JHCC

Horizontal bandsaw blade tires

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The old Craftsman 10" horizontal bandsaw I've been bringing back online was working great until earlier today, when the rubber tire on the drive wheel slipped off. Looks like it's in decent shape, and I'm planning to put it back on. Does anyone have any recommendations about specific adhesives to help keep it in place? (Commonly available at a local hardware store preferred.) Thanks in advance.

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Auto supply, "Amber Weather Striping Cement." It sticks stuff reasonably securely but can be removed with a little work. Good stuff, been using it since the late 60s though I've never cemented weather stripping with it.

Put it on thin as you can get it, it'll take a few minutes to: dry, set or whatever it does.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Is that like a contact cement that you apply to both surfaces, let dry, and stick together? Or you just smear on a thin layer and put the pieces together while it's still wet?

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Naw, it squeezes out of a tube like tooth paste. Squeeze a bead and spread it THIN with a putty knife or butter knife. One side is plenty, you don't even need complete coverage, it's stick stuff. You only really need to make the contact between the tire and wheel un slippery. Slip the tire on while it's still sticky and maybe put a wrap or two of tape on it to squeeze them together while the glue dries. 

It's very un technical stuff, basically squirt, stick and they're glued.

Frosty The Lucky.

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The local auto supply place didn't have any of the amber stuff, but they did have a 3M weatherstrip adhesive product that I got instead. It didn't work at first, but I think that was because I either didn't use enough or didn't let it dry enough first (or both). I reglued the tire and am letting it sit for a while before using it; I will update later.

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Unfortunately, I used up my last reattaching my anvil to its stand. 

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Update: after letting the glue cure overnight, I put the blade back on and fired it up. It worked fine slicing up some 2-1/2” 4140 round, but the tire looks like it’s still creeping off. 

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19 hours ago, JHCC said:

The local auto supply place didn't have any of the amber stuff, but they did have a 3M weatherstrip adhesive product that I got instead. It didn't work at first, but I think that was because I either didn't use enough or didn't let it dry enough first (or both). I reglued the tire and am letting it sit for a while before using it; I will update later.

I went and tested a whole bunch of different adhesives and the only one that worked well was the PM construction adhesive I had mentioned earlier. 

3M 5200,  Trim adhesive and all the others failed miserably in the testing. 

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Where did you mention that? I must have missed it. 

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this was my home group when I quit smithing. Still my home group but don't get there as much unless i'm stumped on something.
Well this will more than likely be the last installment to Betzy's saga.

I've reached the end of this machine as a project and have put it into the full use category.


So, here is a summary of how things worked
The glue for the tires.
The PL urethane construction adhesive didn't work really at all. Pulled right off and had tons of bubble under it. Took 3 days to harden.
The 3M super trim adhesive seemed to have adhered to the steel really well but didn't adhere to the urethane but a little. Came off a little harder than the PL construction stuff. 1day to harden.
The 3M 5200 Marine glue took 10 days to dry but had the best adhesion both to the steel and to the urethane tire.
The PL Masonry sealant adhered both to the steel and to the tire evenly. It wasn't as strong as the 3m 5200 but it dried in 2 days, didn't bubble, and was very flexible.
In overall adhesion strength the 3m 5200 Marine sealant adhesive was the clear winner.
biggrin.gif The PL Masonry in my opinion has show the most overall satisfactory results as to setup time, overall strength, and ease of use. biggrin.gif
And will be the one I will continue to use, unless I have a month or so for the adhesive to setup.
 

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I tried to reglue the tires on my wood cutting bandsaw to no avail, every adhesive I tried failed after running a while. I finally broke down and bought new tires and installed them. I was surprised to see how much smaller the new tires were in circumference compared to the old ones (really had to stretch them over the wheels) and the new directions stated not to use any adhesive. Been working fine now for several years.

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I've found for some reason on the wood variety it doesn't matter and the tires stay put. 

I know that the tires and glue I used have worked all these years and I never loosen the saw blades which I should.. 

I also do friction cutting of high carbon heat treated steels as well as files and such so the heat load on the bottom tire is amazing.   6000 bandfeet per minute. 

Masonry cement has worked perfectly. It has a little rubbery give to it but works perfectly. 

I had read so much stuff about setting them up right. 

new tires from DoAll were like 250.00 each back when I had checked on them.  The guy from Sulfur grove sent me extra tires for the one fee for 3.  

Anyhow, my Metal cut off bandsaw uses no tires at all and are flat with metal to metal contact with the wheels.  I forgot you were talking about metal cut off saw. 

Are your wheels completely flat with a back lip? 

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Yes, they are. There was a tire on the drive wheel when I got it, but none on the idler wheel. I found an old manual online (for a very similar model, not identical) that shows tires on both wheels. 

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