First Finished Knife... and a Patina Question

[Panik]

To be clear this is not my first attempt at a knife.... just the first one that has made it to completion There have been three preceding attempts - one in pieces on the shop floor (file knives are a horrible idea for beginners), one in the scrap bin, and one that has been put aside until I have the patience and skills needed to fix my mistakes. 

The knife is a stock removal job made with Aldo's 1084 steel and sapele scales with a coat of Odies Oil as a finish (several more needed). It is destined for a friend who expressed encouragement and interest in it beyond it just being a first-ish attempt on my part. One of the comments my friend made in seeing the unfinished blank was that he sometimes enjoyed the dull look created by forge scale. I didn't feel comfortable leaving it with scale from the heat treat and endeavored to come up with a slightly more refined, but matte finish.

To that end I did a bit of research and came across what appeared to be a relatively simple way to do a for of rust bluing on Youtube (yes.. I know..). In any case the process detailed involved repeatedly etching the blade in vinegard, painting it with a H202/salt solution to encourage rust and then using filtered boiling water to supposedly convert the rust to magnetite. Obviously that didn't happen here, or at least did not completely occur in this case. I was wondering if anyone might be able to provide their insight as to what type of changes actually occurred.

The only things of note I can think of is that I deviated in using tap water instead of filtered, and that it is my understanding that there is some vanadium in Aldo's 1084. 

(To be clear, I do enjoy the results but also take it as a good lesson in both using test coupons and ensuring I understand the process occurring)

 

[billyO]

2 hours ago, Panik said:

what type of changes actually occurred.

Just another form of oxidation.  I'm not sure boiling water is hot enough to actually get to 'bluing' like your talking about.  

Do a search for rust-bluing or browning steel, it sounds like you were closer to doing this.

 

 

[Panik]

Will do! And thank you for pointing me in a direction

[ThomasPowers]

You may also want to look into the mustard patina as another way to go.

[Welshj]

I just recieved a bottle of Birchwood Casey's super blue gun blueing today, going to try it on a blade I'm making. It was recommended by a machinist buddy of mine- he uses it on the parts he makes. Gives a flat, oxide black look to the steel... let you know how it works.

[Welshj]

First attempt at blueing for me. Was done cold, with the birchwood. I used vinyl stickers for doing the name as a mask for the blueing.

[Panik]

Welshj, I am sorry for not responding sooner. I didn’t see the notification until yesterday when I posted up a different topic. 

That is some amazing detail work! Thank you for sharing it’s an inspiration! I had no idea you could use Super Blue with vinyl stencils. It came out great and at some point I’m, when my skills progress, I’m going to have to give it a try as it really adds depth of character to your work. 

Any thoughts on durability? I’ve 50-60 year old guns whose bluing is perfect, but they are safe queens and we’re commercially done... I’d be curious to see how light wear (sheath as ex..) would impact the finish. 

[Welshj]

Unsure yet... I'm not going to be able to judge it on this blade- as its going to be gifted to my friend soon.

But, the knobs and handles on my belt sander are done with the same product... and they're still looking great after a couple months use.