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George, when I said shorted.. I meant he counted wrong the square footage.. He supplied 48 panels and I needed 56. 

I don't think the guy who I talked with on the phone accounted for the loss of the 6" in both length and width.  It takes exactly 8.37 panels per run.  I bought 9 panels when I was there just to have enough..   I added a little extra here and there.. 

Yes indeed coming down to the close..  Thank goodness too.  I'm just about pooped out..  Now it will be getting the opening framed in and then finish off the end wall and trim on the front section. 

Yes, I did account for the power hammers and the forging stations..  

the area under the power hammers will be 6" of 4000psi concrete with mesh reinforcement.  The area where the forge stations are 5.5 " thick of the same 4000psi mix.

It was interesting seeing how at each corner where all the panels come together they were about 3/4" stacked up. 

these were the heavy panels to so nearly a 1/4". 

I had thought about putting in regular foundations for the hammers but ideally or time frame wise it was not in the cards to do a separate one..  When the time comes and the hammers get used I might just mount the hammer and then cut a notch all around it to stabilize it on it's own.

The 200Lb hammer has a larger and heavier base as it was a factory repair for a cracked frame so it adds about 4" of height and extra support as it has a larger foot print.  

we will just have to see.  If the whole building shakes then I'll isolate it. 

It was interesting seeing the 6" of cement working it's way over the floor.  


You guys are the best. :)    

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Frosty Oh, my gosh is it.. I've been running on fumes so I am not completely decompressing and it will take about 2 or 3 days to get back to normal. (what ever that is).. 


about 41 yards if it's averaged to 5.5" thick, and 40x60ft.  Internal area is less than the 40x60 so take or leave. 

I will ask tomorrow what the total count was I could hear them talking and taking tally.  I should have asked today. 

I asked for a finish that is pretty easy to sweep but is not slippery when wet.  To this lay persons eyes it looks amazing. 

It is 6" where the welding grate is.  6" where the car lift will go and between 5.5 and 6 where the anvils will go at the work stations. 

The center is right about 5+ with one shallow spot about 4 3/4".. 

From what I can see everything stayed where it was supposed to as they floated the floor the openings became clear as did the welding ground plate. 

I will have to look for a couple of them as they might have sunk some..  I had to lift them up and put rocks under the arms to have them at the right height. 

They are coming back tomorrow to cut in.. 

My hands are all cut up and my knees are sore from doing wire and ties.  Was tough getting those mesh panels in and ties with wire before I was over taken by cement. Hands are swollen too which is typical with hard use.. 

I also had a little pad by the back extraction pipe poured with the extra cement. 

 

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No break this morning.. Mark came this morning and put in the crack faults.  I then proceeded to open up all the pockets and fume extraction and welding ground ibeams. 

I could not find 1 of the fume extractor pipes..  I did not look that hard and will be able to find it via all the photos. 

I gozinta was turned and 1 other was moved out of plumb.  I have not checked for level on the ibeams.. 

they actually made the middle sections from front garage door to back a little higher so I bet it's pretty close to 6" thickness every where. 

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Duck tape works great at closing off the openings..  

I would suggest putting grease in the threads of the fittings then putting the tape on. 

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LOL.. thats funny..   Now is when the easy work begins..  

Now I will be back in my element so it becomes just throwing some money at steel to make forges and such.. 

Once the electric panel goes in the shop will basically be functional in just a few days. 

This electrical is the last big hurdle. 

I need to borrow an excavator  and then fork over the cash for connection, main switch and 2, 200amp panels.  Again, once these are connected then I can start to run an outlet for the welders and machinery for fabrication of the items.. 

Then it will be moving again. 

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Steve. I'm looking at high bay lights that can be dimmed. 

Frosty,  I have taken off this week from shop build.  I've done a few little things like spread stone and clean out the holes from the tape. 

I also called the garage guy which turns out the foundation is 10" thick and the door opening is 8" so it's a no go unless I put in a spacer since the door will run into the foundation. 

This coming week I will get back to work with getting the bottom openings and the main doorway cut in. 

I am looking at a 3" thick insulated door.  12X12

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Only a week? I prescribe some hot tub time, maybe catch a tan. Sipping a warm toddy watching the sun set is also highly recommended. 

I'm not visualizing your 10" foundation and 8" door opening problem. Is this the personnel door or roll up? 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Can't get in to much rest with winter around the corner.. Besides I need to start moving stuff into the shop and can't do a good job until the front is done and the back is buttoned up. 

I took off 1.5 days from shop and work..  I was spent.  I worked yesterday with 8 horses. 

All the equipment and the car lift needs to be moved in. 

The foundation is 10" thick..  The 12x12 opening is only 8" thick at the jamb.. So it is 2" short on the inside of the building. 

I'll take a photo tomorrow.. 

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Sorry,  I meant to take a photo but got hung up with a walk, lunch and then looking for one of my climbing ropes until I got requested to go for a walk with my lovely sweetie and the puppy dogs. 

I will shoot one tomorrow.. Which I go to CT to grab some parts for the manlift.  New to me riser cylinder and master cylinder for the manbasket.  550.00 for both off a sister machine. I've got some rust on both.  the master cylinder has been leaking and it's only a matter of time before the riser cylinder starts to leak.. 

 

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Reminds me of the contractor who built the first "nice" section of my shop; he told me a contractor's joke: "When does concrete start to crack?"; "When it's still in the cement truck!"   

Nice guy; I told him I was more on use than looks and would be happy to have used stuff in the build if it was good or better than new stuff---and cheaper.  He did a thicker slab for me and added in another truss than usual---they were modified from a build that didn't go through. He also sourced two 10' x 10' roll up doors that had been ordered but never picked up and were just sitting in their original crates for 10 years---thicker steel than is commonly used nowadays...

Unfortunately the "pretty shop" is hidden by my Frankenstein addition to the front of it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thomas.  I'd love to have a frankenshop of sorts..    At least it's interesting. 


I think interesting is far more pleasing they pretty or new looking.  

I think even a new construction made to look old if using the old techniques is excellent.  

My main concern is always about fires.      So, the dream shop was either stone or metal.. 

I could not afford stone and so metal it is.. 


So, little bit of an update. 

I was so burnt out with the heavy build of walls, insulation, roof, all the prep for floor (wiremesh, gozintas, vac system) that I really needed time to decompress.  Besides the weather here has been terrible.  We have had 2 snow storms.  1 was 6" and it stuck for 3 days and then had another with 2 inches which is still sticking around some.  

I don't do well in the cold since my regular job is outside in the wet and cold.  Anyhow, today I got back at it and started to do some things that needed to be done. 

The guy who's building i copied had some spare metal left over so he brought it over for me to use.  And luckily he has some longer pieces so I was able to weld a few together to get some lengths of needed. 

The framed opening where the doors were going to go need to be filled in and I started that process today. Part of the deal is figuring out how to get a good tight fit with metal that is also accurate on Non accurate openings. 

I think I have it figured out using long enough pieces bent at a 90 each end  with 2 tabs on the bottom and use the top as a receiver with the tabs on the inside. 

this way I can fit the pieces, put mastic sealant under it and then lift or expand it slightly and screw it in place. 

This will leave a great surface to screw into for the sheets and make for a strong bottom wall on it's own.  I will then add some center braces.. 

Took me awhile to figure out how to proceed.. 

Gettting this figured out now i can move onto the back wall. 

I also decided to close up the back door completely..  I do love that in the afternoon the warm sun streams in..  Because I want the shop to be easy to heat I am painstakingly doing things to seal up and insulate everything. 

The front garage door will be 3" thick insulated with an R28. 

Not quite sure how to proceed on the workmans door..  I was thinking of making something custom about 4" thick of foam with steel facings. 

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It's nice to have a smithy where the dead leaves don't pile up inside it; used to be a smell I'd dread as hot bits seem to home in on them. (I had a 1920's detached garage I forged in in Ohio.  Wooden structure in very poor state; but it kept the anvils dry. (except when a cut off flew into a dark corner and I smelled leaves burning and I'd slosh a full bucket or water back there just to be sure...)

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You were kidding about the dead leaves right.   The shop since it has no doors on it, is covered on the floor.  LOL.. 

I know that feeling of "Where is the smoke which = fire" coming from... 

I used to keep a hose handy for just such a case.  For some unknown reason I used to find the smoke was an old paper towel that was soaked previously with water and now it's ended up in some place under neath that 300lbs piece of something or other or at the bottom of the metal stack and for some reason once wetted paper towels when dried well for 6 month to a year seem to burn or smolder very well. 

 

 

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At least with a metal and concrete shop you don't worry as much about things catching on fire later.  1920's, (had dates branded on the walls from when there was a woodstove in it...100+ year old house), wooden structure with decades of old oil crudded on the floor in places.  I was actually surprised that I forged out of it for 15 years with no structure fires---though the bar catty cornered across the alley caught fire twice during that time.

Are you selecting some of the best leaves to put in your pattern book or use as stencils on a board for future use?

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