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Casting Timmy

RV Hook Up Hoses

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I'm not sure what you call it, so I haven't been able to search this out very well.  I was starting a guided burner build with my local blacksmith club and am trying to learn what it takes to run two side arm burners.  I was thinking about hooking two 20lb tanks together using RV hook ups as they use the easy to screw on fittings to the tank.  

My question is if these easy screw on style fittings flow enough or not as I don't like the reverse thread hook up and idea of taking a wrench with a portable set up if I don't have too.  I'm good at loosing stuff and don't want to have to lift the whole mess into the back of the truck at once if I don't have too.

Also do these more typical gas grill/ rv connections have a name?  I do like these hoses as they have 1/4 NPT threads on the other end as well as gas gauges for each tank to know how much gas you have left.

Let me know if you have any experiences ro know what these are called and thanks for taking the time to read.

Tim

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I don't believe there's any difference in flow by using the easy screw on fittings, but I'm not 100% sure.  I question whether the regulator that comes with the kit will allow the flow you want for running a forge or furnace.

I used a hook up kit from Mr. Heater Inc.(Mfr #: F273737) and had to purchase a regulator separately, but it does use the left-handed threads.  You can always dedicate a wrench to that task and tether it to your portable setup with some wire or small diameter cable/wire rope to avoid misplacing or losing it.

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The hoses don't have a regulator, but a really simple gauge on them to show if the tank is full or not.  It looks like RV's have a regulator manifold that switches between tanks when the one gets empty. I'm not sure if it really if it allows drawing from both at the same time or not.

I have been reading here and other places, Zoeller's website calls out about different bottle fittings having different flow rates.  I can find the lefty screw into the internal threads labeled as full flow, but don't see that for the RV tank hook ups.

So far my idea is to run two flexible RV hook up hoses into a tee to a solid mounted regulator, after this regulator it will be lower pressure and ran through hard lines as the tanks will store in the bottom of the forge stand.  Alternatively I would have to get two high flow fittings and two high pressure hoses to go into the gas regulator, not a big deal.....but I kind of like the no tools method of hook up as well as the full or empty indicators of the RV hoses.

Zoeller does sell a hardline manifold kit, but really hoping a flexible one with these plastic nubs that use the outside threads of the propane tank flow good enough.  I'll probably buy a set and then convert if it doesn't work.....ideally if I knew a single 30lb would run two burners I could trade the extra hose off to recup some cost of the forge set up.

 

Q.  I fired up the forge with no problem it  put out a nice flame,  but then I went to fire it up again later on all I got was just a minimal flame (looked like a cooking flame)  with no pressure registering on the gauge.  As soon as I shut off flow to the burner the pressure would come right back up any ideas?  A.  It sounds like you are running a 20 # LP cylinder with an excess flow device , and that is what is causing you your problem.  When using a tank with an OPD valve with the excess flow device or check valve, it is better to light the forge, starting with all of the valves turned off.  Then turn the triangular hand wheel one complete (360 degree) then turn the forge on and light it up.  From here you can adjust slowly for a higher flame.   There are a couple of other things that can cause you to have similar problems, you need a full flow POL (tank fitting).  There are some that have an Excess Flow Valve built into them and there are others that have a fixed orifice, these will not work.  The other thing is to make sure that you have the proper LP regulator like the Fisher model number 67CH-743,  you can not use the regulators that they sell for gas grills and small appliances; they do not have the BTU ratings that you need.  After a forge is up and running and one of the burners starts to flutter, it may be so that the burner is sucking in exhaust fumes from the forge openings.

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On the files in Blacksmithing for Beginners I found this as part of the propane file:

Tank with OPD valve have A NON FREE FLOW LIMITER so if there IS NOT a POL fitting attached to tank there will not be any flow from valve…. You must use a fitting in POL valve of tank to cause anti-free flow valve to open and have “flow”.  Just because you open tank valve without a POL fitting attached and do not get a flow it does no mean the tank is empty. 
 
To test if tank is truly empty take screwdriver and open dip tube valve on side of tank valve, and IF there is NO HISS SOUND it is pretty good indicator that tank “may” be empty 

The local club meeting is later this month, I might ask some of the guys at the meeting about this.  Maybe it's a historical issue and no longer seen with the new valves.

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In some states, internal flow control valves are mandated on smaller fuel cylinders that are commonly used on gas barbecues. Before you even ask, yes they intended to be sneaky about that. Usually, moving up to a seven or ten lb. fuel cylinder is the easy fix. 

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