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I Forge Iron

Can't achieve welding heat


rdennett

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I am finishing up a JABOD forge using anthracite in lieu of coke (can't beat the price and coke and bituminous are hard to come by), but while I can easily get steel to a good orange heat, that's as hot as it seems to get.  On the plus side, I don't burn up the steel, but I do want to be able to forge weld in this thing.  What variables are responsible for achieving welding heat in general?  I am using 2 hair driers in a Y plumbing fitting for air blast,  the cavity where the coal goes is about 6" deep (15 cm) and it's bottom is about 2" below the tuyere.  The coal is piled up about 2-3" above the point where it's level with the top of the sand.  Is the air too weak, the fire too shallow, the coal too coarse or what?  

 

Thanks,

Rob

Pic 3 hair driers

pic 5 tuyere pipe with quarter for scale

last pics show about as hot as it’ll get

material is 5/8” mild steel

 

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Have you tried to burn up a piece of steel to see if it can? I think you have too much air. Take the hair dryer on top out and use the open hole as a way to fine tune the airflow. Acorn size pieces of coal will burn hotter than big chunks.

Pnut

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Have you read the thread titled a simple sideblast forge. Just a box of dirt? It and some other jabod threads explain what you need to know to make a good sideblast forge. 

I use a jabod but I fuel it mainly with charcoal but I've used corn, anthracite, charcoal, bituminous and wood. They're pretty versatile when it comes to fuel. You only need to make slight changes. I liked charcoal best and anthracite wasa close second. My forge design makes coking the bituminous and corn difficult and the trench was a bit small for wood. 

Pnut

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4” below the hearth to the top of the tuyere and 4” on top of the hearth, adjust your air flow bring the hot spot just above the hearth. I melt hard fire brick, red brick and burn horse shoes in a jobod burning Rice coal for stoves. You can put nut coal on top and it will break up into smaller prices as it works it’s way down into the fire bowl. 

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Looks like the forge in the video was effective but did you notice the rocks after he used it to forge the leaf? They were cracked pretty badly. I wouldn't recommend trying to build a forge like that unless you know the rocks are safe to heat up. A spall can be dangerous. 

Pnut

 

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I do not know who breaks that coal for TSC but i think that instead of chest nuts they go by coconuts. Break that stuff up. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. i have whacked a piece or 2 and it shattered like glass pieces flying everywhere. I use an old metal tar bucket, place a few pieces in it and drop a 10# sledge into the bucket a few times. 

Like pnut said i have found that to much air seems to actually cool the fire down, especially when the fuel is a little large. I do not think it is as much air volume as it is air speed. Your air speed velocity should be about half that of an unladen Swallow. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

If you disconnect the dryer from the pipe you can just aim it at the pipe. Aim it more or less at the pipe for more or less air. Or a t fitting with an arm open to bleed off some air. I use an electric mattress pump and a ball valve.

Have you had much popping with the rice size coal?  The anthracite I used would pop more after it was broken into smaller pieces. 

Pnut

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He used an electrical junction box for the control/dump gate. The blower fed a duct and the blast pipe connected at a 90*, the access plate pivots on one screw. Opening and closing the access plate acts like a dump gate. I haven't tried it myself but it's a brilliant idea. If it's not a sticky it should be. Hopefully someone knows where the post is, it had pics and everything.

Is that what you're thinking of pnut?

Frosty The Lucky.

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Yes it is. I thought it was pretty ingenious. I bet it works well.  I've been looking every time I get a few minutes to spare but I haven't found it yet. I can't remember who posted it either or it'd be easier to find. I couldn't think of the term junction box for the life of me earlier. 

Pnut

 

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