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I Forge Iron

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This started as a 4 inch wide wagon tyre. I cut 2 equal lengths that one ended up 32 ounces exactly and the other 32.2 ounces. I split them down the center to make 4- 2 inch wide pieces. I ground, stacked and welded them at the corners. I didnt weld on a working stick I just held it with tongs. I forge welded the 4 pieces together drew it out a bit and hot cut and folded it to make 8 layers. I'm not going for layer count just refining the wrought a little to make it easier to work. This wagon tyre is not very refined. Then I forged into a fairly uniform billet roughly 7 ½ inches by 2 ¼inches by ⅝ inch. And began the shaping.  I did most of the forging from here with a striker. Resized_20200701_115827.thumb.jpeg.b7cd89a62eef465b5b924249cc933233.jpegResized_20200701_115836.thumb.jpeg.ae96016c7ddca2608e3cc33bb6709d2d.jpegResized_20200630_143659.thumb.jpeg.6187eeeb4c49f5351ce209248acd7ca0.jpegResized_20200630_143641.thumb.jpeg.4de56f7e5bb30e659866ff9e6e4a7e63.jpegone spot of concern is here at the set down. Resized_20200630_143650.thumb.jpeg.776513419f39dc710fe1ea7ed6471a88.jpegResized_20200630_143738.thumb.jpeg.8b8f02a42447cc8b72bbcd2c91d37c83.jpeg

all that was yesterday's work. Today I got everything welded up Resized_20200701_115423.thumb.jpeg.673d6a4e94913de32663f532e805f464.jpegResized_20200701_115454.thumb.jpeg.c4656ecc801dbd238fbe7d0fe3d16574.jpegResized_20200701_115443.thumb.jpeg.98928b268950a8044c6d138d684b8a82.jpegand the one spot i was concerned about showed its ugly face again. I'm not sure what in going to do about it now. Maybe try to forge weld it back shut AGAIN. This time I will bring it up to welding temps and drive the drift home and hope for the best?the little spot near the poll is just a mark from what I belive was from the tongs. It's not a delam though.Resized_20200701_115431.thumb.jpeg.e85a8fbe920ce6c3f08601caca50b00c.jpeg

More work will be done tomorrow morning. I try to be done in the shop around noon before it gets too hot. This northern blood is too thick for these hot summer days!!!;)

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That one has a particularly nice pattern in the wrought iron to my eye.

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Well, now I know what I'll be doing with some of my new wagon wheel tires.

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Use the *old* ones; they are more likely to be wrought iron!

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In case anyone was wondering about drifting an axe with the lugs like this there is several ways of going about it.

One is obviously the swage block.

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next is a bolster which would be good for people that dont have a swage block and a small hardie hole in there anvil. This bolster was actually made for making viking style hammers but works excellent for a viking style axe. Resized_20200701_200437.thumb.jpeg.69630cfe032438e509e2f9f98684c525.jpegResized_20200701_200446.thumb.jpeg.38f63b5b89a7591f2ede4e379e978817.jpegResized_20200701_200452.thumb.jpeg.4bbaf2b9c7fedd0d06b4d64af3492b05.jpeg

 

that's my tip for the day.;) Have a good night everyone.

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That wee one by the fire is indeed a good looking axe Very nice

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 Very nice pictures and axe! I am still trying to get a wrought wrapped eye to turn out that nice.   I find with wrought that I need to use a 1/4 inch round bar fuller on the step downs before using the anvil edges.  Even though my anvil has nice radiuses if I go straight to the anvil it shears enough when I wrap the eye breaks.  I’ve also discovered that the cheeks can’t be as thin as in mild before the bend. I bend at white heat and still the eye tears half the time. 

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 An excellent example why sharp edges on an anvil was considered a BAD thing in the days of working predominantly with Wrought Iron.

Have you tried other wrought iron?  Some wrought iron is much more "picky" to use than others---why the old books talk about testing each new buy of wrought iron for cold shortness, hot shortness, how refined, etc.

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