Caleb S Posted July 24, 2020 Author Share Posted July 24, 2020 I was thinking of just making one, I made wheels for a belt grinder in a similar way. Thanks for the pictures that makes things easy for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 I use 2 V belts to drive my 50 LG. works a treat. V pully on the motor to the flat pully on the hammer, no problems in years of use. It was that way when I got it. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paleoelectronics Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 Howdy, New member here and forgive my pedestrian question. I have a Mayer 25 Lb which wants to engage even when the clutch is disengaged. I suspect that the clutch material is broken ( Pictures ) 1) can folks verify this is indeed a broken clutch ? 2) would I get replacement from LG? 3) Any other guidance would be appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 A previous owner had a worn clutch and repaired it by adding that material. I would check that the clutch return spring is strong enough to pull it back out of contact and make sure that surface is heavily oiled. I'm facing the same issue only not repaired. The LG book suggests brazing in several spots to build up the inner surface. I expect it will be "grabby" until it wears in. The folks at LG can probably help you out with such questions: www.littlegianthammer.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 You oil your clutch heavily Thomas? I find mine gets grabby with more than a light coat of oil. Dry and it doesn't want to engage. What kind of oil are you using? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 Wooden block clutches like oil in my experience. I expect when I spin up my cast iron "cone" clutch it will take a lighter dose. I'll be using a light machine oil sold for swamp cooler bearings as we have a bit of that on hand. Also your oil temps may be a bit different from our summer temps. That clutch in question may need a bit of filing to get a good surface; except for FULL SPEED there should be sliding between the clutch parts allowing you to feather it. (Why I was also interested in the clutch return spring.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 I can be more generous with 3 in 1 than I can with 10-30. The clutch pads in mine are wood, maybe 1/4" thick and bent around the clutch cone. That's what I can see, it works fine so it can stay together. I have good control, I can lower or raise the hammer without striking or cycling or I can let it rip. I had to shim the treadle and put a stronger spring in mine or only one side of the treadle engaged the clutch. The new spring, connecting rod and brake stopped any coasting. Actually, getting the brake to work like I thought it should is the primary reason for shimming the pedal and revamping the linkage and spring. What do you use to lube the bearings, bushings, slide, etc? I'm using chainsaw bar oil with about 1/4 cup of Duralube to the gallon. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 Let me get power to them and I'll tell you! (just browsing for plugs for the 50 amp circuit. Only 1 220 circuit currently (pi) and my welder and hammers will have to share it till I get more installed. 4 20 amp 110 circuits with the lighting being on a circuit not shared with any outlets!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 You're not likely to be using the power hammer and arc welding at the same time so you're probably good till you find more 220.s Outlets or plugs? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 You mean I can't pattern weld with the stinger hooked to the steel billet handle and the ground attached to the bottom die of the hammer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 SHHHHH! Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 You're right now some "not blessed" fool will try it and damage a hammer and themselves.... Sigh---it was a joke folks, a JOKE! (Now how would you flood it with argon?...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 Make the handle from steel tubing connected to argon and leave a small bleed hole at the far end of the canister. I HOPE I don't need to mention there has to be a hole from the tubing handle into the canister. If you didn't think of that out there in wanna forge damascus blades land, you might want to consider a less demanding pursuit. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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