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I Forge Iron

What did you do in the shop today?


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Donniev, are those copper inlays or rivets? Nice touch.

Jimmyiorn, nice hammers. Let me know if you would be interested  in selling one sometime in the future.  Interesting name, I nearly misspelled it by reading what I wanted to see and not what was written.

Pnut

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On ‎8‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 5:04 PM, BillyBones said:

Frosty, you have eyes in your hands?

How does that song go? 'Keep your hands on the road and your eyes upon the wheel'? Every time I grab the steering wheel, I poke my self in the eye:rolleyes:.

Always more awesomeness on this thread than I am able to compliment. So here is my cheesy contribution:

 

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Took 10 minutes to form the prototype bell.  Took everything I had to not take it to the anvil at 2:00 a.m. to tune it :rolleyes:.

Robert Taylor

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This was yesterday, not today, but I fixed  the feed rate cylinder on my bandsaw (disassembled it, cleaned out some nasty sludge, replaced a couple of O-rings, replaced the fluid, and reassembled it), put on the blade that came in the mail, and fired it up. 

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The motor I put on it (a cheap 1/3 hp I had on hand) doesn’t have much oomph, so it tends to bog down. I’ll have to see about replacing that soon. 

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It’s not that it doesn’t work at all; it’s just that I can’t run it at a decent feed speed if the cutting area is more than about 1/4” long. In fact, the motor won’t even get the saw running unless I give a yank on the V-belt. Still, I cut some 1-1/2” pieces of 1” pipe to add to my punch rack,  and even though it ran slow, it was cleaner, quieter, and more accurate than using a cutoff disk on the angle grinder. 

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Yea, replace the motor and you'll be good to go.  Wish motors weren't so expensive to buy and risky to purchase used.........................'cause I've got a need for several in the 3/4 to 1hp range.

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JHCC 1/3HP isn't nearly large enough.. You are going to burn it out in no time..  3/4hp is about the smallest that will work well..   the other factor is band speed..  The recommended band speeds for that kind of saw are pretty important for life of blades.  slower is better than faster with carbon steel blades.. when you get into HSS you can sometimes run them a little harder..  Doall had a free  wall chart  they offered on their website which I had recommended to a few people to pick up..  You might want to head over there and see if they have any left. 

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Ok, so here goes.

i meant to post this yesterday but was to lazy. But here is the finished set of skewers. The 2 on the left are my rejects.There are also 2 in the dish drainer that i had used. Also another hawk i finished. Got a few now but great welding practice. 

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Whoops, i laid them out wrong the 3rd one to the right got rejected for the far left one. Not all the same but that is what was wanted. I am pretty proud of them cause they are the 1st thing i have sold.

 

 

 

 

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A couple tips John. Yeah, 1/3 HP is way weak but slow the feed till it's barely moving and it'll cut but YES replace it before you fry that one. When you say it wouldn't start without cutting pulling on the V belt, you're telling me you're starting the saw with the blade in contact with the stock. Do NOT DO THAT!! Always, ALWAYS start the saw with the blade above the stock, then open the 1/4 turn feed valve, not the feed adjustment valve. Yes? 

Lastly, move the guide rolls as close to the stock as possible and still clears the vise. This will help it cut straight and reduce wear on the guide rolls. The longer the blade between the rolls the more it can flex which WILL dull teeth on one side faster making it cut a curve, the increased leverage on the rolls will increase wear rate. The roll closest to the motor doesn't adjust much except for square to the table and vise. The roll on the far side of the vise is made to move easily and frequently, there is a thumb screw above the slide. I hope you DIDN'T paint the slide! :wacko: It'd be like painting the ways on a lathe, if so you need to clean them off and give them the occasional DROP of 3 in 1 weight oil. 

You're going to LOVE that little saw once you get it squared away. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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37 minutes ago, Frosty said:

When you say it wouldn't start without cutting pulling on the V belt, you're telling me you're starting the saw with the blade in contact with the stock.

Not at all. That’s with the blade above the stock, not in contact. The motor doesn’t have the oomph to overcome the inertia of the saw mechanism on its own without a little extra push. 

37 minutes ago, Frosty said:

then open the 1/4 turn feed valve, not the feed adjustment valve. Yes

Same valve. There’s one knob on top of the feed cylinder that both locks the saw frame in the up position and then releases it and sets the feed rate when you back it off. 

38 minutes ago, Frosty said:

I hope you DIDN'T paint the slide! :wacko:

Nope. 

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there is a lot of resistance for such a small motor..    the motor on the New to me Canedy - Otto New Model 16 needs to be spurred in action as well but it's 100 years old..  LOL.. 

It was a factory-installed motor so often wonder if it always needed to be spun over by hand to start it or just worn. 

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