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What did you do in the shop today?


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17 hours ago, Daswulf said:

Aus, are the eyes punched on the shifty lizzard? That old rebar worked out great for the tail. Have you tried out electrolysis yet? 

Yes, the shifty lizard has punched eyes. If I want the shifter to remain operational (they are good for holding business cards in his mouth) I will weld a blob for the eye with the MIG, because the punching will often lock up the jaw mechanism. I also forge down the two small projections at the bottom of the adjuster to avoid rattling on el cheapo shifters.

No, I haven't tried the electrolysis yet. I have a lot of old weathered rebar that could benefit form a dose of that. On the 'to do' list.

Nice business end on that poker, Das. That's what I aspire to.

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Aus, that's the first time I got a poker welded where it didn't want to peel open when I bent back the rear point. To be honest I haven't tried one in a while either. 

I see what you mean on the shifty lizards. I have one started that I have been meaning to get welded up. 

Stitch, I'll have to look into that pallet buster. I have a couple piles I need to break down. Looks simple enough to build. Kind of like a T post puller, I saw how simple it was and just built my own. 

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1 hour ago, Daswulf said:

Aus, that's the first time I got a poker welded where it didn't want to peel open when I bent back the rear point. To be honest I haven't tried one in a while either. 

I see what you mean on the shifty lizards. I have one started that I have been meaning to get welded up. 

Stitch, I'll have to look into that pallet buster. I have a couple piles I need to break down. Looks simple enough to build. Kind of like a T post puller, I saw how simple it was and just built my own. 

Here's the sketch I drew for the one I made Das...... The dimensions are pretty wide open.

 

P_B_SKETCH.jpg

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You may want to look at the pallets you intend to disassemble. The rails are usually single width or double width 2 x 4's. The 3-1/2 inch spacing should handle both. Some heavy pallets use solid rails that can be wider. 

The pivot point of the tool can be improved by cutting a long section out of a piece of pipe and then fitting and welding the pipe to the back of the tool so the leverage pivots on the pipe.

This type tool fits under the pallet slat lifts the slat against a single nail at a time, sometimes splitting the wood. If you make the tool so it lifts against the entire slat it will lift against all the nails at the same time.  For firewood it does not matter. Some people reuse the wood and do not care for split ends. Either way the nails can either come out with the slat, or get pulled through the slat and remain in the rail. Nails can be a bear to remove as they are many times screw shank, ring shank, or glue coated nails. 

Easiest way to remove the slats from the rails is to work on the outside rails first, then work on the center rail. A short handle will kill your back from bending over. A tool long handle provides great leverage but will wear you our with use. The proper length handle makes the tool easy to use. Put a round cap or end on the handle and make sure it has a very smooth surface.  

There will be pallets that are stubborn and do not want to be taken apart. There is no reason to fight with the pallet. Put these pallets off to the side and move on to the next pallet. When you get a stack of the stubborn pallets, use the other tool to finish taking them apart. Suggested candidates are a circular saw, saws all, or a chain saw. 

Heat Treating, Pallets and Safety info

https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/53358-heat-treating-pallets-and-safety-info/?tab=comments#comment-571490

 

If you use old pallets, be VERY careful how those pallets were used in a previous life. Choose clean pallets rather than pallets that have unknown chemicals spilled on them. The idea is to have fun, not kill yourself.  

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Greetings Stitch,

          Thought I would pass on my vice welding table.  Simple 1/4 stock “T” with a circle cut out .. Makes it nice for multi position and butt welding .  Make one up you will love it. 

Forge on and make beautiful things 

Jim

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Good advise Glenn. I've read that pallet thread and even passed on the info to a friend that sometimes uses pallet wood for projects. 

I will look at my pallet construction before making the tool. I think this tool will save me a lot of tear down with the sawsall. 

 

Like the vise mounted mini welding tables as well. I'll be making one of those for sure. 

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Das, even with the slats separated from the rails, you still have to buck them up into stove length wood. Put the slats back to back with the nails sticking out and cut two at a time. You can put the rails side by side and cut them two at a time. 

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Great advice Glen! I'll pass it on. Jim, that welding table is pure genius!  I will make the mod. Thanks!

John, Your welds are looking much better! "Sometimes you bite the Bear, sometimes the Bear bites you" Das!

 

 

"Veni, Vidi, Velcro". 
(I came, I saw, I stuck around.) 

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8 hours ago, Stitch said:

John, Your welds are looking much better!

Thanks, Jerry. It's been an adventure!

Oh, and thanks for posting the picture of the vise-held welding table, @Jim Coke. I realized that one of the chunks of structural steel I had kicking around would be perfect for this use, which made yesterday's welding go SO much easier!

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Last Saturday the lady and I were trying out a new babysitter for the kids so we wanted to stay fairly close to the house, just in case. We had a little welding date and made a bench she’d wanted to make. The Lady did the welding, only her second time to weld, and I did the grinding, blending and wood work. The wood, although not the best quality or prettiest, is neat since it came out of an abandon silver mine near Pierce, Az that we came across and explored while we were dating. 

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Only had a few moments in the shop this evening, so quickly strung up some springs on the treadle hammer to think about attachments and linkages. No photos and a lot more work to do, but it was a magical moment, feeling this assemblage of odd bits of welded and articulated metal turning into a live thing. 

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I made an Ulu. It's my third attempt at this type of blade, and it's the closest I've come to success... Everything went great until I got to final sharpening... Then I saw the fine little crack in the blade. :(

I stopped at that point. If I'm going to keep it and use it with the little crack, I  still need to finish the final polish and clean off the rouge that's covering the blade. Kinda bummed as the forging, hear treat, tempering, and the handle making/riveting all seemed to go do well..

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More work on the treadle hammer. Figured out how to attach the springs and welded those pieces in place. Realized I didn't have quite as much lead for the head as I'd thought. Found out that my bright idea for a recoil spring was good, but the piece of steel I used for it was bad. Got some ideas for anchoring its base to the anvil’s.  Figuring out what to do next.

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Addendum: after writing the above (and getting some dinner for self and son, helping the latter finish his homework, etc), I went back out into the shop and did a bit more. Cut off the recoil spring, played around with different linkages and attachment points for the connection between the treadle and the arm, identified a few little problems to be corrected later, and came up with a good game plan. Using the temporary setup (which was held together with C-clamps and sash cord), I made a few cuts with a hot-cut top tool on a chunk of wood, and was pleasantly reassured that I'm on the right track. And thence off to bed to sleep the sleep of the just.

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