Forging on wood

[David R.]

Here is a technique I often use to form  convex shapes when a proper swage block isn’t available. It is pretty effective albeit a little smoky. I wouldn’t recommend pine at all, wild cherry works well, (what glass blowers use for molds). This is apple because it’s what I had handy. I use the same technique for flintlock fowler style butt plates. You needn’t worry with prepping the surface, simply heat the metal and start pounding on the wood. It burns it’s own way in to get whatever shape you need. These are a couple of ladle bowls.

[Scott NC]

  Thats nice!  I use a similar method for making turtle shells for my metal sculptures.  I get a leg up on the wood form forming part of it by using a chainsaw attachment on my 4-1/2" angle grinder.  Not for everybody, but less smoke!   Scott.

[ThomasPowers]

Armour makers have the mantra: "Hard on soft, soft on hard".   If you use a hard hammer; use a soft dishing form and if you use a soft hammer---like a rawhide one---use a hard dishing form.

As you are dishing I'd call that concave.  If you were working down over a stake I'd call it convex...

[anvil]

Concave, convex, two sides of the same question.  Point of view? .  Lol

In all seriousness, it works good for leafwork as well.

Best material depends on location. At 9000' pine and Aspen are plentiful. Aspen smells better 

At 7500'  pinyon and cedar are easy to come by. Cedar is awesome. Kinda makes you want to spend the whole day making smoke.

Yea, use whatever is easiest to come by.