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I Forge Iron

What did you do in the shop today?


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7 hours ago, JHCC said:
7 hours ago, Glenn said:

JHCC, Construct a bar that locks the hammer head into the UP position. This would lock the end of the hammer handle at the spring to hammer connection solidly to the stand. Without that lock, the hammer can be accidentally activated, or activated by grabbing hold of, or leaning on, the hammer head.

There’s a safety chain that wraps around the mast to lock the hammer up when not in use. I’ll post a picture later. 

Also, the safety chain holds the hammer head higher up and farther out than its in-use position to provide clearance for hand forging. It also makes it fairly easy to disconnect the springs entirely and rest the head on the anvil, rendering it completely safe.

 

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Been "remodeling" the shop a little today to make room for a couple new additions. Finally got the post drill set up that @Tubalcain2 gave me (thanks, bro!!), and moved the work table over to make room for a new stump to mount my larger vise to. Also fixed up the leg vise I got from Littleblacksmith and made a portable stand for it. It's super handy now to have a second vise that can be wheeled around like a dolly. Also, when set on it's side, it makes for a sturdy horizontal vise which is something I have wished I had many times. Made a large guillotine fuller after that. The rounding hammer is an insanely awesome 3 pounder that @littleblacksmith sent me, made my him and @BOUNTY FORGE. THANKS GUYS!!!

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1 hour ago, C-1ToolSteel said:

Been "remodeling" the shop a little today to make room for a couple new additions. . THANKS GUYS!!!

Love all your stuff man! I especially like the leg vice stand and the guillotine. It looks like you put a lot of thought into the stand and I like that it's on wheels. The side being open on the guillotine is a great idea too. I might have to steel those ideas when I make my own....if I ever get around to it.

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Nice set up C-1. The vice would be really handy for outside demos away from the forge. I have to take a bench vice which doesn't work as well as a leg vice. And I must be missing something with the horizontal modification. What are you doing that would need it set up that way?

Great guillotine, too. Very robust!

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16 hours ago, Hans Richter said:

Looks good JHCC !!! whats the final weight of the hammer head? Cheers, Hans

35-40 pounds was a good guess. 

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(This is with the springs disconnected and the full weight of the hammer head resting on the scale.)

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Thanks guys! 

@ausfire Not for any one thing in particular. Sometimes I just have to break down and use C clamps or put up with an awkward angle (when filing, drilling, grinding, rasping, etc.) When it seems like a horizontal vise would solve the problem. Time will tell if it actually gets used that way very much.

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Got my hardy planishing stake ( is that the right term?) sanded down and it hardened up great. Made from 1 1/4" torsion bar end. After upsetting and rounding the nub end it came out to 2 1/4" diameter. it should work great for what I need it for. An if not I'll sell it to an armor maker lol. 

First picture is final forged. Second two are cleaned up after hardening. 

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After work I hustled out to the forge and made a little valentine trinket for my sweetheart out of some 1/8” round stock I have (I totally forgot what day it was and had to scramble :rolleyes:).

She got a cord and made it into a pendant. I know it’s a very simple thing, but she really likes it when I make her something like this. 

 

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Shady, I'll have to borrow that idea. :) 

tested out the hardy tool. My main idea was I needed to make some skulls so I gave it a sorta quick try tonight. It's working great! 3 1/2"id 3/16" thick pipe cut in half. Untouched on the right. Worked on the left. I'm supper happy with it. Might have to get into armour like I always wanted lol. No deformation to the tool. Awesome!

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Heated the top area and placed it on the anvil and hammered on the cold area down. Correct and continue.  It is useful for many purposes like planishing and curving plate. ( hard for me to explain. ) 

Imagine the bottom at the anvil it hot and you hammer down at the top. Rotate and correct unevenness as needed. 

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Upsetting on thick stock is actually easier then thin stock. Just takes longer to get up to temp. Either way the better you correct it getting wonky as you go the better. 

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44 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

10 1/4" total length and 8" up from the face of the anvil. 

Hmm. I have a piece of torsion bar that might work, but it’s short. I might weld on a hardy stem, or — more likely — use a section of axle. Be interesting to try upsetting under the treadle hammer. 

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