Bleu86 Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Howdy, I tried researching this but I couldn't find an answer. I'm a true first timer and I just purchased a super cheap gas forge with a very open face. As in, the edges of the kaowool are exposed (see pic). I'm going to treat with rigidizer and cover with refractory, but I didn't know if that would be enough. Do I need to look into attaching a metal lip around the edges to cover that insulation, or would a coat of refractory be sufficient? Obviously I will be using fire bricks at either end to help with keeping the heat in. Thank you for any help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Yes. Rigidizing then adding a layer of hard refractory for the flame face will make it safe and reasonably durable. A coat of good "kiln wash" will prolong it's life significantly. Just so you know forge liners are wear items, they do NOT last forever. Do you have a stand or table for it yet? I like a table with room front and back so I can adjust as I need. In this case there are no provisions for a porch so standing brick thermal baffles (doors, sort of) at the openings problematical. A fire proof table top, I have a yard sale score of a metal topped rolling cart under mine. A piece of sheet rock makes a fine heat shield so the table doesn't get all warpidy and make stuff roll off. I lay my forge on a couple fire bricks at each end with about 3/4 of the bricks sticking out. That gets the forge 2.5" off the table and gives me about 6" of brick for porches at each end. I can stand fire brick heat baffles on the porches to reflect the IR back into the forge where it does some good and I can move them as necessary. It's certainly not the only way to do it but it's fast and simple. My kind of thing. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleu86 Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 Awesome, thank you! So as I understand it, I'll just need to keep an eye on the refractory and replace as needed? Is that something that I can just put another coat over or would I need to chip everything off and insert fresh insulation and recoat? Regarding the table, we are building one with a couple of metal sawhorses and some square tubing. It will be outside in a covered bay next to the barn, so plenty of room to access it from either side. Love the idea of building a porch from fire brick. This is just a funny hobby so fast and simple is my thing too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Crew Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 I purchased a bag of refractory and ridgidizer from armadillo clay on 4th st in austin. They also have hard fire brick which would work well for your porch and 2800 insulting brick which might make good doors. I have a steel fab shop so I decided to build my own forge. It uses 2 hard bricks as a porch on either end and 2800 bricks as doors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 When the flame face is worn enough you'll know it and want to replace it all. It's not the job it sounds like, not trivial but no big deal. Blacksmithing can be as simple as a camp fire, short piece of pipe and a paper bag for a bellows, a large rock and a hammer. Your stock is whatever you picked up on the walk to the camp site or in the ditch driving out. Fancy is for city slickers. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleu86 Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 12 minutes ago, Old Crew said: I purchased a bag of refractory and ridgidizer from armadillo clay on 4th st in austin. Oooh, good to know theres a local supplier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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