Justin Topp Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 I’ve posted this on another place but it fits here and I figure more people will see it here. It’s a fullering jig I made out of scraps I got free that can fuller hammers or knives or anything really. It’s adjustable for different stock sizes. I tested it by making a 1.75 lb rounding hammer From 4140. it’s Easy and effective. Took a total of 6 heats to fuller of the hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awrksmokey Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 such a cool concept! hopefully I'll try making one soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 Definitely do it. Very handy and you know how I feel about spring fullers haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 Looks good, lots of good work in that puppy! My only suggestion would be to round the ends some and smooth them up so they don't dig cold shuts if you use it full length on something. Say fullering that sword I just KNOW you're dieing to make. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 Is that a tool-and-die joke, Frosty, or does it need a fuller explanation? That's really well done, GD2, and I think I will have to steal take inspiration from it. I have only one small suggestion: add a handle projecting off the back end of the arm. I have a just such a handle on my big swing-arm swage, and it's really nice to be able to open the swage by resting my hammer on the handle while positioning the workpiece with my other hand. (When I'm using with my treadle hammer to square up hardy stems, it's also nice to be able to open the swage just enough to turn the workpiece 90 degrees, but that's a separate issue.) Also, a question: is the top bar solid all the way through, not tubing like the uprights? Looks like it (and that would make sense); I just want to confirm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goods Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 Is the solid stock for the swing arm itself a big advantage? I’m a bit stingy with my limited heavy stock... David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted March 30, 2020 Author Share Posted March 30, 2020 Didn’t think of that frosty! I’ll get on it ASAP thanks! And I’ve made one sword but no fullers. Maybe it’s time for another hmm. Haha Thanks JHCC I’ll add a arm to the back I like that yes the pivoting arm is 1.25” solid. Only tubing is the uprights. the solid stock helps add weight so it doesn’t bounce as much and tube would collapse. Although I should work hunk if you stuck something in the end of the pipe like a bolt and welded it in to support the tube that might work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur210 Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 Nice design! Tube for the arm would work, only the top die needs to be solid and go through the tube. If you arrange the botton die to be removable, then you can use body of the tool for different dies. Much like a guillotine tool. With the lengthened arm, you could call it a trebuchet tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 Thanks. I had solid so I figured less hassle so I used it. I thought about making a removable die but I made primarily for hammers and it does the job great for hammers. These two were made using it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 The DISadvantage of interchangeable dies is that whatever holds them in place has to be strong enough to withstand pounding, while still able to come apart easily. Weygers has an interesting system in The Complete Modern Blacksmith that uses a flat spring to hold a top tool over a hardy, but it puts the hammering over the anvil's tail rather than (as with GD2's rig) its sweet spot. Out of curiosity, GD2, what is diameter of round stock did you use for the dies? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 I really only needed to use this one size and I can make a new one of these things in like 30 minutes so it’s no big deal. I used 5/8” round I believe. Medium carbon from an old wrench looking thing that had a round handle. I used medium carbon so it wouldn’t deform over time like mild steel might Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 Cool; thanks. Time to dig out the sucker rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 I’d love to see your take on it when/if you make it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 Probably my next big fabrication project, once I've finished the metalwork on the new gas forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 John; don't forget the engraving, niello, repousee, chasing, patination, enameling, filigree, granulation,... You probably remember the tale of the celtic metalworker who only used 5 different methods of ornamentation on a piece and so was driven out of the tribe and exiled into the uttermost darkness... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 Yeah, he was my ancestor. I'm happy if my weld beads are decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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