ThomasPowers Posted January 10, 2020 Share Posted January 10, 2020 Just because it was a coal forge doesn't mean it will be used with coal. Always helps to put the details in. Like will you be using the lever operated blower or hooking it up to a blow drier? That ball needs to be in contact with the fuel to work as a clinker breaker and it's orientation will adjust how the fire burns: large or smaller hot spot. I think the inset was to hold a bit more clay to allow you to form the firepot better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 As was said above. You don't need a grate. It's selfdefeating. It will take alot of forging to consume it. If you do that much work, you probably ought to have a much bigger forge and firepot. If anything, make a ring to fit in the depression that protects the handle and tab on your clinker ball would be nice. Make sure it doesn't cover any of the opening. And if those tabs stand proud of the forge, forge two groove's so the clinker ball won't bind when you use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Here is a thread about the ducks nest fire pot & clinker breaker. I found it by googling "ducks nest iforgeiron.com" as suggested in the Read This First thread. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/54447-how-should-i-modify-my-forge/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grouser Posted January 11, 2020 Author Share Posted January 11, 2020 On 1/9/2020 at 6:09 PM, Irondragon Forge & Clay said: Put in a drawer or box. You don't need it in that forge. The clinker breaker is the grate and the clay will make the ducks nest fire pot. i still used the grate,,before I saw all of your very helpful posts, will be removing it later,,, did I do the clay correctly,,, maybe more clay to make it deeper??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted January 11, 2020 Share Posted January 11, 2020 Good Morning, Claying the pan, doesn't mean you 'HAVE TO' use clay. You could use old clinkers or something like that. Yes, your claying looks adequate. The reason some suggested not to use the plate, is now there is no way for the clinker to get at the clinker breaker except through the small holes of the plate. Go ahead and use it, you will see why as you progress. Learning is never a straight line. Unless you are interested in a strate line, which Frosty lives for. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grouser Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 I got rid of my homemade grate. I finally understand the wisdom behind the clinker breaker being exposed to the fuel. And now that I see I can buy a new one if I consume my old one I feel good about the new setup. Check out the clay job on this picture. Is the ducks nest to Steep and small should it be larger at the top? Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grouser Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 (edited) On 1/8/2020 at 2:55 PM, ThomasPowers said: Not needed you already have a tuyere with a clinker breaker installed. ok,,, so is this ducks nest about the right size? Thinking I got the clay to thick and the walls to steep and to narrow at the top,,,, and. how soon can I build a hot fire to set the clay? Edited January 12, 2020 by Mod30 Resize large photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 (edited) You really need to stop jumping around with different threads on the same subject. It makes it hard to follow your progress and in time the different threads will become farther apart from each other. The ducks nest looks ok to me and you can always change it if it needs to be bigger. I will merge the two threads. Edited January 12, 2020 by Mod30 merge threads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozzy Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 I don't know if you mentioned the fuel you are using but charcoal typically likes to be a little deeper than coal...but the real answer is to try it now that you are settled and see if it gives you results you like. Since it's clay, if you decide to go bigger you should be able to easily shave it down after it is tried and tested. YOu may even find that you want more of an oblong shaped "nest". One other thing--from the image, it looks like you used pretty pure clay. Clay shrinks really badly and tends to crack. That's why normally one adds about 2 parts sand to 1 part clay. The sand helps prevent shrinkage and cracking by bulking things out with a stable material. Water under the bridge at this point but since claying doesn't last forever, you might consider it next time if I am correct in my visual assumptions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozzy Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 oops..posted the above without going to the second page of replies and it's too late to edit. Take for what it's worth now that the context has changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Size depends on: Fuel, Air and what you plan to use it to forging. A firepot for 1" stock can be a lot larger than one for 1/4" stock. One where you plan to do a lot of forge welding may need a larger size than one for forging folding knife blades or troll crosses or bottle openers. As suggested: use it and see how you want to modify it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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