Smeden gegen Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 I'm about to do a project, a finnish knife from auto spring steel, i am going to work in a proper smithy with more or less full gear, but the problem is that coal and coke is a pain in the xxx to find where i live, (west coast sweden) and highly expensive, so im considering to use techniques showed by joey van der steeg to effectivize my forge's fuel use, and to recruit a striker to be able to excert maximum power into the stock, does this seem like a good idea? Suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 The forges at the SOFA workshop have electric blowers that have a foot switch that you have to stand on for them to run. Saves a lot of coal and steel! Bellows and hand crank blowers also have more of "off when not actively heating metal" functionality. You don't mention the details of the shop you will be using. Have you tried an induction heater? Rework the system to use charcoal rather than coal? What is you skill level? Do you have experience using a striker? If not how do you plan to practice before working on a specific project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 13 hours ago, Smeden gegen said: west coast sweden Welcome aboard... We won't remember that once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it in this thread. READ THIS FIRST There are many other tips and some will help in flying under the moderators radar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smeden gegen Posted June 4, 2020 Author Share Posted June 4, 2020 @ThomasPowers It's an old traditional swedish smithy, just a regular solid fuel forge and and a (kohlswa?) London anvil, but also a power hammer powered by a small windmill. I have some experience in striker work, but the guy i'm considering to "employ" is quite inexperienced, and a bit sloppy, so might have to train him on some mild steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 Since charcoal has been used for forging about 3 times as long as coal has you are using charcoal in a forge designed for it then? Do you know what is considered "regular" down here in New Mexico? I wouldn't expect you to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 Top tools help with inexperienced strikers. what kind of a forge? Side blast, bottom blast, duck nest... charcoal and side blast forges go well together. Keep the fire size small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smeden gegen Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 I dont have any pics, they will come later Bottom blast forge, most forges in sweden that have survived the test of time are bottom blast I do make my own charcoal ocassionally, which is good but you already know the facts of coal/coke/charcoal The thought i had with all this is that if i'm extremely conservative with the fire, take it slow with the heats, and use a striker to "mash out" the round bar to flat, good or bad idea? Should i take my time with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 Slower heats will help with fuel consumption, if you need yellow heat to forge, a white hot fire isn’t nesisary. A striker or the wind mill powers hammer will certainly move steel faster than a single Smith with a hand hammer. The bottom blast forge is a product of the Industrial Age and cheap cast iron. The iron tools of most of your history were forged in small side blast forges (20-25mm tuyeres) burning charcoal, heating 15cm at a time. This side of the pond some smiths have found maze to be an alternative that behaves much like coal in a bottom blast forge. Also, improved technice moves steel more efficiently as well.Jeniffer has some great videos and that lady can move steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smeden gegen Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 The thought of using corn seems good, It’s actually cheaper than charcoal, but how long time to get 10-15 millimeter thick stock into the high yellow range? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 depends on how hot the fire is (how much air) but first heat always takes the longest. Don’t work it to cold and the next heat will be a lot fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smeden gegen Posted June 6, 2020 Author Share Posted June 6, 2020 Okey, good stuff guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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