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I Forge Iron

I"m and old hand at welding...but first time on my first anvil!


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This vulcam anvil was in great shape, but it had damage on the fron edge of the top face at the step befor the horn, and a small "3/4" long gouge at the top face front right side.

I preheated the anvil face area to about 300 deg. F and got a way with just I layer of MG 740 buildup-hardtough weld, as reccomended by ironsirgen here.
Careful to keep top weld area 300-500 deg F, just dabbed touch up low spots of weld area. Rough ground welds to within 1/16" of face finnish. Have yet to mill down to exsisting surface finnish [AND NO MORE!] Maybe just carfully blend sand it if needed. I hope this hard weld will cut with carbide face mill.

I will place photos of this repair progress, in my gallery album, when I figure out how.

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Saw the repair process Saw the repair process. Looks good Looks good....:) Sorry, had to do it.... I think when you are uploading your pictures you are double clicking when you only need to click once, at least that is what it appears to be happening. Hence 2 pictures of each shot. Only thing I can think of.
Did you take a clean up cut on the bottom the anvil first? I know some folks recommend doing that BEFORE milling the top of the anvil. Would like to know how the anvil acts after the repairs. Are you going to have it heat treated? The heat introduced while welding will soften the surrounding face and all will need to be heat treated and brought back to correct hardness. IMHO. Good luck!

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Sorry for all the double photo's, I was really worn out that day and took the pics outside, in hurry, then fed them into the PC. There was so much sun glare on the shinny surfaces I just uploaded all pics, hoping one of each would be a better view than the other.

The anvil turn out real good, if I might say so myself. the weld area, and all the the plate area/ HAZ are all HARD. I am not a professional blacksmith for sure, and less of a metalurgist. But the job will do for me. The surface is smoothe, flat and hard, with sharp corners all the way around. The Bick area was really shot and now looks like it should. MG 740 electrode [a smoothe running rod that runs like lo-hy 7018]data sheets say it is 31-40 RC as welded and will work harden a bit more! A new file just slides of all areas of the top face.

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Hope you didn't take offense to the ribbing of my posts....I just couldn't resist. With your explaination as to why the 2 photo it makes sinse. I know you are excited with the out come and so you should be! Ain't it great to do something like that?!? Gives you a good feeling that you accomplished what would seem to others too difficult at best. Now...let's see something made from this little beauty!

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