Roy56 Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 (edited) I have a M1 carbine that wasn't in a stock a customer brought in. It isn't rusted just frozen up where it has sit for so long. I have all the Blacksmith solutions I can think of in the shop but, still I cannot get the trigger and hammer to move. Finally got the slide and magazine buttons to move. Safety and trigger till won't budge. Lane Custom Hydrographics Edited September 29, 2019 by Roy56 Name change. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Shimanek Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 Break Free Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roy56 Posted September 29, 2019 Author Share Posted September 29, 2019 I get some of the oddest requests for things to do. It is going to cost more for me to repair, restore and restock the rifle than one would cost at a pawn shop 7 hours ago, Steve Shimanek said: Break Free Thank you same guy brought me a FN49. No stock, parts missing with a schematic for a Enfield No 1 MK 3. Tool 3 days to convince him what he really had. But, as long as he wants to pay me, I'll keep looking for parts and putting them together Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dax Hewitt Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 Like most of the previous posters I use WD40 or GT85. Unfortunately the rules behind taking substances on site these days and needing full COSH assessments for everything don't allow home mixed concoctions. Way back when though on compressors with 2 foot diameter I would put a couple of inches of paraffin and diesel on the top of the cylinder and light it with a rag, it heated the cylinder and the oil mix got very hot and thin and worked it way right through. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerrogerD Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 Heat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 The rusted parts took a while to get that way. Do not get in a hurry to free them up and working. The parts will eventually break loose by using one or more of the above methods. Give which ever method you choose time to work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave51B Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 electrolysis....... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Irondragon ForgeClay Works Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 I find that a 50/50 mix of acetone & Dexron automatic fluid works very well on frozen rusted parts. It is on a par with Kroil which also works well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bud in PA Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 The muzzleloading forum that I belong to recommends EVAPORUST. I have not tried it as no one around here carries it. I Use PB Blaster and Naval Jelly. These guys are using it on antique flintlocks, and It supposedly doesn't leave a grey film like Naval Jelly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Irondragon ForgeClay Works Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 I use Evaporust on items like barrel's & reciever's, flat surfaces of all muzzleloader's & MILSERP arms I'm restoring. However to loosen frozen parts like bolts, trigger assembly's, locks etc. the mix of acetone & trans fluid or Kroil works better for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pnut Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 Have you tried Walmart? The one near me carries EVAP-O-RUST and naval jelly. I know different stores, different stock. I like ATF/acetone Pnut Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IronWolf Posted October 22, 2019 Share Posted October 22, 2019 P/B Blaster use it all the time in welding shop on farm eqt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yesteryearforge Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 KROIL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dasher Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 Not rust per se, but related, I,ve just today started to re new my old motorcycle, hasn,t run since the late 80,s, [ family , work, yada yada], apon pullng the carburettors, I discovered that the slides had seized in the throttle bodies, as they were only a 100 or so hrs used since the bodies were last sleeved, I,d like to save them. They are currently soaking in a wd 40 mix, but I was wondering if someone might have had this issue before. As the bodies are made of pot metal, any introduction of heat must be very judicious, any and all advice appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 Without seeing it in person I would say Kroil for rust. Let it soak in some for a week and check it. Try rapping on the pins holding them to help loosen them up. If it is really bad electrolysis may be in order. Do you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner? I saw an article in an old Shooting Times magazine about using one to free up a dug up Colt single action army that was just a wad of rust. Luckily Carbine parts are available, so as a last resort just swap it out. Dasher, try sticking them in an oven and run it up to around 120C-150C, and checking them as it warms up. Hopefully they are just varnished up, and not corroded. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Irondragon ForgeClay Works Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 I had slides stuck like that. Sprayed them with starting fluid (ether) The cold freed them up so I could take them out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dasher Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 Thanks big gun, I,m going to hold off putting them in the oven for now while I try a few other things, Irondragon's suggestion sounds logical, so that is next. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pnut Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 On 10/28/2019 at 8:07 AM, Dasher said: I discovered that the slides had seized in the throttle bodies Have you tried soaking in a solvent mixed with a penetrating oil? ATF and acetone comes to mind and try moving them every day or so. BGD's suggestion about the ultrasonic cleaner is a good idea. I'd put the ATF acetone mix in it and let it run for a few hours at least. The only problem might be covering the parts completely because most of them are for jewelry so tend to be on the smaller side. Pnut Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dasher Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 Update, I've freed 1, still 1 to go, no hurry, it will come eventually I'm sure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Heelerau Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 50/50 acetone and auto trans oil, works a treat, just have to leave it for a week or two sealed up so the acetone does not evaporate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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