Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 Don't ya hate it when that happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 Ya. I guess I should be more careful when picking out steel from now on haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 Mount it on the wall as a reminder. A lot of us have them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goods Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 I’ve had a very similar failure while making a ball pein hammer myself. Mine however developed before the quench. It happened while drawing the cheek on the opposite side. I assume it cooled/quenched between the face of the anvil and the drift, and broke from the hammer blows on the cheek I was working on. This could have been a similar crack that broke through from the quench. Also, the in the pic above it looks fine on the handle. Was it not quench yet or did it break in use? Did you temper the eye after quenching (usually done with a hot drift)? Keep at it, I love seeing the progress! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 Yup. It will go with the rest of the failures. This is from water quenching 1065. I tempered the cheeks with a Torch. It fell apart when I was hitting some sheet metal on the anvil. It broke after the picture. Time to make another better one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 On 4/13/2020 at 12:00 PM, Chris C said: I completely "got" the pun, Frosty...................just teasing because it came "out of the blue", so to speak. You got me good Chris. Made me explain a pun I didn't really need to. <s'aaah> Well played sir. Truth is I can't predict what'll come into my mind either. Been that way my whole life. GuardedDig: You should put it in a display case and tell folk how hard it is to forge a cut away hammer to show how your handles are fitted. Takes a guys years to master the craft to that level. You betcha! Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 Or that he was swinging it so hard and fast the eye exploded when it hit the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goods Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 With the amount of work he’s turning out, I’d say you dead on! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted April 14, 2020 Author Share Posted April 14, 2020 Haha good idea frosty! It could make a good display... It did fall apart when I smacked some sheet metal and by fall apart explode is better words. The big chunk was 3’ to the right of my anvil one part of the cheek was about 7’ and the other was 6’ to the left. I ended up with just a handle haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 Perhaps an "exploded view" of how the handle's eye is configured? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 too bad you didn't get it on video, it would be an excellent cautionary lesson in the kind of stresses that can build up when hardening steel. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted April 14, 2020 Author Share Posted April 14, 2020 That would’ve been a good safety video. Too bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted April 15, 2020 Author Share Posted April 15, 2020 Today I forged two pairs of pickup tongs. Slightly different Styles. One has flat jaws one has round. Forged from 1”x1/2” with forge welded reigns. How’d I do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 Ignore the welds I didn’t clean anything or aim for a nice weld. But here’s a spring fuller I made. I hate spring fullers as they always seem to break. This one is so far working good. Didn’t feel like forging a hardy shank so I made a wedges style and the spike is there to support the bottom fuller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted April 17, 2020 Author Share Posted April 17, 2020 I punched the hole on the wrong side of the billet but it works just a tad awkward. Butcher tool forged from 1065 left normalized. Hickory handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 Had to resize pictures so they rotated? But I made a nail header and mortise and tenon shank v swage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 Nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted April 19, 2020 Author Share Posted April 19, 2020 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 A simple hook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 I found this wagon wheel and axel cheaply and I planned on buying it for a potential source of wrought iron and I was wondering if any of the other metal bits Besides the main rim are Likely wrought? Such as the bolts or the little loops around the hub. And generally the other bits of metal? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 If it's old enough to be wrought instead of mild steel I believe everything but the wheel bearing surfaces are wrought though different grades. The tire (what you called rim) is the lowest grade, "single wrought" maybe even "muck bar." The band around the hub maybe the same but bolts, nuts, etc. will probably be double or triple wrought. Try making some small test coupons and test etch them to see how the grain looks. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 If the tire is wrought, more than likely it all is but testing will tell. Frosty & I were posting at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 Ok thanks Frosty and Irondragon F&C. I’m asking because it’s cheap and worst case scenario I resell it at the same cost. Or just use the mild steel. My mistake. I’m not great with terminology. I had suspected it would likely be all wrought but if it wasn’t no big deal. I’ve fallen in love with wrought after messing with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 I have a number of set hammers I recently picked up that used wagon wheel spokes as handles. If you are going to dismantle it; use *everything*! As Frosty mentioned the bearing surfaces are generally not WI. Replacement items may not be WI if they were done in "modern" times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Topp Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 Hmm that’s a great use for spokes. Not the strongest I’m sure but better than throwing them away! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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