Adair Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 My disorganization has finally led me to a complete shop overhaul. The only thing fixed was my power hammer. I decided nearly every other item had to move to improve my efficiency. It took most of the afternoon to move everything, and it took twice that long to lay it out, but I can tell it is going to pay off. I post here just to encourage people to make as accurate a drawing as they can and test everything from the handle swing on a hossfeld to outlet or lighting locations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Put everything you can on wheels. You will be surprised how convenient that becomes when you need a little space for a particular project, or when it comes time to clean the floors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 I'm with you, detailed dimensioned drawings are THE way to discover what isn't going to work. It's not fool proof of course things can slip by but it really lowers the odds of screwing something up badly. What do the dashed lines represent? Are the machine tools in the same room as the forge? A propane forge just CRANKS out water vapor so rust might be a problem, an issue regardless. Looking good, positions look good to work around. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adair Posted May 29, 2020 Author Share Posted May 29, 2020 Hi Glenn, I have a few things on wheels, but my goal is to avoid them. I've spent too much time in shops where things move and wiggle about. It comes somewhat at the cost of circulation space, but I'd rather have fewer tools than constantly be shuffling things around. It's not a shop that can do everything, but it suits the way I work I have wheels on the obvious things: welder, oxy acetylene rig, forge, bandsaw and my fabrication table which can dock against my platten table to extend my layout space. Frosty, The dashed lines are overhead beams. In the pacific northwest I have condensation problems aplenty, rust will be a constant battle. The machine tools were precise in 1920...I don't pretend to be a real machinist. I just make basic tooling for my purposes. Nice of you to actually evaluate the layout, I appreciate that. -A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 I was wondering if they were overhead beams, good to know. You don't need to be doing high precision work to want to keep your machine tools in good shape. One of my concerns is grinder dust but thinking back Dad had a surface grinder in his shop so maybe it's not that big a deal. Then again I tend to run disk grinders and a belt grinder often, grit gets everywhere. I haven't set my lathe up in the shop, it's been waiting and ready in the connex since the accident slammed the brakes on finishing the shop. I'm almost afraid to take a close look at it after all this time. <sigh> I only wanted it to make tooling and specialty things, Dad was a machinist, I can run one without breaking it. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 For any machines that do not like dust and debris and are in occasional use, cover them with a drop cloth for protection. You can remove the drop cloth and wash it when needed. One thing to ALWAYS avoid is any acid in that shop. The acid fumes will accelerate rust like crazy. There are products spray cans that can be used to protect tools and tooling from rust. I am playing with one now to see how well it preforms. There is a product that you can place open in a drawer that the vapors protect the tools from rust. You can fight rust to slow it down it down but constant use is the best method for protection, followed by protectants after use and definitely before storage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 Glenn, Camphor? SLAG. Silica gel can absorb water vapor. Very expensive instruments can be sealed in plastic with the gel inside. But the silica has to be renewed from time to time. The spent gel can renewed ("recharged" ), by heating it, to drive off the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 The spray is a commercial product in a can. It coats and seals the metal from moisture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 LPS 3 both protects from corrosion and will convert it back to sound metal. It leaves a layer of tough wax and the vehicle solvents are very penetrating so the preventative chemicals and barrier wax is carried into every nook and cranny. It's expensive but is GOOD stuff. Gypsum board, (sheet rock) is an excellent desiccant if you bake it in a 230f. oven for an hour per inch of thickness. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 Hard vacuum and moving to the desert; both are big helps with rust issues! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 We have desert rustiness not far north of us and vacuum REALLY sucks. Think I'll stick with oil. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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