that by burning my work to a cinder, thinking it was too cold to weld. It just didn't look right temp in the daylight, looked too red. Needless to say, it's ruined.  So, I grabbed an old kingpin  that I'd replaced in my pickup, and spent the rest of the afternoon playing with different heat in the bright sunlight.  Made a square on one end so I could get a good grip with the tongs, and worked the other end to a square, then back round(ish), then back square, then a rectangle.  I found that what appears to be good forging temp on a cloudy day, is durn near welding temp in the bright sun. I ended up drawing out a 3/8x6x3/8 square, and decided to save the rest of the round stock for something else. so I cut it off, by heating, and using the edge of the anvil, to score it, and broke it off.  Then it dawned on me what that saved chunk of round stock wants to be, a hot cut hardy.   But that will wait 'till another day, because this piece of square stock is screaming at me right now. It wants to be something, but I don't know what yet. so I draw it down to 3/8x1/4, and fold it, (here's where I learn something) I get it about 90* and wire brush it, then fold it on over tight, back in the heat, then a bit of flux, then back in the heat. At a dull orange, I pull it out and weld it together. It looked good.  In bright sunlight, dull orange, would be bright yellow to dull white in the shade.  From that point, I just heat and beat, until it starts to become what it wants to be. Looks like it will become another letter opener.  I was hoping for something useful, like a bottle opener, or a hot punch. But hey, steel knows what it wants to be, I just help it along. 

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If you ended up working a king pin out of an old truck then good for you..  They were usually made from hardened steel.. sometimes surface hardened medium carbon steel up to like a 1070 steel. 

An old secret is just keep an empty metal or plastic (if your careful) 5 gallon bucket handy to thrust the metal inside to see the true color..  I used to keep one mounted to the side of the stack for it to be handy..  when I moved to a super sucker type or smoke shelf type, you can just stick it in the cavity to see the color.  

For welding temps in the sunlight give up even seeing it..  Just use a welding test rod..   I use them all time even when not in direct sunlight..  super cheap, super easy to use and they can be used in a gas forge or a any other type of fuel forge. 

Just a straight poker with a flattened end on it..   touch it to the metal at welding temp and it will stick. 

7 hours ago, Conrad.blacksmithing said:

Jlp I do agree that 4140 (when heat treated correctly) is a little better than 1045 but 1045 is really easy to treat. Just d uh no in a water bucket! I'm also excited about Pieh tool. It will just be hard to make enough hammers while I'm in school. I really need to get my Kerrihard running.

You just gotta get one of you buddies to come over.. Case of beer and/or smokes..  Put him to work..  Once things get worked out and you find a rhythm it's not so bad.  

1045 is stupid easy.. I have used oil as a quench and then I don't even both to temper them.. 

When is the first batch due? 

Yes, the hammer would help for sure.. 

 

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14 minutes ago, jlpservicesinc said:

When is the first batch due? 

I still have to work out pricing but as soon as I'm done with an axe order I will start pumping them out to get ready. I'm having trouble trying to figure out how much I should sell them for. There are so many variables that I have to consider (I'm relatively new and don't have a big name, shipping, and Pieh's 40% commission).

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Came into my shop tonight to find that my 30gallon metal slack barrel developed a leak about 4" from the bottom. Floor is a bit wet but thankfully it warmed up a bit and it isn't frozen water. now to figure which of my many new slack tub options I want to go with. 

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Das, you can weld.. Just patch it till something falls in your lap.. Sadly I think you have the freezing shop problem as well as I do in the trailer..  You want something that will withstand the influence of frozen ice.. 

Conrad, how long does it take you to completely finish a hammer?

 

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Conrad, congrats on the job. I have a question about it, what about warranty? Do not to forget to figure that in. 

Jennifer, thanks for the kind words. From you they mean a lot. Yes it is just  1/8 strap. 

Anyway, another day of basics. Round to square, more tapers, etc. I figured out though that i am rushing. Trying to hurry up ad get things done rather than just have fun doing it. Then discovered that if i pay attention and take my time it actually speeds up. 

So i made my first treble hook, i did cheat and use the welder on the top inch or so but the rest is forge welded, 2 pieces of garage door spring. One of the peneluliareruilotsbne... (how ever it is spelled) brooches, and an S hook, they started as 3/8 round. 

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Made a rake to better help my learning curve with the fire. Twisted with a combo wrench and crescent wrench. No vise in the garage. Went pretty well, couple whacks with a block of wood to straighten and it was good. 

Couple more horses heads, proportion practice and efficiency practice. 

Upset the end of a section of the rebar I was given, then rounded it to better move the cheeks. 

Made a hook for the heck of it too.

6 hours of practice with the fire, the work, etc. Good day I think. 

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1 minute ago, CtG said:

Twisted with a combo wrench and crescent wrench. No vise in the garage.

I made my first pair of twist tongs using a crescent wrench and a pair of channel locks. I made a vise type thing after that out of a log a couple pieces of angle iron and a scissor jack so I didn't have to do it that way again.;)

Pnut

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JLP, never had an issue with freezing really. The 30gal. Drum held up well to that for years. Never froze more than an inch or so on the top at the worst times. It succumbed to rust. I Could weld it but might be a losing game on that one. Had a thick tank from a water heater but had cut it to make a wood burner. Have some air tanks from compressors but the best one for the job is too nice to cut and I've had plans to use it for another compressor to make it functional. Got another 30gal. drum in questionable condition. Then I have a squareish box made of 1/4" plate that my brother have me in his move. Seems well welded and is 17"x15"x20"deep. Decided to drag it down to the shop and am water testing it now. So far so good on the bottom welds. Will see on the side welds if I use it. I can deffinately weld this one and being 1/4" plate I think it can take a lil abuse from freezing a bit if the drum did. Just want to set it higher, probably on a milk crate or something. 20200202_194242.thumb.jpg.ee52759bb79cde4b751037c0c9318f42.jpg

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Nice work guys. 

Billy,   on the treble hook just line up all the rods at the same length and hold them with tongs or wrap them tight with wire..  The video of me winning the fitchburg forge is the first item to forge was a treble herb hook..  The video is on the YT channel. 

The broach looks great..  2 things I have never made is a bottle opener nor a broach. :) 

CTG I love the forge.. Sweet..  Nice design. perfect for charcoal. 

Oh, Billy I wanted to mention.. 1/8" strap is a little thin.. it will bend in use if used for cooking..  I learned this the hard way..  It then figured out I can go to a thicker stock and can do a little bit more with it.. 

Das, steel drums are pretty thin..  Your lucky you can get away with a lighter something, something..   In the trailer I used the bottom of a 100 gallon propane tank which is about 3/16" thick  and it has lasted a very long time even with acidic water..     

I really like the stainless steel kegs or the older alum kegs if they are wide and tall enough..    In the  trailer room is at a premium so the propane tank was about as large diameter as I'd want it to be.  it will hold about 40 gallons of water.. 

In the trailer nearly all winter the whole thing is frozen solid.  It's been in the low 40's here for 5 days and it's still frozen solid.. 

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