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I Forge Iron

80# acme trenton


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I have always found the blacksmithing community to be supportive and encouraging. My mentors have been generous and forthwith in all matters. With this in mind I am appreciative and grateful for our community. I turn to the internet for immediacy and reference often.  My quest for provenance requires patience, I’m working on that. I have seen members with 34,000 posts answer questions and make referrals in less than an hour. So I post my inquiries here, with good reason and with a reasonable expectation. I posted a question with documentation and was sanctioned, I’m guessing due to my impatience and innuendo.please accept my apologies as I would like to continue my exploration of our craft and  vocation, with temperament. 

That said, I was purchasing an Anvil and wanted to know how old it was and who made it. I bought this tool for work. My obsession with historical facts are based on curiosity only. I can see that it is well made and will suffice.

What I do know is it is 80#, with an ACME stamp. I have sourced info that referenced ACME Anvil where made by other foundries for the Sears Roebuck catalogue. One was Trenton. Co. Given the serial number provided, would anyone care to cross reference or make referral where I might find out the age and maker?

i will not be checking this thread every hour as I have made the purchase based on info at hand at the point of sale. I did not explain my predicament or the urgency.

Again, my apologies if I have upset anyone.

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I was going to reply to your other thread but it was locked before I could.

To look up the serial number it will take someone who has a copy of Anvils in America to see the post and go to the book and look it up. I do think it is Trenton made for Sears & Roebuck under their Acme brand which covered a lot of years. I know of other companies that used an A prefix in the serial number Hay Budden for sure, but the weight stamp is not on the front foot with them but under the name. Maybe post several other pictures showing both sides, the underside of the base and under the heel and top face, all of them will hold clues as to the manufacture.

I also figured because all of your other posts asked about the value of items and you stated that you paid $400 for it, the next question would be "how did I do". To answer that question it would require knowing where in the world you are located. There are a lot of countries that use the dollar as their currency. I can say this in my area $5.00 a pound U.S. is rather steep for an old anvil no matter who made it.

I don't know if you have read the Read This First thread located up in the blue banner. It explains how to get the best out of the forum with tips, like editing your profile to show location and many other good ones.

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Howdy; how fast stuff gets answered is based on Life, the Universe and Everything.  I have a number of posts under my belt; but no internet access at home; so on weekends there may be a several day gap vs I might answer a question in minutes during the week.  Also my research library is at home so if it's something I need to troll through the 100+ year old Sears Roebuck Catalog reprints or my copy of AinA there will be at least a 16 hour delay. (And I do like to spend time with my wife and out in my shop working on projects of my own instead of unpaid work for others.)

Remember that none of these people are getting paid to help out; on the contrary most are spending their precious time doing so and are happy to do so---or at least grumpy within limits! (Out of limits grumpiness gets us moderated!) However posts that seem to demand instantaneous gratification can be ignored by people actually making replies take longer to appear.

People's posting "styles" can rub folks the wrong way.  Shoot I have a long term member here still on my "ignore list" and others I tend not to deal with.  Probably excellent folks; we just don't mesh well and so better to avoid making all those fine filings in the bottom of the gearbox...

Now one neat thing about getting on in years; is that a bunch of us don't track names closely; so if someone is a "pain" in one post that may not colour our reactions to other posts made with a different style!   In fact it can be seen where we are arguing in one thread and agreeing on another thread.

This is sort of the "flavor" of these forums; if it's not to your taste feel free to avoid us.

And NOTE: I have no special powers on this site; this is ALL just my opinion!

(And I will say that since anvil serial numbers are sequential; A146373 will be fairly young for an anvil.  Also these anvils are not made by foundries as they are NOT cast from either iron or steel).

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Hey Marty, I'm also guessing your anvil was made by the same company that made "Trenton" stamped anvils, i think it was Columbus Iron and Forge. I have an anvil stamped both Acme and Trenton, has the weight (100) stamped on the front left foot and no serial number on the right front foot, as yours has. Seeming lack of consistency in the stamping procedures. I'm sure you have figured out by now, she's going to ring like a bell. There are a few threads on quieting her down. I don't have a copy of AIA, so I can't help with the serial number. It should serve you well.

Steve

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thank you for your reply. I’m located in No. California. Prices are high out here. Thanks to a resurgence in the craft. I wanted it for a traveler demo setup. It’s in good condition and I can repair the few small edge chips. I’ll try to get a look at the Anvils in America book.

Thanks again,

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3 hours ago, Stash said:

Hey Marty, I'm also guessing your anvil was made by the same company that made "Trenton" stamped anvils, i think it was Columbus Iron and Forge.

Columbus iron and forge, good tip. I’ll check it out. I have found ear protection to be the best sound suppression. I’ve tried magnets that deadens the sound well, but the slag sticks to the work face. Chain adds more weight and reduces ring, but gets in my way.

thanks for the reply

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Thank you Thomas Powers and Iron dragon, your help and advice is much appreciated. 

I have worked in both Foundries and Forges, not my first job nor my last. Reminds me, someone told me “All Farriers are blacksmiths, but not all Blacksmiths are Farriers” I used the term Foundry as a ubiquitous term for Forge, when I knew there is a difference. Let’s not bring up “Smelting” It’s best to use precise terminology when seeking answers. Something else I am working on. Thanks Thomas.

 

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Iron dragon, that’s a good idea! I made my stand to fit layers of Marine grade plywood. So I can adjust the height for different users. I’ll “glue” ( removable) to one layer and use one or two plywood layers for height. I’ll have to make my holdowns adjustable. The Anvil is only 80# so it is a bit lofty in full use, but with the holdowns sandwiching the dense plywood it might work ok. 

Thanks, I’ll give it a try.

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IIRC 1898 was a good year for a Trenton without a serial number and with the weight on the side; but the base your's has.  Long write up in AinA describing the changes over time so definitely go with what it says.

Now historically some smelting sites were known as forges, especially back in the direct process days. (I think they were so designated on the environmental laws enacted in England in the 16th/17 century restricting their proliferation in the forest Dean...) I don't know that I have ever run across a forge being called a foundry though.

Unfortunately you can be a farrier nowadays and not be a smith---all cold work and turning cams and keg shoes!

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