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I Forge Iron

What did you do in the shop today?


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Got the end of the tuyere cut off, cut a new faceplate, and started drilling out the hole for the air pipe. After several frustrating hours of coaching my ASD son through his homework, it was a relief to get into the shop. 

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Built a fullering tool.  Not sure if it has a name, but plan on using it like a spring fuller.  I have not yet rounded the dies.  considering leaving a flat section as well.  with the staggered spacings I can get from about 1/4 up to 5 inches in 1/2 inch increments.  

forge127a.jpg

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On 4/17/2018 at 9:55 PM, JHCC said:

Welded up the new face plate for the tuyere. Tight as a drum!

What is the diameter of the hole in the faceplate?  Mine is a bit too small at 5/8”.  I have since learned that between 3/4” and 1” is better and matches traditional designs.

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from what I have read..  The tube inside the Tue iron should taper from about 3" down to the 1-1.25"  thus increasing the velocity of the air as well..  

there is a ratio for a traditionally designed blower..  If you completely close off the air duct the blower will become super easy to turn as the fan blades just egg beat the air inside..  Yet if you open the end of it completely to atmospere,  it will get quite a bit harder vs having it connected to the tuyere in regular fashion..  

I always thought it was pretty neat.. I based the opening on the side blast I made years ago on this factor..  Bottom blast vs side blast that is.. 

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Nice...I’m envious.  As an aside, the walls of your tuyere shroud are much thicker than mine.  I built a bosh that can hold 20 gallons of water because everything I read said it was necessary.  However, even with the thinner walls my water never boils and I only keep it about 1/3 full.  You don’t need to make a huge bosh unless, of course, you plan on using it for making soup.

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8 minutes ago, jlpservicesinc said:

JHCC are you going to do a complete redesign on the JBOD?

I’m seriously thinking about it. My steel supplier has some big chunks of sheet that I can get for cheap (before Lisa spends our  whole tax refund on yarn). I could just put the new tuyere into the JABOD, but I’m more and more tempted to seize the opportunity to build an all-steel forge. 

13 minutes ago, Lou L said:

I built a bosh that can hold 20 gallons of water because everything I read said it was necessary.

The one I have planned will hold about 12 gallons. That’s not including the tuyere itself, which holds another two. So long as I don’t let it boil out completely, I should be fine. 

17 minutes ago, Lou L said:

You don’t need to make a huge bosh unless, of course, you plan on using it for making soup.

That’s why I have a slow cooker. 

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Significant progress. The tuyere and bosh are almost entirely welded up, although I haven’t yet checked for leaks. 

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That bit of pipe is for the drain and will have a valve screwed on later. I’ll probably go Lou’s route of caulking the tank with silicone.

Also made the decision to go ahead with a new forge. Bought the metal and welded up the pan.

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3 hours ago, Stitch said:

Those welds are looking way better John!

That one weld on the tank is actually the worst on the whole project: it seems like all the problems that could have cropped up on the others were saving themselves for this one. I think I’m going to have to weld over it a few times to get it acceptable.

This project is the first time I’ve welded sheet, and it’s definitely a learning experience.

3 hours ago, Stitch said:

How many miles of wire have you gone through as of yet?

Not sure, but that 10 pound roll of .035 flux-core was definitely a good investment!

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3 hours ago, JHCC said:

This project is the first time I’ve welded sheet, and it’s definitely a learning experience.

Yeah you need to dial it it just right on sheet metal. To hot and you'll burn through. Not not enough and you don't get the penetration and have a bigger bead on the outer surface. It'll help to use scrap pieces to test on and dial it in before you go to the main piece. 

 

Stitch, Hans, cool stuff ! 

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38 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

Yeah you need to dial it it just right on sheet metal.

My biggest problem has been how much it’s been moving around, and what fit nicely before welding gets out of whack mid-weld. I’m seeing the wisdom of welding clamps. 

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Ah, there's the other fun part of welding sheet. Keep it as cool as possible to keep from warping. Get the pieces lined up and just tack it together then stitch weld it Skipping areas and moving to another area while the last one cools, then back again. 

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The other issue is shrinkage of the weld bead. As it cools it shrinks and pulls the two pieces together. Size of bead, thickness of the items being welded, alloy (stainless is really squirrely), all affect the outcome. Peening the welds will spread them out and help to flatten things backout. I have seen that done by old school body and fender guys to keep a car panel straight.  For sheet I liked .023" bare wire with a gas.

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Yesterday I finally, after a way too long hiatus, started forging a leaf. A friend had set up a GFSO(gas forge shaped object), an incredible construction of inefficient decisions; small weed burner for heat, oven mortar+crushed firebrick lining, you get my drift. At least we had proper PPE!

I did try to nudge him to the gas forges section here and warned him about the peril that is king of randumb(and youtube in general), we'll see how it goes. You can lead man to knowledge...

Well, results were as expected. I was drawing out the stem when the leaf broke off due severe cold shuts and oxidation. The guy had a pristine 5 kg anvil with razor sharp edges, so I wasn't exactly surprised to see this happen. The surprise was when instead. I was around 15 cm away from the leaf part when it just -plöp- fell off.

I think I might start building a workspace tomorrow if life allows it. I feel somewhat stunted working on someone else's space. My shop, my rules after all. Today was busy making food, building siege engines from Duplo and playing hide and seek with the kid. Forging a stronger father-daughter bond counts too, right?

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Cut side slots on my JABOD.

Shortened the reins on a pair of tongs.

Finally, made my first leaf:

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I really should have made myself a chisel first. As it is, I used the side of my coal rake to make the veins. A small-diameter fuller would also be useful, since the edges of my anvil are a bit too rounded for a sharper transition between the leaf and the stem.

Still, that was a satisfying first attempt. :)

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