DanJohnson Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 First of all, I’m a total newb…to the site and blacksmithing. I’ve been reading posts on the site for quite a while and have enjoyed reading along and have enjoyed the feel and depth of the discussions. I have read the forum rules and recommendations for getting a along with the community. It all sounds good. I’m a long time woodworker and equipment restorer but have wanted to tinker with blacksmithing for some time. I have done a lot of metal working to support my restorations and in my job (I’m a mechanical engineer with almost 40 years of experience). I’d like to delve into forged hardware, maybe cutting tools, and wood/metal mixed media furniture. I’m actively looking for ABANA classes and experienced smiths in my area. Enough about me… I’ve been watching anvils for some time and have been alarmed by rising prices and I’m in an area where they are hard to find. As a result, I went ahead and bought an anvil this weekend that was relatively close. I suspect I paid too much for it but I’ll survive that injustice. It weighs 125 lb. Its top is pretty flat but has been messed with a little. The guy I bought it from swears he only cleaned up the top with a flap wheel and I believe him. He treated the body with linseed oil (thus the slight gloss) which I plan to remove. I feel pretty certain it saw some localized repair welding and light grinding at some point in its past. It has great rebound (80% - 90%) and rings nicely. I’m 90’sh percent sure it’s a Kohlswa. I’ve attached photos below. The “MADE IN SWEDEN” stamping is very clear. The crown in the star is also clear but the star is 6-pointed in lieu of the typical 5-pointed stars I’ve seen on most. There is something to the left of the star that almost looks like another stamp but I haven’t figured it out. I have carefully searched the site for the answers to the below before pinging the collective intelligence. Being new, it’s possible I did not search carefully enough. I’m slow but I’ll learn. If you need/want additional photos to help assessment, please advise and I'll add them. Several questions: 1. Do y’all agree with my assessment it’s a Kohlswa? 2. If so, any idea of its approximate vintage? 3. If I later decide to pay someone to fly-cut or surface grind the top, how deep dare I go? Any idea of the approximate depth of the hardness? I seriously doubt I’ll ever do this. Just would like to know. While not perfect, the anvil is way nicer than I have any right to own considering my knowledge and experience. Looking forward to learning enough to utilize it properly. Thanks in advance for reading along and weighing in. Regards, Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 Anytime you get the hankering to have that face ground or milled, take a 3# hammer and place your off hand on the anvil and hammer on it till the urge to grind or mill the anvil's face subsides. All it needs is the regular application of hot steel on it! Now you may want to round the edges some more before using it as they are NOT supposed to be sharp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 I've seen folks remove a lot of material with a flap wheel. As Thomas said don't do any further damage to the face. It would help if we knew where in the world you are located to help with the Id, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanJohnson Posted May 27, 2019 Author Share Posted May 27, 2019 Urge to resurface completely managed... Also, profile updated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 BTW... Welcome to the insanity. I'm sure the Swedish anvil guys will be along shortly to give more info about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cedar Crest Forge Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 Chances are it is cast steel, which means the hardness most likely goes deeper than the normal welded tool steel plate anvils. Have you tried flipping it on its side and doing a few rebound tests? (maybe with a board or two underneath to keep it level). Is it still 90% an inch or two down from the top? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 Mine has the words MADE IN SWEDEN as yours does. Above that is the word KOHLSWA, but I can't see that on your anvil. Can you put some chalk or flour over those letters to see if there is any m0re? And please don't grind it. That is a lovely anvil just waiting for work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 Hey Dan, have you seen this thread? It may shed a little light on your anvil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 I love mine, just leave the oil on it and hammer away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanJohnson Posted May 27, 2019 Author Share Posted May 27, 2019 IF&C, Yep, I saw and read that post. It was informative. I'll be pounding on the anvil soon. Trying to decide on a forge...coal or propane. I'd still like to understand it better. That kind of stuff really interests me. I doubt I need to explain that to any of you. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 If you are in a location that gets a lot of burn bans, propane is more "inspector friendly". I've been on campouts where my propane forge had to be sited and signed off on by the county fire marshal. (Also in suburbia; it's hard to shut down a forge and yet allow thousands of propane grills...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Brandl Posted May 30, 2019 Share Posted May 30, 2019 I just had the face on my Brooks milled down, and it was pretty xxxxxx hard at .070" deep, and I figure I could have gone down another .030" or .040" and still been fine, what with it being cast steel. Not saying yours would necessarily be the same, but you look like you would need to take way less off than I needed to on mine. I really like most Swedish made anvils. Almost as much as Brooks', haha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 30, 2019 Share Posted May 30, 2019 43 minutes ago, Bob Brandl said: but you look like you would need to take way less off than I needed to on mine. Dan doesn't need to remove ANY useful life from his anvil, it's gorgeous and will give him and his decedents generations of good service. Neither did you Bob but it's your anvil to do with as you wish and large enough to waste a few centuries if that makes you happy. However when you give such daft advice to someone who doesn't have the thousands of hours experience you claimed. Expect a response from folk who have been doing this decades longer than you. Frosty the Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 All this talk about Kohlswa … here's a picture of mine. Looks very similar to the one Dan posted above. Can't see any more markings other than KOHLSWA, SWEDEN. No dates or weights or anything. It has a wonderful rebound; close to 90% I would say. I have done nothing to it except work it everyday. People often ask how old is the anvil, but I can only guess - maybe early 1900s?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanJohnson Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 Ausfire, Nice Kohlswa anvil in it's natural habitat. I've not seen anything helpful relative to coming up with a vintage on these anvils. It'll turn up at some point. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 Yes, I guess it's hard to date with no numbers to go by. I thought the link that Irondragon gave to the 'Swedish Star' thread above was interesting. I would like to have seen more of the Kohlswa catalogue page referred to there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanJohnson Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 I did find this the other day. Apparently, North Star imported Kohlswa anvils. My 125# Kohlswa conforms fairly well to the dimensions in the table. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanJohnson Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 BTW, the clip above is from the Janney, Semple, Hill & Co. Catalog from 1934. They were a big supplier of hardware, dry goods, etc. (along the lines of the old Sears & Roebuck) located in Minneapolis. So.....that's where I'm going to date mine until told otherwise. I feel pretty certain mine is a North Star (aka Kohlswa). Again, open to changing my opinion on that when shown better data than I've come up with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 Solderfors and Kohlswa were foundries not primarily anvil manufacturers. Anvils were a sideline I think to prevent wastage of extra melt. Either company was more than happy to put whatever logo, information, advertisement, etc. a commissioner paid for. Frosty The Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted June 2, 2019 Share Posted June 2, 2019 Thanks for the info, Dan. I'll get the dimensions on mine and see how it compares. Mine has a faceplate though, unlike the aforementioned one solid block of Swedish Charcoal Steel. (What is charcoal steel anyway?) So the faceplate anvils were made before the North Star anvils? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanJohnson Posted June 2, 2019 Author Share Posted June 2, 2019 You know your anvil better than anyone but I'd be surprised if it has a hardened face. Didn't think the Swedes ever did that. I think charcoal steel relates to the process of the iron making. In most modern iron making, coal is used. In some processes, charcoal was used. Apparently, it helps create a tough and durable iron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 Swedish cast steel anvils were cast in steel molds and quenched under a flume when broken out, temper was by residual heat. They had it to a fine science. They don't have a face plate it's a monosteel casting but the face is harder than the body to a depth I've never been curious enough to test. A chisel will blunt on the face of mine but there are a few chisel marks on her body so the body isn't AS hard. The horn isn't as hard but they weren't directly under the flume as I recall the articles. Frosty The Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 Charcoal steel is famed for its lower sulfur content. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 It looks like my Kohlswa has a hardened plate but perhaps the line I can see is just the transition from the hardened section to the rest of the body. I accept that the Kohslwas were cast steel. The dimensions of mine are not exactly as in the table above. A = 4" B= 14 1/2 inches, C = 24", Hardy = 1'', Pritchell = 1/2". Closest to 125 lb I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 The face plate line is a marketing artifact. When cast steel anvils were beginning to take market shares forged anvil makers started making a point that cast anvils couldn't be high quality, they didn't have a high carbon face plate. Advertising couldn't adequately make the case the entire anvil was high carbon so there was no need for a welded face plate. Blacksmiths wanted to SEE a face plate so Soderfors, et.al. gave them one with a in cast line. If you want to know for sure have it mag fluxed, even a good forge weld joint will show clearly. Frosty The Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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