Jump to content
I Forge Iron
Justin Topp

Justin’s Smithing progression. [PIC heavy]

Recommended Posts

I over calculated stock size so it’s huge but here’s today’s work. It will go in the acid tomorrow. Wrought iron 

87381BDF-7B8D-4DE9-8176-E0516929AA00.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to say I really love that chisel of yours! I've been wanting to make a similar one with a w2 bit for a while and have all the materials picked out. The forge welding part is daunting though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks! Yea they are pretty fun and honestly not too hard. I used square stock and a guillotine to isolate all the parts 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

Bonnskij  They are not that bad..

That's reassuring. Your video is actually the reason I want to make a chisel in the first place. It's one of my most viewed and favourite forging videos.

I probably have to dig up the backyard again and find find the bag of charcoal to have a shot at the forge welding part though.

Justin: Haven't got any square stock, but I've got some wagon wheel rim. I reckon that should do the trick.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the hardest part is getting all the handle bits together.  Refinement from there as in blade is pretty straight forwards. 

Bonnskij  If you have a wagon tire.. You have nearly any size material you need. :)  I mean within reason. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For chisel stock from a rim you probably want to take a piece from around the curve and not across the width to get the grain aligned better. If it's real coarse you may want to refine it a bit first too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wish I had a whole tire. I only have three pieces totalling about a kilo or so. Still big enough pieces for any size chisel bar framing or turning chisels I reckon. Must be a narrow rim, because there is no way it's wide enough for chisel stock on the cross section. I might go ahead and clean up a piece and check it for coarseness next then. Cheers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I did a few things today. To start I made a treadle hammer that works okay. More of an experiment than anything. Made from scraps. I used my chisel to shape a few bits of wood On this and it works great! 

2F4C341E-E3BD-4C3B-B230-DC27CA4A6304.thumb.jpeg.e3be9ea70b0aa6277c4088f6b48da4fc.jpeg

 

Next I messed with some rebar. Folded up to 54 layers and it had a pattern? I’m assuming the rust on it reacted with the CO in the coal forge and converted back into iron? It’s ASTM A617 grade according to the markings on it. So supposedly rerolled axels unless I’m mistaken. 
 

so I started by flattening it and cutting it to make 3 layers

3125EE6F-6E33-4420-8CB4-82E20C9689C7.thumb.jpeg.b00ed8bbbdca46a0af925b515d93f1b5.jpegF02E77EC-A63B-4937-960C-9F04A1ED4522.thumb.jpeg.9d8f8fb9a3f195351664479e005bc2f0.jpeg267CCB22-7329-470E-BF88-65DEB33772E9.jpeg.6873e7b7ee620d88a22c78549edb0d99.jpeg
 

next I  folded it in 3rds 2 times to go to 9 than 27 layers 

 

4AF607B7-6348-4F3E-B010-5AF90855DB30.jpeg.c3f919d4a5545bc972f15a7f175e9cba.jpeg670862BC-3A38-426C-85E9-0EE6A36E9C93.jpeg.642c63ed34a664fc484d2b194f5ce477.jpeg

 

than I folded in half to get 54 layers. I cleaned and etched and it’s showing some pattern. I’m gonna twist it tomorrow. This was useless I know I was just experimenting 

F5994AB0-8914-4DE5-A49D-399C18CD59AA.jpeg.8b8eabda8cf410d04e675ba8542f019d.jpegAA72E9BD-9C12-47FE-A594-1424F71BDAD8.thumb.jpeg.305ca81a7e3033f5325c901b4e7ecf50.jpeg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Generally rust just scales off and doesn't get reconverted into iron.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Justin Topp said:

Next I messed with some rebar. Folded up to 54 layers and it had a pattern? I’m assuming the rust on it reacted with the CO in the coal forge and converted back into iron?

I believe this is generally attributed to the thin decarb layer at the surface of each piece.  It's the same reason you can get a pattern on forge welded cable that is all the same alloy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had read about it so I was just guessing there, 

 

Buzzkill- I think your probably correct. It’s shiny just like how cable is shiny in the non etched parts 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

flux will also impart a line..  No flux, no line..  Interesting concept but true. 

Justin, so now that you have a chance to test the foot hammer are you going to refine it? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah very interesting. 

as for the hammer I’m going to be finding a better anvil. A block of steel perhaps and a larger hammer and Move the treadle to the front and use it like a normal one and not go from the side 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thomas, I don't know..  I do know what fluxless welds if done well and correct there is no layering effect..  

What does "Well and correct" mean.. I'm not sure..   A properly set forge for welding temps without decarb?  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Modified the treadle hammer a bit for more swing so I can fit top tools and added a pilot so it always hits in the same exact place. Hits much harder now and much more accurately. 
 

Now to make it more solid and figure out how to add a motor ... haha 

52EAF472-3212-4AB1-A7B5-83AA520A1A31.jpeg

A23B1BAD-6B3F-462E-9BB5-52FA44700D17.jpeg

4429C251-61EE-4645-B75A-C463F018EBD1.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today is not my day......, this coat was brand new. I mean I have worn it for about 30 minutes total. The last coat I had identical to that one lasted months of being hit by scale and flux and sparks and this one somehow burned when it was like 12 feet away up wind?? I dunno. Also  This hammer was really out of proportion and ugly started out fine but just went wrong so that’s a bag of coal and 2.5 hours wasted. And my forge lining decided to start crumbling after surviving with no damage for the year and a half I’ve used it and the 100 before that. I’m calling it quits before I ruin anything else 

17C4A19B-F624-451F-A783-7A189548E62E.jpeg

03AFA2BD-B76E-4E5D-A7E4-8F78538A684A.jpeg

2892ECFF-D627-4D09-A3B6-7C16EE4EF2CE.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Little bits of scale don't care which way the wind is blowing and 12' isn't very far. 

 Frosty The Lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been considering a thin doe-skin shirt for that very reason, Justin.  I had a flannel shirt do that one day while I was Oxy-Acetylene welding back in the 70's.  Didn't even know I was on fire because it was just smoldering and I was leaning over.  The smoldering material wasn't touching my skin.  When I stood up it didn't take me long to get out of my shirt!!!!! :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The weirdest part is the fact the last one I had would be showered in sparks and molten flux and stuff and wouldn’t care where that ignited with a tiny spark. At least it’s summer so i can go without one 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...