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Dalton.Rogers2134

What Exactly do I need?

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Hey all! So I know the mixed reviews about the devil’s forges, but I decided to get one anyways. It is my very first gas forge and im a little concerned about the refractory. The company supply about 250g of “refractory coating” I was planning on using but, is there something else I should put on top of that? Or should I purchase a different refractory? I have access big box stores and anywhere that ships cheap. 

 

Also the wool liner seems to not fit tightly into all 4 corners at the same time. All the videos of seen of the devils forge have them tightly in the corners. IM guessing that’s something that is fixed with the refractory?

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Welcome to IFI... Someone who has experience with the Devil forge will undoubtedly be along to answer your questions. In the mean time I suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST  If you edit your profile to show your location, it will help with getting good answers and you never know there may be members close to you to help you out.

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I have a 2 burner devil's forge with a door on the butt. I relined it because I was pretty much throwing whatever I could to the wall and see if it stuck. Here's the nitty gritty:

The "refractory" they give you, in my opinion, is garbage. There's no mention of what it is, what it's content is, etc. You're better off getting yourself some hydroPHILIC fumed silica off ebay or amazon (I'll link the one I bought if it's allowed) and mixing that with water and food coloring, and rigidizing the blanket on your own. Then you should coat with a known refractory, like kast-o-lite or satanite or any of the others mentioned throughout here and elsewhere on the interwebs. You can probably go about 1/2" thick on it and you'll be fine.

Then when it's all set and cured and you're almost ready to go, coat the top of the refractory with an IR reflective coating like Plistix. This is a thin coating, like coating the surface with a layer of paint.

This should get you to where you need to be. It sounds daunting, but it's really not that difficult if you can follow directions. The worst part is mixing up the kast-o-lite (if you go with that particular one) because to me it felt like it was too dry, but it held well.

There are a few other members here who have the same brand of forge, and I'm sure they'll chime in shortly with their experiences. I actually haven't had time to forge much, settling into a new job and all. But hopefully I'll pick the hammer back up soon.

One more thing, and it's something I'll be doing soon... Look into getting a 40lb tank or bigger for your propane. I find that the 20lb grill tanks just don't last me as long as I'd like them too. And since you said you have access to big box stores, you should be able to find propane refill places, which will always come out cheaper than an exchange.

IFI sells refractories at Gas Forge Refractories and Supplies

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The tanks are called "20 lb." tanks, but are usually only filled with 15 lbs. to be more correct.

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If you use the trade-in tank exchange you generally get less.  My propane company re-fills them to the correct amount---till the vent starts getting liquid.  I pay for the amount filled too.  MUCH BETTER DEAL!   Shoot they even came in on a closed day when I had an emergency fill up need...

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24 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

My propane company re-fills them to the correct amount---till the vent starts getting liquid.

That's the 10% valve intended to allow free space for expansion. If filled completely most 20lb. / 5gl. tanks hold 20 lbs. including the 10% space allowance. The tank itself usually tares at 17 lbs. though they vary a little. So, if you drop your full tank on a scale it should weigh around 37 lb. What you buy will always be less than 20 lbs. unless you drained it completely.

Yeah, filled thousands of the things when I worked service stations. I even went to a class about propane, having the cert card made it a LOT easier to change service station job. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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