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Hardening 4140 need advice


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55C is the max you can get.

Agree with Steve, that this isn't the best plan.  The only way it could be better would be to have the I-beam on end with the 4140 capping it. But you won't have that much mass under the hammer being it is only 3/4" thick.

Look through the improvised anvil thread for better options and places t search.

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Doubling them won't help unless you can forge weld them into a single piece. While a person can do some forging on it it's a long way from being a good working anvil. 

I'm afraid I have to recommend you put your hunting cap back on. The improvised anvil section has a lot of good workable ideas. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Back to the drawing board. Found out a friend works in a machine shop and can cut out a 3" piece of plate to any shape. What do ya think of this setup....

I'll be grinding the horn down of course. Anvil should weigh around 85 pounds. I'll be using for bladesmithing and basic blacksmithing - nothing super heavy.

20190620_154106.jpg

20190620_154056.jpg

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That looks like it should work. My only suggestion would be to maybe skip the hardy and pritchel hole in the anvil. You may be better off with a portable hole made into another plate. There's not going to be much material around the hardy and it would save the trouble of cutting a heel into the anvil.

Pnut

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I agree with pnut. A portable hole for a hardy hole made the same height as your anvil face will also serve as a helper for long stock. Not cutting in the heal under the hardy hole makes the sweet spot on your anvil significantly larger. More sweet spot is good. You can make saddle bridge to draw over say you want to make fork tines without having to bend the ones you're not forging out of the way. A piece of channel iron with a couple tabs to keep it in place on the anvil face works a treat. A bolster plate from say 1/2" plate with different size holes in it lets you punch holes without the pritchel hole or damaging your anvil and punches. 

I'm no fan of horns, the more I learned the less I used them but they are a good variable radius fuller. You just have to adapt to the work wanting to curve when you draw on it.

Your drawing looks pretty good, not what I'd have made but it's going to be yours. Yes? Few things feel as good as using a tool you've designed or better made yourself. 

Hang onto the 4140 It's good trading stock and you'll come up with something sooner or later, probably about 5 minutes after you trade it. THAT'S a blacksmith tradition for you! :huh:

Frosty The Lucky.

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haha! so true frosty! i am going to take you up on the idea of not cutting the heal, keep the mass and make a bolster instead.  BTW the forge i am using was made from an old ceramic chimney flue liner, some kaowool and high temp mortar. working ares of the forge is 5" x 5" x 24"  I built a double burner after researching, studying, reading and of course consulting YouTube. I used a burner design that I believe is attributed to you after what I read in the video description. you have my thanks sir.

Forge1.jpg

Forge2.jpg

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Good evening,

Something else you could do if you have a large enough piece of plate is to set it up on edge to get maximum mass under the hammer, and put a series of different radiuses or dies into it.  Still no heel or horn, but there's ways around that as above.  Google Brian Brazeal anvil and you'll find an image easily enough, probably on iforgeiron somewhere. Here for example... 

 

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I am happy for you that you were able to get it done.  If it were me, I'd have left it alone as a rectangle and stood it up the long way. 

Mass is your friend so cutting things off of it removes some of that mass.   anvils were shaped the way they were for convenience but with modern welding equipment, the possibilities are endless.   Instead of trying to mimic an anvil I would have just used the block and refined my skills till a real anvil was needed for the other facets listed. 

I am happy for you that you got it to where you want it, just the same. 

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