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Dressing my anvil stand (read stump)

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Found an oak log with the correct height and size to mount my anvil a few days ago. Am looking for tips on good ways to remove the bark. Also what would be a good finish to use to seal the log to prevent rot. I live in florida and so humidity is always high. I've already figured out the mounting once I have it cleaned up. 

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I'm not sure if you could slip the bark with a spud but it might be worth a try. I've only done it to fresh cut logs but it might work.

Pnut (Mike) 

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Consider banding the log after finishing.

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A spud? It's only been down a few days. Was a storm drop the power company cut up to clear some lines. 

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A bark spud looks kinda like a big wide chisel. You get it under the bark and work your way down the log or around the log. I've seen it done both ways.  If the log is still wet it should come off fairly easy. Maybe in one piece. If you seal the ends it'll keep the log from wanting to split from drying too quickly. 

Pnut (Mike)

Oh yeah you need to score the bark along the length before you pry the bark off.

If you search bark spud on your search engine of choice you'll see pictures. They sell em at tractor supply company

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Sweet. Ty much. So exciting. I had no idea oak was so dense, it's going to add a lot more mass to my anvil.

Little instant karma. The tree went down on an older neighbor's property. The power company cut it up and left it so I went to help them out and haul some off and stack the rest out of their yard. All the other pieces were 14-16 inches. This was the only large chunk and it was.the perfect 22" I needed with a cross section that's just a bit larger then my anvil base, and the cuts are almost dead parallel. 

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It's amazing how much a fresh log weighs isn't it? I never think they're going to be as heavy as they are. I had to move a bunch of pieces years ago from a very old oak tree and two of us couldn't lift them. Had to use a an engine hoist to load them into the truck. 

The last time I used a spud we made shingles out of the bark we slipped for my friends roof over his woodpile. We spent all summer making shakes to reshingle the roof on his cabin also but a froe was used for that. Tedious work for sure.

Pnut (Mike)

Good luck and Glenn's advice to band it after finishing will keep it from splitting from use. Good idea.

 

 

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If the stump will be set directly on the ground consider applying wood preservative to the end and soak it into the end grain

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It'll keep it from drying out too fast and cracking and splitting on the ends.

Pnut (Mike)

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If the wood is freshly cut, it will probably peel fairly easily: the spring sap in the cambium layer (right under the bark) has probably loosened it up. 

Sealing the ends is a good idea, but remember that that will only slow the shrinkage, not stop it entirely (especially in oak). Frankly, it may end up splitting anyway, but that shouldn't be a problem in the long run. I would second Glenn's recommendation to put bands on it, and would further suggest that they be the kind that can be tightened as the wood shrinks.

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all good suggestions. a draw knife works for bark removal as well. No matter the tool, Do remove the bark.

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Thankyou all. I'll have to go check the woodshop and see if I have a draw knife out there. Still so many tools to go through. 

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