jlpservicesinc Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 15 hours ago, Zeroclick said: Then had a bit of a practice at one of the none welded rings JLP showed on a video. I didn't have any 2 inch material so used 1 inch just for a bit of practice. wow, Nice job.. that is a tough technique to use on that narrow of material.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfeile Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 18 hours ago, 58er said: Coat hanger for customer That looks absolutely stunning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 58er, my concern on the coat rack is the square ends on the hooks. It is better to have those rounded or mushroomed to avoid holes in the fabric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeroclick Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 7 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said: wow, Nice job.. that is a tough technique to use on that narrow of material.. Thank you it was a lot of fun and a real learning experience. I wish I had got my initial cut a bit more even. And thanks again for the videos wouldnt have known where to even start without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Thanks and my pleasure.. A skill set like this usually takes a few times to figure out all the little quirks and personally working in a smaller size makes it even harder.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveGas Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Hung my first attempt at a chandelier today. Weighed in at 72 pounds. Still waiting for the wax candle covers to arrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Nice work Davegas, much better than anything I could ever make electrified.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Very nice Dave, VERY. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Awesome Dave! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Very nice indeed. It will look even greater when it's decorated for Christmas! Did you do the wiring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFC Snuffy Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 From last week: My second attempt at a hair retainer/barrette/thing, using 3/16" round stock. I've never forged anything that small before, it was interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Beautiful work on the chandelier, Dave. Clever how you have concealed the wiring. Nice finish, too. Oiled? Waxed? Rustoleum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Stephens Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Hi SFC Snuffy, Very nice. Years ago I made some of these for my daughter and her friends, they did not like the weight of steel, so I switched to aluminum. Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 On 4/14/2018 at 8:02 PM, Daswulf said: That's a beast John. Thanks, Das. Unfortunately, it's got a slow leak where the air pipe meets the face plate, right in the only spot that I can't reach with the welder. I've made the hard decision to cut off the face plate, make a new one with a better connection, and weld that on. More work, but probably worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 33 minutes ago, JHCC said: Thanks, Das. Unfortunately, it's got a slow leak where the air pipe meets the face plate, right in the only spot that I can't reach with the welder. I've made the hard decision to cut off the face plate, make a new one with a better connection, and weld that on. More work, but probably worth it. How about brazing the leak? It isn't going to get hot enough to break the braze unless you REALLY screwed up something. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Three reasons: I really want it to be right, not just "good enough". I already tried welding over the leak from the outside, and the only result was to reduce the size of the air outlet. I don't think brazing will be any better. I don't have a torch. Frankly, cutting it off and fitting and welding a new faceplate is the right way to go. If I do it right, I'll get something that not only doesn't leak, but also has the proper air pipe diameter. I knew the way to do it right the first time, I cut corners, and now I'm paying the price. Ideo firmiter propono de cetero me non peccaturum peccandique occasiones proximas fugiturum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 I'm not talking about welding the leak I'm talking about brazing it. An acid wash to clean out the scale and contaminants from failed welds or carried in by leaks then paste brazing solder and BRAZE hard solder. The paste flux will flow into the gaps via capillarity as you preheat it as will the brazing rod. A good silver solder will do the trick, you aren't getting the bosh red hot in use, the water will keep it well below hard soldering temp. The try will be far cheaper in time and materials than rebuilding the whole thing. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Stick or mig welding unless you have a bunch of practice it's pretty hard to get a good water tight seal without a lot of testing, grinding and rewelding.. TIG welding is the only way to get a consistently sealed water/air tight seal.. If the hole is small enough using a Bar's leak head gasket sealant can be the answer if you can pressurize it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Here’s what I should have done the first time. This is the connection between the arm of the treadle hammer and its head, nice and watertight to prevent leaks from the melted lead pour. The pipe pierces the wall of the tube and is fillet welded on both sides. 1 hour ago, jlpservicesinc said: it's pretty hard to get a good water tight seal without a lot of testing, grinding and rewelding.. And that’s how I get better at all three! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubba682 Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 What about JB Weld... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveGas Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 18 hours ago, ThomasPowers said: Very nice indeed. It will look even greater when it's decorated for Christmas! Did you do the wiring? Yes I did. I used 18 guage wire as I'm using LED bulbs and only have .8 amps / 103 watts. Had it lighted for 5 days straight and checked for heat damage, so far so good. 11 hours ago, ausfire said: Beautiful work on the chandelier, Dave. Clever how you have concealed the wiring. Nice finish, too. Oiled? Waxed? Rustoleum? Oiled (cooking oil from Sam's club) then finished with a Krylon satin finish clear coat. Had to buy a propane rose bud torch and a cheap mop... Made a massive mess but got some bronze, brown, red, and blacks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Oil And clear coat!? Not really a good combination. You want the piece as clean as possible of dirt, oils, grease, and anything really before using any paint, clear oar included. Otherwise the paint will not adhere correctly and eventually peel off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveGas Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 I soaked it in my pond after applying the oil, dried it, then hit it with degreaser. Kept wiping til there was no residue left then applied the clear coat. The color remained and the residue was gone so I'm hoping it holds up. I had to manhandle it to hang it and definitely smacked it with plies and wire strippers quite a few times and didn't loose the finish so it should be okay. If not, I know someone who can take it down and try it again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Ah, ok. As long as you degreased it first should be fine. I just thought oil then right to clearcoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveGas Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 I also left a feast for the local tribe of raccoons where I oiled it. This whole project was a major learning experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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