671jungle

leaf spring stock removal HT?

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While the new forge is in the works, I have been working on a chopper from a 1/2" thick leaf spring using stock removal. Would I need to heat treat the finished blade or will its current state suffice?

Thanks for any input.

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Without knowing (A) the current state of the blade and (B) how your stock removal has affected any earlier heat treatment, it's impossible to say.

If the steel was previously heat treated and that heat treatment was appropriate for a chopper and your stock removal didn't overheat the steel and ruin the heat treatment, then and only then would you not need any further heat treatment.

However, if any of those conditions is not true, then Yes, you will probably need to do further heat treatment. For a stock removal blade, I would recommend annealing your blank first, to make cutting, grinding, and filing much, much easier.

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Herb chopper, tree chopper, motorcycle chopper?  A lot depends on what you or the intended user likes in a blade.

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5 minutes ago, JHCC said:

then and only then

Thanks JHCC. It was a slow and steady removal at the grinding wheel. Im assuming the the material was tempered for spring. I cut it right off the pack and went to work. So, I guess my actual question is if a spring temper will hold an edge against bone? It will be mainly used to chop carcasses.

Motorcycle chopper!

With one swing!

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4 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

Herb chopper

What did Herb ever do to you?

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Springs tend to be not quite as hard as we prefer the cutting edges on a knife-like object to be.  Leaf springs also tend to have an uncanny ability to regain the curvature they had when in the spring pack. 

For a bone chopper you may want a little softer edge than for a slicer, but still probably harder than the spring temper.  This may be a good place for an edge quench if you have a straight blade with a thick spine.  Otherwise I'd recommend going through the entire annealing, normalizing, quenching, etc. process and doing a differential temper at the end.

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There are several that I would refrain from chopping only because my wife might use the results for cooking.

Or a differential temper drawing from the spine to the edge.

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I suggest that you consider a 'cannel grind'  profile for bone chopping.

Cutting Knife profiles will not work as well.

And they might chip or worse,  shatter.

Just my two cents worth.

SLAG.

 

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Thank you Gents.

1 hour ago, ThomasPowers said:

differential temper

This is how I was going to go about it if the forge was up and running: heat, quench in oil, draw from spine till edge is purple. Or : heat, quench, and temper in oven at 550 deg for a couple of hrs twice. I was trying to avoid this, but if this is what it takes so be it. I could quick fab a roll of ceramic and stick a burner in it for a complete HT. But then I would've never asked the question.

33 minutes ago, SLAG said:

'cannel grind'

Thank you slag. Already done, I had it in mind when I started. I didn't know what it was called until you suggested it although I have been aware different edges for quite some time.

Still a lot of material to remove. It currently weighs 7ishlbs. Most of the heft is in the handle. It was cut from the end of the leaf which has a nice taper.

It is not completely straight but enough to index accurately.

IMG-4814.jpg

IMG-4821.jpg

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18 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

 

Klingon tongue depressor

 

 

11 hours ago, MCalvert said:

Orcish chef's knife?

Hehe, I know it ain’t pretty and is wholly overweight but I like her lines.
I was thinking of naming it Yhorm’s straight razor. Yhorm is a giant in Dark Souls lore. (A game)

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I like it. Yhorm's razor has a ring to it, don't it just. If you're going to chop carcasses then it should be great, if the grinding goes well anyway.. and provided there's no cracks! What about Cormoran's corn clipper?

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