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I Forge Iron

What did you do in the shop today?


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Out of the shop again today.  Install of a fabbed railing.  It will have a wooden top cap, epoxy was drying in the holes in the treads thus the prop sticks to set rail elevations. Math for the layout was fun, other than that it was just tig welding.  No forging.  Sad.

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Finished forging this hammer eye punch today out of H13. Wrapped the end in a water soaked rag for heat treat, and got it handled. I've got all the tools necessary to make a few hammer for myself now, can't wait!

The cheeks are a little thinner than I'd like them to be, next one I make I'll use a wider slitter, the one I used was only 3/8" or so wide- hindsights always 20/20 right?

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Very nice forge and a lucky friend who has someone make his forge for him!!  A couple of suggestions.  First block off the opening of the baffles nearest the firepot.  Otherwise, he'll have his coke and coal spilling out all over the floor.  Second, make permanent or removable edges for the table to help keep the coal on the table.  You can make them out of angle iron and use 1/4" bolts to hold them on (or weld them), or weld flat bar stock vertically along the edges.  Leave openings for horizontal work to lay across the firepot.  He'll thank you.

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thanks, Arkie. I get what you are saying about the sides. i left the back open on purpose allow for heating the center of a long piece, but i could see why it would be smart to have a removable "door" over it for normal use. I was limited on material, that is why i only did a rail on the side that needs it worst. all the materials were from my scrap pile, so they didn't cost me a dime. I may go back and add some more sides when i get around to it and have the material ......

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I hear what you are saying about leaving the opening on the back, but in reality, shoving and moving a workpiece through that opening so close to the fire and forge edge will still result in spilling coal/coke off the forge.  You need to mound up the coke over the firepot.  Making the openings for horizontal work on the sides gives you more latitude to move the work without spilling coal and coke.

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Forged a few pyramid head spikes for a new house build. Owner is building a mantel using old bridge timber and didn't want shiny cup head or hex head bolts sticking out. These are old bolts from a mineshaft reshaped to a pyramid. He wanted them rough looking to match the old timbers. A couple were wrought iron and didn't like being drawn to a point, so I 'drew'  the last bit out with an angle grinder. Anyway, they'll do the job.

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As a thank-you to the guys from the construction company who let me salvage the leftover structural steel from the college's hotel project, I turned one of the pieces of rebar into a little rattlesnake.

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42 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

if you forge the tail down into a rattail you can punch holes in bottle caps and thread them loosely on it and make a curl at the top to hold them on.  Done properly it will sound like a rattlesnake when shook up and down.

Good to know. Maybe next time.

 

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I'm headed out to the shop in a minute. I found a treadmill for cheap with a 2.5hp, 7,000rpm DC motor at a yard sale Thursday and brought it home. Friday I started taking it apart but got called off and didn't get the motor out till yesterday. Have any of you seen the circuitry and wiring in one of these things?! :o

Anybody out there have an idea what it needs to work on a belt grinder? Speed control would be nice but I don't need a lap counter or programmed work out routines to tilt the treadmill and change speeds. Of course that might make for interesting grinds. :unsure:

Frosty The Lucky.

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I'm rebuilding a propane forge that it was time to reline; adding legs and a handle, etc.  The fun part is this is my "no welding or fancy tools needed forge" so the legs came off some ornamental iron that was in the scrapyard, the burner holder was a piece of pipe split on the end and the tabs folded out and riveted to the helium can that was at the scrapyard too. The rivets were some 20P nails I removed from a load of dunnage blocks we burned in the woodstove---nails removed first and thrown in a bucket for such use. The positioner for the burner was a pipe clamp from the scrapyard. So far a hacksaw and a drill are the major tools used...

Won't be as pretty as some of the ones we get here; but when done it will work well and put paid to the "I can't build a forge cause I can't weld, don't have fancy tools, etc and so on crowd---I mentioned it's already been used enough to need a reline!

Now I do admit I'm cheating on the burner; I had a premade burner on hand that I'm using for this forge.  There is enough "build your own burner info here that I'm not needing to make that point.  The regulator came from the fleamarket though and the T rated hose came from a yardsale where a fellow had 2 propane hose setups in the original packaging... Kaowool was from a scrapyard too. So total cost of everything except the burner and the liner coating will be under US$20

I'm not putting a pass through as this is designed as a simple knife forge for my classes and it's my excuse as to why everyone can't make swords the first time they put a hammer to hot steel!

(I'm also trying to hide this from my wife as she thinks I should be recuperating more and working less and I think that sitting around documenting how many times my ISP drops service in an hour is driving me *more* into madness!   My Dr said to walk; so I'm walking to and from the workbench and the scrap pile and the postvise!)

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Just don't overdo it Thomas or I'll tell the missus you're being naughty.  

I got a couple more bits off the treadmill, it's like they don't want you to take it apart if you don't know the combination and have the secret wrench. I got the motor out yesterday largely by main force, after getting it unbolted it wouldn't clear the cover, bits and bobs.

Today I went out with a sharpie, pasteboard and wire for tags and started breaking it down farther. I unscrewed the press board the circuit board was screwed to and guess what I found in a plastic envelope taped underneath? Low and Behold a wiring diagram! 

Ahhh, a functioning 2" x 72" belt grinder just got a lot closer. It might be a flashy model with an instrument board control panel and blinky lights. :) 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Frosty, I just dismantled a lesser treadmill. I forget now exactly what the motor was but I think it was under 1hp. This one was fairly simple and I'll have to figure something to do with it. I had a Much better treadmill but gave it away to a friend that wanted to use it. I hate running on the things myself. I told my friend if he goes to get rid of it I want it back for parts lol. 

Today in the shop, as all week, I have been cleaning and reorganizing. I've been working around "stuff" in there that had no point being in there so just today I removed 3 engines and 2 transmissions. I'm starting to see floor space. :) 

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That gazebo is safe now.

You were consistent with the eye spikes. Maybe the hook ones would benefit from a bit of a swan neck to direct the downward force over the shaft. Just a suggestion.

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Thanks Smoggy and Ausfire.

1 hour ago, ausfire said:

Maybe the hook ones would benefit from a bit of a Swan neck

I will try that they are going to get used a lot.

10 hours ago, Smoggy said:

They should do nicely, HD tent pegs are a good use for rebar.

Well that's what I thought I have got a pile of old rebar and this just seemed ideal.

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