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Buffalo forge blower seized


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A few weeks ago I got a buffalo forge with hand crank blower, from member Kozzy, and it will fit my needs perfectly except I cant seem to get the shaft the crank goes on freed up, everything else moves.(Yes i took it apart).

So I started with saturating shaft with PB blaster, for days not helping, then I went to another penetrating oil called knocker loose these have been 3-4 days at a time. So Saturday I put it in ATF, still no movement, so it's currently as of this afternoon sitting in diesel. Which is where the thread I was reading stopped, now the long winded question..... what next if after a few days? Week? This doesn't do it? 

I am not wanting to put a torch to it, it's to nice for that. TIA

Rich

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Kero and ATF are the best penetrating fluids besides the one you can buy like PB blaster. I would also give the shaft light taps along the shaft to crack the rust.

Have you seen it spinning before this? 

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Does it move at all? You have it open, good. Are the gears free? Have you turned upside down and banged it with a MALLET(!!) to knock any pebbles or chips loose? If you can't turn the gears there's a good chance something is caught in meshing cogs, often all it needs to escape is a little gravity reversal and vibration. If the inside is cruddy at all, a degreasing and trip to the car wash for power washing does wonders and can't hurt a thing. Remember your PPE, at least WEAR EYE PROTECTION! There is NO telling :o what's gong to get blasted out of the gear box, even paint chips with 20,000 psi. behind them can do real damage! Scoop/scrape out the congealed oil, use a good degreaser, preferable not the smelly kind, the guys at the car wash don't like folk degreasing and leaving a mess, ghost it.:ph34r: I usually degrease before loading it in the truck to take it to the power wash. I use the hot soapy selection and blast the . . . heck out of it.  

Taking a torch to it won't damage it if you don't get silly. All you want to do is warm up a small area couple hundred degrees warmer than ambient and do it quickly. If you warm it too slowly it'll warm the shaft as well and expansion won't break whatever's seizing it. Once it's warm BUMP the handle back and forth, NOT hard, just bump it to break the crud loose while the two surfaces, housing and shaft, are pulled away from each other. Do NOT try to force it to turn! You just want to rattle the seizing crud, it's brittle, regardless of what has oxidized and bumping it will break it up. Make sense?

After bumping it maybe a dozen times, don't get carried away, use the penetrant on it. Being warm and opened up a little and the crud hopefully cracked the penetrant has wider gaps to penetrate and as the housing cools it'll draw a little vacuum and enhance capillarity drawing the penetrant in. Let it work for a while, over night is good but an hour or two at least and bump it.

Lather rinse repeat. You'll get flames when you heat it again, don't get excited do it outdoors and have some borax ready in case something catches. Heat, bump, lube, rest, bump. Repeat till it's moving. 

Don't get in a hurry, even when it's turning some; if it stops, repeat the process. Your patience WILL be rewarded. 

These old hand crank blowers were made tough but you CAN damage them by forcing them and most of the time you don't need to take them apart more than maybe opening the case to degrease and power wash. I've had good luck squirting the innards through the intake and exhaust with a garden hose and bumping the handle.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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I like trying to turn the vanes by hand---GENTLY!  Rocking them back and forth with the penetrating oil applied.

I recently bought a Little Giant that has been laying outside for several decades, It's now standing in my shop and I try to give it a shot of penetrating oil every time I go out there.  May be weeks before I get to strip it down and I expect the day/night heat cycle will help the oil to penetrate.

NOT being in a hurry can do wonders and has far fewer "Oops now I gotta repair/replace that too." moments.   Wish I had learned this when I was young...

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It was frozen but not in terrible shape---I figured it would come apart reasonably easily with the usual soaking etc.  It's a stamped sheet metal buffalo that was sold to Cowboy Rich.

199602489_EWAMforge1.thumb.jpg.be6d34ee5e4f7d0cc79dff5b9a7c676d.jpg

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Thanks for the help folks. This is how far apart it is the main gears shaft is the only thing seized up everything else spins freely. It was sitting in diesel but found out when I got home my coffee can apparently has a small hole in it so no progress today. I have tried bumping it back and forth but it's not having it just yet. So tomorrow I will get a different container and some more diesel along with PB blaster then see what happens I just wanted to make sure I hadn't missed anything.

Not applying heat is me being stubborn, I will if need be.

Kozzy, dont take this post the wrong way I am very happy with the forge and just trying to take baby steps to free it up, I am a horrible combination sometimes stubborn as all get out and then while I'm busy with stubborn I get impatient. I've been steering clear of the impatient because I dont want to hurt anything.

 

Oh forgot the inside was free of anything but wasps nest.

Thanks again everyone

Rich

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Acetone and ATF ... now that has to work. Thinning out one of the best detergent oils has to be a winner. 

I have freed up rusted solid bearings by submerging them in kero for weeks. The acetone/ATF would be great for tight spaces like a bush. Best of luck and be patient, No blowtorch ... yet :)

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Well, I dont have a temper oven, as I'm just starting out and dont know yet how that process works. I've got an oven in the house but seems that would heat to evenly? And the wife gets about as upset when I use HER tools as i do when she uses mine, that being said she is out of town right now!

Thanks for the tip but dont know I'm equipped for, since i dont know the process that would be involved. 

I'm getting ready to go try working it again, no results yesterday.

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